Hello,
We are having some electrical problems with our 99 U270. I think it probably is related to this problem - so mentioning it for reference.
After sitting unplugged idle for 3 weeks, we found that our coach batteries were completely dead, even though we used the master OFF switch at the door entrance. We did not have our entry door locked. We put a battery charger on the house batteries, and when I came out to see if the generator would fire up, I found that the front door had locked itself. :( :o Another small (huge) complication is that we do not have the bay keys - we have been relying on the key fob to lock & unlock the coach. SO, I tried the key fob, and it opened everything except the entry door. Does anyone have a trick or tip on how to get that dumb entry door to work. You can hear the actuator working, but it isn't unlocking the latch. The replacement keys won't be here for a few days. The key we had made turns part of the way, but not all the way.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions & advice.
:)
Maybe try pushing in/up on the door while activating the fob to see if the door might be sagging, causing the lock to drag. The actuator might not have the power/strength to overcome the resistance if that's the case. That might also be what is only allowing the key to turn part of the way?
Or, send in someone up through the engine compartment who can unlock it from the inside. (If your coach is set up to allow this.) But that wouldn't work if the bed automatically latches when lowered. Mine latches, but it is quite flimsy as someone previously tried to open it without pulling back on the latch, so the screws holding the one side are pretty well stripped out of the wood. If you're determined enough, it may be worth pushing that latch out of the holes and just repair it later.
Both great ideas! I'm going to try them when I get home. Thank you!!
Have had the door lock not opening, so since I never lock the drivers side window, I opened it, and hoisted the wife thru the window and she opened the door. Simple and does work if you can get someone inside thru the window.
Good Luck
Marnie, do you have the schematics for your coach?
The 12V salesman switch doesn't kill all 12V loads, only certain ones, generally those related to the interior. If you have a drawing B-2126 look on the left and see what is connected to the 12V disconnect. For example, in our coach it's the interior 12V panel, our vacuflush toilet, the seats, storage bay lights, and AquaHot.
What's not disabled even when that switch is off are the aux compressor, door locks, fridge control panel, LP and CO monitors, and a few other things so there will still be a draw on the system (especially that aux compressor if it runs). If you have that schematic you'll see that not all the relays are connected through that disconnect switch - there's a break about halfway in the "stack".
Hi MarnieZ,
The master switch at the door does not disconnect the chassis battery, so it will be drained after 2 weeks on mine too because of the 12 Aux Air Compressor.
The key fob only active the dead lock. I assume the bay key you mention is the one for the door (and all the bay doors) at the door handle and you don't have the key for that. That left the dead lock with the alarm system could cause the door to get stuck. Tothetrail got good suggestion to push the door while activate the key fob.
Hope you can get in.
Michael
I will send you a PM with how to get in