Can someone suggest the type of charger/converter I should purchase? The current one is a Magnetec 775 120v 60hz 14.5 amps 12.0 VDC 75 amps total max. I don't know much about electrical stuff. The house batteries are 2 8D.
Thanks,
Woodie
93 GV DD 6V 92
We have an inverter/charger. It charges the batteries, and also provides AC power when we're not plugged in and don't want to run the generator. They are expensive, but I highly recommend them. The one we have is shown at Magnum Energy MS2812 2800 Watt Sine Wave inverter w/charger (http://www.solar-electric.com/inverters-controllers-accessories/inverters/maenin/maensiwainac/maenms2020wa1.html)
I replaced my original unit with one of these
Charge Wizard RV Battery Charging (http://www.progressivedyn.com/charge_wizard.html)
I used the PD9280
PD9280 RV Battery Converter Charger (http://www.progressivedyn.com/rv_converter_pd9280_2.html)
Magnum is a good choice. Shop around. Alan (a forum member) at Bay Marine Supply has them for $1625 vs $2023 in the earlier link. And he usuallyngives a discount to Forum members. Call and ask.
Magnum MS2812 2800 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter-Charger (http://baymarinesupply.com/store/magnum-ms2812-marine-rv-inverter-charger.html)
What ever you choose you should be getting a pure sine wave inverter. All of your new electronic stuff will do better.
Roger
I can offer another possible choice: the PowerMax PM4B-75, from Best Converter. Two years ago, when I went looking for a newer replacement charger/converter, I was pointed at Randy's web site. I found him to be very friendly and willing to share his considerable knowledge about RV electronics. He said the PM4B-75 would be perfect for my 2 AGM8D house batteries. I took his advice, purchased one, and it worked great for two years until we upgraded (again) to a Magnum MS2812.
PowerMax PM4B-75 (75 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Charger) (http://www.bestconverter.com/PowerMax-PM4B-75-75-Amp-4-Stage-ConverterCharger_p_414.html#.VxTUUWNlmuU)
Woodie, you might give Randy a call and "pick his brain"...even if you don't buy anything from him, you will get good advice!
I wasn't trying to "steer" the OP in any direction, and I should have done a better job of providing a quick electrical system tutorial.
I really appreciate having our inverter/charger, and wanted to let the OP know that this was a good
opportunity to increase his capabilities and that he could save money and effort in the long run by upgrading now rather than spending money now on a converter/charger and then later spending more money on an inverter/charger. I honestly thought I was staying "On Track"!
No worries, D. J., I should not have made that comment. I have edited my post to a recommendation only. And I DO agree with you about the wisdom of upgrading the electrical system in one big step, rather than several small steps. It DOES save you money in the long run!
If setting up an RV system from scratch I would give serious thought to running separate inverter and charge system. Two multi stages charger would handle house and chassis batteries. (Optimized for each banks type and size). On the inverter side I would likely run three smaller inverters. A true sign wave inverter for sensitive loads. A bulk inverter for general house loads, and a dedicated inverter for the residential fridge.
While this would take a bit more work to set up initially the flexibility of using discrete components as well as the options available when any single component fails make it worthwhile. And yes I realize that this is exactly the opposite of the all in one monitor everything on your iPhone systems that are common in new coaches.
OK jumping off that horse and back to the question.
Pick a charger that has select-able charge profiles and temperature compensation.
Something like this:
XANTREX TrueCharge2 Battery Chargers | West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/buy/xantrex--truecharge2-battery-chargers--P009_271_009_501)
(Not endorsing Xantrex here just pointing out the type of equipment to look at)
If all you want to do is replace the battery charger/converter than you can simply put a Progressive Dynamics 60-amp in for under $170 from Amazon. They have larger, too. Amazon.com: Progressive Dynamics (PD9260CV) 60 Amp Power Converter with... (http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD9260CV-Converter-Charge/dp/B000GASX9O)
Many of us have installed the PD charger/converters with excellent results.
I also concur with the "more than one inverter" idea and keeping them turned off unless they are in use. You can now get "pure sine" inverters in smaller capacities for powering entertainment devices (often LED HDTV sets and associated BluRay players and even satellite systems use less than 400-watts), residential refrigerators (usually less than 600 watts), and the like. These smaller inverters have much less "idle current" (power draw when not actually being used for anything but "on" anyway), and are inexpensive.
