I am going to sanitize the water system in Toby. I see they recommend the bleach in the tank for three hours my question is can I leave the bleach mixture in overnight or can I wait for a day after draining to flush it.
My personal opinion is that you could do that. No real knowledge about whether it could cause harm. There is some chlorine in most municipal water and that doesn't cause any problem with the plumbing.
For my own edification, I Googled about a half dozen different web pages on "How To Sanitize RV Water System" They were all pretty consistent in the basic procedure, although they might differ in the details.
For bleach quantity, several recommended 1/4 cup Clorox per 15 gallons of capacity. Others said use a 5% solution, which supposedly works out to about 2 cups per 100 gallons. (I did not check their math) Some said to use swimming pool chemicals instead of bleach - I don't know anything about that stuff.
To answer your questions, they all recommended leaving the bleach in the system for 3-4 hours minimum, but said that "overnight is better".
I see no reason for concern if you add bleach one day, and drain the next day.
After draining the bleach, they all simply say to flush the system with fresh water until the smell is gone. No time factor was given. If you don't flush right away, the bleach solution will still be sitting in the pipes or any place that doesn't drain. To avoid any problems, it would probably be better to go ahead and flush (at least once) right after you drain the bleach. In my experience, one flush does not get rid of all the bleach smell (especially in the hot shower), so if you or the DW are sensitive to the odor, you may have to flush several times.
We live in the desert, get all our water from our well, and I hate to waste fresh water. When I go through this sanitizing process, usually once a year in the Spring, I like to put the water to some beneficial use. To empty my water tank, instead of just opening the drain valve and letting it run down my driveway, I connect a garden hose to my exterior faucet (in the wet bay) using a screw-on adapter. I run the hose out into the yard, turn on the water pump, and open the hot and cold faucet. This pumps the water out of the tank and the water heater, and waters the grass in the process. I even do this with the bleach sanitizing solution - it doesn't seem to bother our grass any, but since we have mostly weeds and native grasses, it might be more hardy than the typical "golf green" type of lawn.
This water sanitizing routine isn't rocket science, so I wouldn't stress over it too much. Some Forum members claim to have never done it, and they are still alive and kicking. If you generally fill your tank from city water (which is chlorinated) then you could probably skip the whole thing. Do what makes you happy!
Chuck, 2 cups per 100 gallons is OK if your tanks are nasty for some reason. It is more than we normally use. After we drain and flush all of the winter antifreeze from lines and drains i like to add a 1/2 cup through the water fill line and all of that plumbing and about 60 gallons of water. Then we go for a drive to slosh it all around, pump it through all of the lines, let it sit over night, drain every thing out. Then fill the tank, pump water through the lines, and drain that out. And then refill to about 80% with about 2 tbs of bleach. If the water sits in the tank for more than a couple weeks I drain it out before we leave and refill. We normally don't travel with more than 50% unless we know there will be no water where we are going. All of the incoming water gets filtered for particulates and organics.
Lots of ways and opinions on how to do this. Find a way that works best for you and make it a habit. You and your water will be happy.
I, like Chuck, see no point in worrying too much about what is right or wrong on this issue but will give you my 10 cents. I do not use as much bleach as has been mentioned in the tank, around 6 ozs or so in a full tank and then pump it into system. Leave it overnight then drain and flush with fresh water till the smell is pretty much gone. While travelling I also add a spoonful to the water at least every month to "top up" resistance to Bacteria etc. You never know what you are getting when using CG water and even if the local supply is excellent there may be breaks or back flow throughout the complete system that "could" affect the once clean safe water.
We have got used to a slight bleach smell and think nothing of it. By the way we use only Bleach that CAN be used for drinking water and that has no soaps or? in it.
JohnH
I agree - I was just relaying the "consensus" from all the web pages I perused. I usually use 1 cup of bleach for our whole tank. 1 cup is easy for me to remember (a important factor in later life). Since we don't drink or cook with the water out of our tank (use bottled water instead), I don't worry about this stuff too much. Mostly just try to keep the seaweed growth in the tank to a minimum. 8)
Can't stand the smell & taste of bleach, so for the last four years we have used hydrogen peroxide. It breaks down after 24 hours and turns to water.
If it is good enough to clean wounds then it must be OK for sanitizing a water system. I use eight (8) quarts of HP from the Dollar Tree store. Put it in after the water heater is full and then pump it throughout the system.
I do run water thru the system after waiting 24 hours just to clean out the system.
I did run six gallons of vinegar thru the water heater to remove calcium deposits, etc a couple weeks ago.
We do not drink the tank water or cook with it as we do carry bottled water or a full 6 gal container from home for those purposes.
FWIW,
I can say with some certainty that bleach is a much better disinfectant than Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen Peroxide is great for Anaerobic bacteria, for Aerobic Bacteria, not much. I, too use it to clean wounds, but it does not disinfect. It is for cleaning the wound (not disinfecting). I would strongly recommend for disinfecting, use Bleach. I don't like the taste of pool water either.
Not trying to step on anyones toes.
Best of travels
FWIW ---- Traveling with a full tank of fresh water in my coach is a good idea because of the weight distribution. I like to have that weight upfront as is feels better steering and stability on winding roads. We all have our little nuances!! Have a great day ---- Fritz
Thanks for the answers guys. I am doing it because the motor home sat for seven years and even though we will be taking bottled water for drinking and cooking we just want to be sure with a baby on board. I really didn't want to find out the hard way that there was some mystery expensive component that couldn't take the extra time in the bleach. It was also going to make for a long night if I had to do it all in quick succession.
I will be travelling with full tanks for sure because we are boondocking at most of our destinations (race tracks)
I have never done it. I fill with city water which has chlorine. Made it to 62 so far, ^.^d
Just a note for people with AquaHot. Don't leave bleach in the AH domestic hot water loop for extended periods.
SERVICE BULLETIN
Date: Bulletin # S-107 Model(s)/ Item: Aqua-Hot August 22, 1997
Subject: Use of Chlorine Bleach in the Aqua-Hot's Domestic Water Loop
15549 East
"This technical bulletin is to inform all customers that chlorine bleach or other concentrated chlorine
bearing chemicals can cause failure to the Aqua-Hot's Domestic Water Loop (copper tubing) if not
properly and thoroughly rinsed. The Aqua-Hot's copper tubing is rated for use with fresh water and
winterization solutions only. Periodic flushing with other common household chemicals, including
bleach, will have little or no effect on the product if properly rinsed with fresh water afterwards. If
materials, other than water or winterization solutions, are allowed to reside within the copper piping
for an extended period of time (example, while the unit is in storage) flexibility, softening, or failure
of the copper tubing may result. There have been three reported instances of multiple ruptures
characterized by lateral cracks in the tubing with green and black residue inside the tubing and around
the openings. The copper supplier determined the cracking was the result of a chemical attack from
inside the copper tubing. These types of chemical attacks cause separation of the copper along grain
bounderies. The most common cause is extended exposure to chlorine, solutions with chlorine
(example, bleach), or hydrochloric acid."