In the next few days I'm going to be replacing my toilet. I had initially thought that FT had used a Uniseal type connection (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=89947&catid=477) but now that I'm looking at it, it looks like a glued on type of connector.
So for anybody who has removed the tank or redone the top connections on it, what did you use to hook the toilet back up and how did you remove the original connector?
I just removed the toilet flange in our coach.There is some sort of putty holding it in. i used a screw driver to turn the flange while lifting it and it finally broke loose. i cleaned it up. installed the tile and will be putting it back in this weekend
My issue is that I currently have the short toilet with a wooden base on it and I'm replacing it with a regular toilet with an integrated base. The existing sewage pipe to the black water tank has to be removed and redone to allow the new toilet to work.
Well I have had the black tank out of our 99' 36 U270, and there wasn't any sealant other than the rubber grommet and that is the way I put it back. On ours, the top part of the 3" waste pipe is also in the toilet pedestal and the toilet location is slightly forward of where the pipe enters the black tank, necessitating the pedestal to allow the waste pipe to angle towards the front of the coach. I didn't see any way, short of MAJOR renovation or maybe using macerator type toilet, to eliminate the pedestal. The tank layout will of course depend upon the length and floorpan of your coach, so yours may be different.
When removing and replacing the wax type toilet seal you might be very careful about dropping any of it into the black tank. Particularly the electric drain valves it can cause them not seal completely. Ah...don't ask my how I know this!
Essentially, my toilet sits almost right on top of the hole in the tank. I think it is about 3-6" off center so they used a couple of back to back 45 degree elbows to get it to line up. The 45s were installed above the floor though rather than below so that has to be reworked to be concealed below the floor to install a full toilet. I don't think it will be a problem.
I've removed the furnace ductwork and cut it into the bathroom cabinet so that I can remove it from the wooden base.
I don't have a direct answer but maybe this info will help (note that I have a '91, so yours could be different):
I have my tanks out now. The pipes stay in-place and seem to be rigidly attached at or above the floor with lots of silicone filling around the hole. To remove the tanks I had to first remove the sloped bases under each tank. This then allows the tanks to drop down below the bottom of the drain pipes and slide out. The rubber flange seals around each pipe stay with the tank - no sealant is used - only soap during installation (according to directions with new seal). The 3" seal had to be coaxed into letting the tank drop. I sprayed lots of silicone lubricant and used a small screwdriver to open up a gap to get lubricant into it. Soapy water might work better. It took quite a while to get it loose and the pipe seemed to extend into the tank further than it needed to but that might have a good side effect: I always noticed when the tank got close to full, the toilet would burp when flushing - a good warning sign that dumping will be required soon.
Here's the new seal I bought: Amazon.com: Custom Roto-Molding 93 RV Tank Grommet: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Roto-Molding-93-Tank-Grommet/dp/B007HRUOC8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459207655&sr=8-2&keywords=RV+tank+grommet)
The new seal looks identical to the old. I could have reused the old seals but I thought I might as well replace them while they are out.
That's an awesome find, John. I think that is the same grommet that is on mine but I had mistaken it for a glued in PVC connection due to the the way it has that lip on it. That was exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks.