No spark. Electric is working normally. Should I replace the spark generator or this module?
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi57.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg221%2Fjyarchin%2Fcf58034c6b07ba1897036c676b8bd785_zps3uqr8z5a.jpg&hash=23cc32802afeafac0a33a1ad4a7062e0" rel="cached" data-hash="23cc32802afeafac0a33a1ad4a7062e0" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jyarchin/cf58034c6b07ba1897036c676b8bd785_zps3uqr8z5a.jpg)
Jeff,
Start by verifying that you do have 12+ VDC to the module (often the ground is the problem).
When on propane, you should hear TWO things: click from gas valve opening (can also feel it). Clicking of ignitor working.
Do you have both, one but not the other, or neither?
If gas valve opening, but no ignitor spark, check that the ignitor is not shorted. Mud dubbers houses often do that!
Thanks Brett. Where I deploy the switch nothing happens. No spark, no gas that I can hear.
12+ VDC at the control board/module AND good ground?
Looks like the circuit board has been replaced, would definitely check the ground
No joy. My multimeter isn't working and we are traveling.
One of the most common failures is the thermal fuse. In your picture, it is the piece of wire with the white cover. It is tied with a small zip tie. You can bypass it by pulling the spade connector off the top end and touching it to the T-Stat connector at the bottom end. Try bypassing the thermal fuse to see if the furnace fires. Don't run the furnace without the thermal fuse.
A lot of campground stores will have the fuses. If the fuse is the problem, and a replacement fails too soon, try flushing the flue with lots of water. Sometimes daubers will build nests in the flue and restrict air flow. That can cause enough "back fire" heat to repeatably blow the thermal fuses. BTDT.
Check the fuse on the module (electric fuse, not thermal fuse)
Mine kept blowing the fuse semi-randomly. The cause ended up being a short in the thermostat circuit. Took me some wiggling and testing to find this. I replaced the thermostats ($10 for the thermostat and the safety...come as a kit) and installed them. No more problems blowing fuses after that.
Thanks Krush. Is the fuse in the picture I posted?
Jeff,
Good luck! I have the same symptoms that you reported originally. Will follow the suggestions you received.
Thanks,
Trent
I performed Brett's test and heard both things. The fist click, then 2 or 3 smaller clicks. Then, a whoosh of sound, followed by flame and a low-level, continuing sound of gas burning under pressure, like a miniature jet engine. Every thing seemed to be working properly.
But I do have some more questions:
When you turn on the electric water heater switch (at the foot of the bed), it glows red. I assume it is heating the electric heating element, and will continue to do that until you turn it off. What is the normal length of time to get hat water using electric?
When you turn on the (propane) water heater switch (at the sink), it turns on a red and green light on the switch. Pretty quickly the red light goes out but the green light stays on. Is this normal operation? It seems like the red light used to stay on as well as the green light. Any thoughts? What is the normal length of time to get hat water using propane?
When you have both the electric water heater switch and the propane water heater switch on, what happens? What is the normal length of time to get hat water when using both electric and propane?
I appreciate any advice anyone can give me to help understand the workings of my water heater. Reading through the original FOT manual and the Atwood installation manual did not explain it well.
Thanks,
Trent
You need to verify that the switch at the base of the bed is not for the engine block heater rather than 120 VAC water heater element.
Brett,
No, the block heater switch is on the right side, at the end of the bed. IIRC, I unplugged the block heater plug so that "switch" is available for some other 120 VAC use.
We seem to have survived our second Winter of Foretravel ownership much better than the first. Our goal is to use a lot of diesel for our "winterization" next year. The couple next to us at the pre-Perry camground we picked, fulltime for 7 months a year. They spend their Summers in New York State.
Trent
The switch by the sink for heater has a green and red light. They both come on at first then if the flame lights and stays on the red one goes off. If it comes back on it means the flame has gone out and you need to find out why??
If you use both electric and propane to heat water it will get hot pretty quick and once up to temp' the electric element will go off(plus the gas will shut off again till water again needs to heat up) to help water reach set upper temp'. You CAN use both at the same time but why??
If your red light used to stay on before then it means it was NOT working on gas.
JohnH
John,
Thank you for the explanation of the lights on the hot water tank switch. (Jean really thanks you, since she is the one that was convince that it used to stay on. Yeah, yeah, *I* was the one writing the message. but she was looking over my shoulder "proof reading" for me.) :-[
Trent