According to documentation my 03 295 (oem) came with 3 Optima D34 Deep Cycle Engine batteries. They are rated at 750 CCA.
They were once replaced with other brand 795 CCA batteries. As of this writing we are testing them but my initial guess is that two of them are not good anymore. So I plan to get new Odyssey batteries (http://www.odysseybattery.com/extreme_battery_specs.aspx) (we like Odyssey) I am thinking to replace 3 with one or two and get 950 or 1150 CCA, maybe 850CCA.
Do you see any problem with going from OEM 750 CCA to a 950 or 1150 CCA?
BTW My 3 house 8D batteries appear and work very well.
My second question is about small Solar battery chargers. I noticed two of them today at Cabela's "Coleman 18W Solar Battery Charging Kit With 7A Charge Controller" and one that does not have a "Charge Controller" it just connects to a cigarette lighter. So some reason I like the one that works from the Cigarette lighter. I can set it up nicely. Where we have it covered parking, the coach does not get sun but I can position the solar panel close by that the panel will get sun almost all day.
Thank you,
AL
I personally would not want to replace three 750 CCA batteries with anything less than two 1150 CCA batteries. I believe you should (at least) come very close to matching what was originally there.
BTW, you really don't need deep-cycle batteries for starting batteries. Batteries designed to be starting batteries perform better than deep-cycle batteries when used in starting applications.
On an '03, at least if I'm reading our schematics correctly, there are a lot of other things on the chassis batteries than just the engine. LP/CO monitor, aux compressor, door locks, etc. The aux compressor especially is a pretty hefty demand item. That's likely why FT used dual purpose/deep cycle for starting batteries in our (which is also the OP's) era coach.
That's quite interesting. I would expect nearly all of those items to be on the "house" battery system. I certainly wouldn't want items such as those draining the batteries upon which I depended for starting the main engine!
Since the salesman switch kills 12V house for most things, you wouldn't want to unintentionally shut off your ability to unlock your door or bays, keep your important CO/LP monitors protecting you, or keep your coach level/slide bladder inflated. The locks and compressor are more chassis-related than house as well, at least that is my thought process as to why these are on the chassis batteries.
Thank you David "would not want to replace three 750 CCA batteries with anything less than two 1150 CCA batteries. I believe you should (at least) come very close to matching what was originally there."
3 x 750 CCA we get 2250 CCA based on "In PARALLEL CONNECTION, batteries of like voltages and capacities are connected to increase the capacity of the battery bank. The positive terminals of all batteries are connected together, or to a common conductor, and all negative terminals are connected in the same manner. The final voltage remains unchanged while the capacity of the bank is the sum of the capacities of the individual batteries of this connection. Amp-Hrs, Cranking Performance and Reserve Capacity increases while Voltage does not."
So now question is would it be harmful if i install 3x850 CCA= 2500 CCA.
One think i had tested and determined with my old U225 (Cummins 5.9) @ 50 degree day it had only required 350 CCA to start, yet OEM batteries were about 1000 CCA.
Extra amperage is good. The starter will only draw what it needs.
That is absolutely correct. The starter will work better and live longer, and the engine will probably start faster, if there is far more than enough current available from the battery system. As long as the voltage is correct and the batteries physically fit correctly, more is definitely better!
I don't know how every model year is configured, but since the "salesman switch" kills power 12-Volt "house" power to
most things but not
everything on the "house" batteries it makes sense (at least to me) to keep many items on the "house" battery bank and have only those items on the chassis battery that are directly related to starting and driving the vehicle.
Also, aren't there still keys available to unlock the entry door?
I simply offered what I believed I understood from our schematics to explain one reason FT might have used deep cycle/dual purpose batteries for the starting ones in later model coaches. Just trying, as it is unfortunately a weakness of mine, to help :(
That's certainly not a problem! I would hope that we all come here to learn and to help. That's certainly why I'm here. I 've learned a lot and hopefully helped (at least a little) from time to time.
Thank you all for your help with Eng Batteries question. I think i know what to do now. I will replace the oem set up with same but go up on CCA a just a bit.
Any suggestions for my second question:
"My second question is about small Solar battery chargers. I noticed two of them today at Cabela's "Coleman 18W Solar Battery Charging Kit With 7A Charge Controller" and one that does not have a "Charge Controller" it just connects to a cigarette lighter. So some reason I like the one that works from the Cigarette lighter. I can set it up nicely. Where we have it covered parking, the coach does not get sun but I can position the solar panel close by that the panel will get sun almost all day."
Thank you,
AL
Take a look at this link. See if it answers your question about the solar panel.
Solar Charge Controller Basics (http://www.solar-electric.com/solar-charge-controller-basics.html/)
Hope this helps.
Due diligence is called for when designing a solar charging system. You are wasting money, and inviting a fire in your coach, by using a "cigarette lighter" PV kit. The system is simply not designed for the rigors of charging through the lighter.
Buy a kit that includes a solar charge controller. Spend the money for an MPPT controller.
The unit from Cabella's is not bad, but it is doubtful that it is adequate for your needs. Look for a minimum of 50 watts and a capacity of 10 amps minimum. We are working with 760 watts of PV panels @ 15 amps, running 24 volts into the controller (so that we can use smaller diameter wire). This is based on a study of actual use, when boondocking. Make a list of electrical use in your coach when you are camping. There are many good books available... not to mention the link above :))
Best of luck
Steve & Nikki
I agree with those who suggest that charging through the cigarette lighter is not a good idea. Of the two you mentioned above I believe the Coleman with the charge controller would be the better choice. If you buy that one you might get a better price if buying from Amazon. However, I do suggest you do a significant amount of study on the subject so that you can make the best choice for the long term.
I have had the coleman with controller on my engine batteries now for about 8 months and they are allways topped up (you do need sun) I have wired them to panel up thru the end cap and then out thru the hole for one of clearance lights (then caulked) and the controller is on lower side of bed. Works great. I also have over 900 amps of solar on roof for coach ones so really have no problems with batteries at all.
JohnH
@propmanColeman 18 watt kit is available from Amazon for $62.10 (free shipping with Prime).
Amazon.com : Sunforce 58033 Coleman 18 Watt Solar Kit : Solar Panels :... (http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-58033-Coleman-Watt-Solar/dp/B004RCST9Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460750205&sr=8-1&keywords=coleman+18w+solar+charger)
Thank you all. I think I will go with the one Chuck posted the link from Amazon.
"So some reason I like the one that works from the Cigarette lighter." I had anticipated that it would not be too safe, but I think i wanted to here few people say, "yeah I have that and works great" :D