Was reading fall Motorcader mag and on page 46 I read the statement "The Boost switch puts all batteries in parallel so you can use it to charge the engine batteries. A BEP sensor can be used on the boost solenoid such that it allows charging the engine batteries while in storage."
I am interested in this but haven't a clue what a BEP sensor is or what it does. Can someone enlighten me about this procedure...pros, cons, good idea or bad. What would be involved? Would it be a safe way to charge engine batteries while coach is stored? Thanks for any info!
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289962%7C2289976&id=2196872
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html)
These 2 products appear to do the same thing. We have the Ultra TRIK-L-START installed. It attaches to the battery isolator and transfers power from the house batteries to the starting battery to keep it topped off. House batteries are charged by our inverter/converter built in battery charger - I think. I believe you could also pull the battery cables from your starting battery or install an inline disconnect switch.
(Hope you are doing well.)
BEP MARINE Digital Voltage Sensing Relay (DVSR) 12/24V | West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--digital-voltage-sensing-relay-dvsr-12-24v--14152185)
Does anyone have detailed directions on how to hookup this unit (BEP) to a coach? Maybe even a diagram?
Bob
I found detailed instructions at the websites provided by Scott and Stump. Looks pretty simple but makes me wonder...if the inverter/converter charger can constantly charge the house batteries without harming them, then why not just flip the boost switch and let the he inverter/converter charger also charge the engine batteries? All are AGM's
Thats what I do when I'm plugged in at the house.I dont know if it's good or bad but it seems to work.
The bep will disconnect the start batteries, if your charger inverter fails or you lose shore power . The boost switch will remained closed if you lose shore power and both sets of batteries will run down equally overtime.
Possibly leaving the boost solenoid activated will shorten its life. It is a electromagnetic switch. 100% duty cycle may not apply for days at a time.
I understand about if the charger fails . I do this at home in my driveway so if it breaks I'll know pretty soon. As far as boost solonoid longevity I'll be the guinea pig and let's see how long it holds out.So far so good its been about a year use . When I start the main engine I shut off boost switch.
For about two years, I engaged the "Boost" switch to maintain charge on the chassis batteries when the coach was on shore power. I now have a Battery Tender 5 amp smart charger connected to the chassis batteries. It maintains appropriate charge levels on the chassis batteries when 120VAC is available to the outlets on the platform for the bed.
I prefer a system that does not use diodes as the gateway from the house batteries to the chassis batteries. Diodes introduce a voltage drop of about 0.6 volts.
Thanks for all the replies. I now understand the what and why. Looks like all the suggestions have merit and are simple to implement. Gotta love this forum 😃!
After I added solar power, I stopped using the boost switch (and later the Battery Tender) to keep my chassis batteries charged. I installed a Blue Sea voltage sensitive relay (VSR) in place of the diode isolator. This is a dual-sided VSR, meaning it senses charging voltage on either side and closes the relay. This way, charging from any source (solar charger, inverter charger, engine alternator) causes both banks of batteries to receive charge.
I've had it installed about two years now, and am completely satisfied with it's performance.
Definitely the best way to go.
What is the part number of the one you used Tom? Looking at their website, this us the one I would choose.
ML-ACR Automatic Charging Relay with Manual Control - 12V DC 500A - Blue Sea... (http://www.bluesea.com/products/7622/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A)
Eliminates the boost solenoid... but expensive! There are so many ways to get this functionality, I am still on the fence.
Don
Oops, only installed a year ago. First real use was in Q last year,
SI-ACR Automatic Charging Relay - 12/24V DC 120A
7610
Automatically combines batteries during charging, isolates batteries when discharging and when starting engines
Features
Protects sensitive electronics by temporary isolation of house loads from engine circuit during engine cranking
Designed for 12 or 24 volt systems
12/24 volt auto ranging voltage input
Hermetically sealed contacts/vaporproof
Ignition protected—safe for installation aboard gasoline powered boats
Supports high-output alternators up to 120 Amperes
Dual sensing
Optional Features
Start Isolation allows temporary isolation of House loads from Engine circuit during engine cranking to protect sensitive electronics from sags and spikes
Remote LED remotely indicates ACR states - requires optional LED
Two rarely found but important features of this relay are 120A capacity and dual sensing. Most are lower current rated and only sense charge voltage on one side.
I found mine on eBay. Current price is $74.95 shipped.
Hey Tom -
Why did you decide upon the one you got and do you know the difference between the Ultra TRIK-L-START and the one you purchased and installed. Inquiring minds. ?? ;D
My guru buddy is installing the sea land on all his coaches. Was doing a Newell mid door when I was there a few days ago. Wants to retro fit mine. He mentioned the 500 amp. And both ways.
Replaces the diode isolator, no voltage drop. 120A capacity.
Bi-directional. Charges the house battery from the alternator and the chassis battery from the inverter/charger or solar.
Thanks Tom. :D