So I had an oops while trying to turn around in a small space at a campground with a "Full" sign blocking the road. Caught under the left side big bay door on a rock, bent the lifter mechanism bars so door is too far to the rear to latch on all four points. Managed to get it partially latched, but not fully, headed down the road to what we're told is the only RV repair shop in the Camp Verde, AZ area. Part way there, door popped open. Couldn't relatch it, and last try the chassis side top rear bolt (of the four lifter arms) broke. Door now hanging off left side at a angle, and sticking out over a foot off the side of the coach.
Arrived at compound for A1 RV Repair west of Camp Verde to find a sign posted that they're closed today (normally open Saturday part day). Folks at the storage storage compound say something unexpected came up, they won't be back until Monday.
We couldn't travel far like that and were told could not stay on their parking lot, so storage people pointed us to a wide patch of sand at an intersection about 3-4 miles down the road, where several big rigs are dry camping. Note, we have no toad.
Wondering if I can do one of the following:
1. If I unbolt (& safely store) all the arms of the bent lifting mechanism & the hydraulic lifters, would the door stay in place OK to travel just using the four latches? (I'd tie some short rope pieces to the arm mounts on door & chassis as a kind of safety if the latches failed, to leave the door hanging above ground but still with the coach.)
2. If I got down the road two more miles to Walmart Cottonwood, got a substitute mounting bolt, and pounded the lifter arms straight again (on a concrete parking curb maybe?) would that work to straighten them & remount? Seems like they are just standard flat iron, or am I wrong? Would they still be structurally OK after bending & straightening?
Would like to get back on the road, but if these two ideas are a "no go", hopefully we can get some shop help Monday. Any other good shops nearby? We are heading north, but can't travel any distance in the coach's present condition.
Any ideas, suggestions? Thanks!
Not to be flippant but it sounds like it is time for the duct tape. That would get you down the highway and through to the first of the week.
I will agree with the duct tape. You might want to take the door and lift mechanism off and take some plastic taped to the door opening to keep the weather out. Some of the bolts that keep the door mechanism in place are a special shoulder bolt that you can order from FOT. You will see when you have it apart to realign the mechanism. Good luck. Remember that duct tape and baling wire fixes everything.
Mine was damaged a few years ago with same outcome and I did D Tape it closed ( for over 1k miles no less). You can straighten the arms out and taking off the air springs stops the door from going up. If there is an awning above door damaged then get a long piece of rope and tie one end to lower part of awning arm and throw it under the coach to opposite side so it goes around the bad door then tie it up on other side to something, this will keep it down and sort of closed. Use a good knot.
JohnH
To straighten out the lifting mechanism you will have to remove the gas springs. To get them back on get a cheap ratchet tie down at Wally world and use it to compress the gas spring the inch or so it needed to re-attach.
Jack,
1. If the latches weren't damaged they will hold just like they would if you had the lift arms attached.
2. The arms can be adjusted back with a #4 hammer. They will be OK after this adjustment. You can use a 1/4" bolt for a hinge pin till you can get the proper pin. Both pin and spring washer can be gotten from any Fastenal (they may not have them on the shelf but can get them overnight) You need to make sure that you get the right length as the door has 3 different lengths. Don't forget the matching locknuts as a regular nut will back off. One other thought they are Stainless.
The big problem I see in this repair is did you loose the brass bushings that were on this arm? Check out the other arm that hasn't broken to see the bushings that I'm talking about.
Pamela & Mike
Good tip, tie downs are sort of like bungee cords.....can always use more....I probably have six or eight on board. Will get some smaller ones for this job. I need to do a bunch of the lifters on inside cupboards too.
Thanks!
Thanks for all this John!
There's a hook for the kitchen window ZipDee about a quarter of the way back from the front of the bay, and one about half way back on the right side. Straight across would be best, but I think the angle would still help a lot.
Latches, duct tape, and the rope....and crossed fingers!
-Jack
Thanks for all this!
If they hold that well, I might as well try and make it all the way home. My tradesman grandson can do all the straightening, and save these old arms and shoulders. I'll add the duct tape and rope for extra insurance. It will be easier to get the special hardware while we are staying in one place, and I won't be losing time heading home.
Looks like one brass bushing on the broken bolt, just like on the undamaged one on the other side (large diameter, about one inch +/- long). It was held in place on the bolt remains, with the arm pressed against a panel behind it, bolt end and bushing still in place. Lucky!
With a bit of luck I'll break John Haygarth's impressive "1000 miles with a misaligned door" by quite a bit. It's about 3000 miles to our home province from here by our planned route. Touch wood!
Thanks,
Jack
So.....with my original idea to get the bay door back in place and latched, without the lifting mechanism, after receiving many ideas to help me out.......Nancy and I headed outside to make it happen. We had dismantled enough so that holding up and wrestling the door into position was getting too difficult with just two of us, we figured we needed one or two helpers....and forum member Andy 2 and his wife Eileen showed up just to say "Hi!" They had noticed our FT boondocked beside the highway.
Andy pitched right in to help, and we soon had the door back in place and locked.
Tomorrow we'll head down the road for duct tape and rope, then back to our journey to Manitoba.
Gotta love Foretravels, this forum, and FT owners!
Thanks all!
Jack
There is a new Duct tape that does not leave the typical residue when left on for your planned trip.
Both 3m and Duct tape make the no residue product. Said to be good for 6 months exposure.
I have quite a bit of experience with duct tape, especially the brand name "Duck Tape." Remember, we named our RV "Ducky."
If you get it wet (including heavy dew), it will not hold as well.
Normal duct tape will leave a residue, that WILL be hard to remove.
The aluminized tape (that is actually used for duct work) has a stronger grip, but does have a breaking /tearing/ripping problem if you only use one layer.
Good luck,
Trent
The 3M Scotch Tough No Residue tape is amazing. I've been using it for 3 years or more,. Had some wires taped on the roof for a year+ and the tape came off with no residue (the backing did disintegrate at the edges a little due to the sun, but no residual adhesive!) Only duct tape I will use now.
You can usually find it at Home Depot (or Amazon).
Have given some to several friends, with the same report. One friend had some on his roof in Lake Havasu through the summer (120F) and it came right off.