Just finished recaulking the bath skylight. It had 2 kinds of caulk, a soft type around the outer edge which seems to be the same as FT used to caulk the windows and the type that oozes out with time. Nearer the inner part of the skylight was a white rubber like type of caulk. As it for the most part it stayed stuck to the coach and not the skylight, I left it and just replaced the outer stuff with a tape type of caulk I got at C World, similar to the same stuff that was there. Anyone have any idea why FT used 2 types?
I never have liked that skylight. The roof is curved and it is flat on the bottom, so the fit is not very good. And it just looks like something that should not be on a motorhome. In addition it is larger than the opening into the bath.
I had also recently removed and re sealed it. I also noticed that the roof curv did not match the skylight, which is straight. Used the same caulk tape that c world carries. I doubled the thickness on the high side to compensate for the difference. That stuff seems to do a good job, hasn't leaked in the Oregon rain. I used a tube caulk around the upper lexan part. I think the caulk tape would have worked there also.
Not sure why FT used two different kinds.
I tried very hard to remove my skylight. The white stuff came off, the roof and the frame. The grey stuff under the frame, would not release the frame! At the risk of bending or destroying the frame, I gave up. So I replaced the 50 or so screws, and resealed the heads and the lip with self leveling Dicor white. The Dicor tube was still good the second day, and I filled what I missed or sagged. All seems to be good again.
If I need to redo, next time, I will have a new unit in hand, before forcing the old frame off the roof.
As we have all found out the frame of the skylight does not match the roof line at all, and FT used dollops of sealant that eventually squidges out.
Rather than remove the skylight, or even try, I cut off the bits of sealant that had squidged out with a razor blade, masked the roof about an inch away, and then the frame before spraying 3 coats of Flexseal all around it. Flexseal is very thin as it comes from the can so take your time with the various coats. but, being so thin it flowed in under the frame where there were voids.
Lets see how long it will last??
Speedbird 1
I wish there wasn't a skylight. It just heats up the inside in the summer.
I'd like to remove it. But then there is the problem of having a big hole in the roof!
Krush, remove top frame, remove Plexiglas, install some Refectix or other opaque insulation, put a piece of opaque plastic or aluminum, silicone seal things together and put frame back and voila, you have your wish there wasn't a skylight.
Krush,
OR, no problem.
Any shop that reupholsters furniture has raw, 2", 3" (or more) thickness, seating-surface, dense, flexible foam on the cheap. Roughly cut to the shape of the skylight opening, both light and heat are blocked. Upholstered in moisture repellant fabric, it further becomes aesthetic and water resistant, all for much less than the cost of removing the skylight and filling the hole. This doesn't keep the caulking intact but it does preserve the potential buyer pool, in case the next owner prefers a "light and bright" shower.
Neal
PS: Use the unupholstered scraps (that are left over) to make plugs for the various sewer hose plus electrical cord door opening combinations. A drop or two of raw peppermint oil on the foam makes the plug rodent and insect proof and the plugs provide excellent wind chill and temperature barriers in freezing conditions.
It rained yesterday and I didn't see any leaks, although a few of the screws didn't have any grip. I am thinking the next project is to build a replacement skylight using wood, fiberglass, and plastic sheet. A wood frame encapsulated in fiberglass and made to fit the curve of the roof. Two pieces of plastic on the top with an air space like a double pane window for a bit of insulating effect. The opening is framed with aluminum tubing (part of the roof structure) so there should not be any problem with fastening it, maybe even fiberglass it to the roof. Will be smaller than what's there now. Will have to fill and seal all the screw holes, more fiberglass and gelcoat work.
Barry and Neil, but that doesn't take away the risk of leaking or cracking plastic, etc. The heat still gets in with an inside shade.
While parked for a while, I've put tinfoil on the roof over the skylight. It really helps cool things down in the summer, especially in florida.
My reply does not include leaving the original outer Plexiglas dome in place. I mentioned using aluminum or wood as the outer layer and insulation under it.
We feel that closing off the inside to keep heat out concentrates the heat within the plastic dome which can now overheat.