On older motor homes which were produced before inverters were common, several smaller ones can be easier to install than one big one.
Craig :)
We have one, as well, that Brett put in, very cool. One dealy-bob I miss in this coach, which the Airstream had, is a way to check the batteries when at a dry site without running the gennie.
I have a 400 watt pure sine wave inverter for the entertainment end, a 1000 watt pure sine wave for the res refrig and a couple outlets and a separate very smart battery charger for house and start batteries. I can just shut off the big power hungry inverter/charger and idle on less than 1/5 the amps of the old inverter.
Separate components compared to the now 15 yr old inverter are more efficient. When it is time to replace the current big fellow I will wilth the most efficient one I can find and keep the other small ones as well. It is nice to have the really big charger when you need it.
If you meant to say "...a way to
charge the batteries...", then the answer to that one is simple: SOLAR.
Edit (after post below): OK, Mike, I see what you're saying. Disregard my comment.
No, not what I meant: If I'm on shore or gen, I can see the shape of our two banks. If sitting in "dry mode" there seems to be no way I can check the shape of the batteries. YES, I have a VOM, but a pain to go out and check them! ::)
I installeda trimetric battery monitor that does just that. Works great and not all that difficult to install.
Roland
TriMetric Battery Monitor (http://www.bestconverter.com/TriMetric-Battery-Monitor_c_66.html)
I am sitting in AZ in my 2000 u320 at a park with water but no electricity. I have been using 3 solar panels of 255 watts reach and a 60 amp. Morningstar MPPT controller. I have not needed the generator all winter, except to run the air conditioning.
The panels are installed flat on my roof so I am not getting peak performance from them. The solar people tell me I may add a fourth panel and not exceed the controller amperage since they are flat.
I think running 3 Inverters dedicated to various loads is a great idea, for I do not want to waste power on the contactor under the bed. I probably would replace the contactor with a manual switch.
I would be most interested to know what others experience has been with the residential refrigerator; the main attraction for me with it being I could get rid of the cold air entering from the vent and the chimney.
Perhaps I may run the existing Dometic refrigerator on solar during the day and gas at night. Has anyone had experience with this?
An additional question: Would running the icemaker compressor on a hot day have a measurable effect on refrigerator temperatures?
I can see where it would help the freezer, but would the decreased load there help in the refrigerator?
Would appreciate your comments,
Dave
Perhaps
An additional question: Would running the icemaker compressor on a hot day have a measurable effect on refrigerator temperatures?
I can see where it would help the freezer, but would the decreased load there help in the refrigerator?
Would appreciate your comments,
Dave
Perhaps
[/quote]
I know the Samsung I put in my Monaco had twin compressors one for freezer one for refrigerator and only uses 3 amps. But I don't think any refrigerators have a separate compressor for the icemaker.
There was a dometic that had a compressor for the icemaker, have worked on some of them. and they dud make the freezer compartment colder
Woodie,
You can see there are a wide range of answers-- based on how the POSTER (perhaps not you) use their coach.
The more you can tell us about how you use the coach the more focused can be our advice.
Are you wanting to "get by" with a low cost, but reasonable charger?
Are you looking for an inverter/charger?
Is this an "occasional use" coach, full time, lots of dry camping, plugged in while in storage....
There is no single "best answer for all".
Woodie,
I bought my 93 U300 in 2012. The converter/charger had previously been replaced with a Progressive Dynamics PD 9160A 60 amp charger. The Taytronics 1500 inverter was dead and there were two Interstate Workaholic 8D-XHD house batteries. Original TVs, Microwave, and Dometic 4804 refrigerator with ice-maker. Since then I have added a Charge Wizard Pendant, a Trik-L-Start, two new Workaholics, digital converters for the TVs, and an Atwood Helium Fridge with no ice maker. Thanks to Irwin I have a new to me Taytronics inverter.
All works fine including a plugged in Keurig coffee maker, just not at the same time. All will get upgraded in the future as needed. It's good for weekends and vacations but probably not sufficient for full time. I have a bigger better fridge now that can still run on propane but no ice-maker and can add a portable later if needed. A lot of bang for a few bucks!
Jerry
Craig mentioned the Progressive Dynamics charger/converter.
That is the one I upgraded to about 2 years ago and it has worked great.