I'm puzzled :headwall:
My fridge started acting up when my battery started it's decline...
Now it holds steady at 12.6v
So I replaced the battery... put it on gas... now the check light comes on... put it on 110v.. fine...
I have thoes 2 settings .. then automatic, shouldn't that also be 12v?
I hear the click in the gas mode... electronic ignition?
Is there a breaker? What am I missing? Could it be a bad board?
Yes, the refrigerator PC board, that controls operation on either 120 VAC or propane needs 12+ VDC.
But, if you hear the clicking of the ignitor, it is trying to run on propane.
So, first suspect is that you need to do the ANNUAL burner area tune-up. No parts needed and no special tools.
Could be something as simple as a flake of rust shorting the ignitor, accumulated dust in the burner tube, etc that is preventing the PC board from receiving the "yup, flame is burning just fine-- keep the propane on.
Only after the routine service should you begin to troubleshoot, or you might just end up throwing $$ at it.
If you need diagnostic help after doing the tune-up, let us know.
Brett is on target. The ignitor is trying to light pilot. But probably no flame. Open side door to fridge drivers side, take off metal shield around ignitor clean out rust and try to light again.
Just had similar problem...Turned out to be the thermo coupler BUT...I had to disconnect the J3 and J11 on the Dinosaur board to do a reset. Ordered the coupler and Voila fridge works like a charm.
Live is good 8)