We just discovered these on our roof. How do you know if they are just surface cracks or something worse? Sorry about the crud in the picture. My husband was actually up on the roof cleaning off all the mess left behind after a day of nasty oak tree pollen pod clusters (I don't even know what they are, but they look like seaweed and make a really big mess....they were all over our campground) and thunderstoms. So, there's crud all over the roof from that. These cracks, he says, are right above our linen closet in the bathroom.
I just went up on the roof to look for myself and the crud that is in this picture is still there and it feels to me like some kind of adhesive, like what is left behind after a sticker gets wet. and now it has collected dirt to make it look cruddy. The cracks themselves are much smaller than what I had thought when my husband showed me the picture. They are hair thin or thinner and about an inch long at the longest. Is this something we could even fix ourselves?
Is the rest of the roof o.k.? Looks like it's taken some sort of a hail hit at one time with the pock marks I see. Can you clean the skunge off and take another pic?
This is what I would do as a temp' fix to get you thru till able to get it fixed properly. You do not want any moisture to get in (if not already) or it just amplifies the cost and problem. Buy a caulk tube of DICOR roof seal or levelling caulk and spread it over this area and let it dry. It will still feel softish after a few days but will have skimmed over and gives you protection. You can buy it at any rv store and some c'grounds. Do it asap.
I know some are going to say "head for Xtreme" etc but you can do all that later, you need to stop any potential leaks now. It is easy to remove later so do not worry. better to be safe than sorry.
JohnH
So a temp "seal" is all fine & good, but I'd wonder what the heck caused that? :-\
a small Texas hail storm?
So, I just found a few more small cracks in the rear by the antenna with what does look like a little divot from a hailstone or something similar. What do you guys think? I think we will definitely be stopping by camping world tomorrow to try and find that roof seal. Gosh, I do hope we don't have leakage. I don't see any signs of such from the inside of the coach.
My husband also found a big old spider web of cracks on the rear just above the vents. I wonder if one of the neighbor kids hit it with a baseball. My own kiddos have been throwing around a baseball lately too, but I've been in the coach when they're doing that and I think I would have heard something like that hit the back :/ Gah!
Can't help you with the cracks, but if you have any brown stains on the roof, I recommend Bar Keeper's Friend. We parked for a week under some oak trees on one trip to East TX. The tree pollen mixed with the condensate from the roof A/C units, and we ended up with ugly brown stains all over the roof. Bar Keeper's Friend (either the soft paste or dry powder) along with a bucket of water and a damp sponge will make the stains disappear just like magic. Great stuff!
You don't want water entry so do what John Haygarth suggested, plus call your insurance company.
I had cracks and had them sanded out and reglasses and there were little bubbles too that we filled with epoxy. Then I had the roof painted to prevent it. I had the work done at Xtreme.
I suspect these cracks indicate failure of the roof gel coat, probably due to age. Yes, any non-silicone based caulk is fine as a temporary fix, but the roof needs to be fixed and a coating applied to the whole roof.
Trent and Siobhan, there is no need to worry excessively about this problem and to start listening to expensive prices that are sometimes stated. The bottom line is you do need a temp' fix to those places (on the roof) that are showing cracks, how ever small!
Next job would be to wait for at least 2 days for good (not hot) weather and to lightly sand by hand means the roof, to remove any oxidation and dirt. Clean that off then apply a good quality ELASTOMERIC paint to the complete roof. This paint contains a high degree of Rubber so is a good membrane to protect. It is more expensive than regular paint and you should do some research for one that has the highest content of Rubber. This can be applied by yourselves if you can do it as no experience should be needed, just safety.It will give you the protection you want and last many years and can also be re-coated later. I suggest 2 coats.
I have used this product many times on RV roofs and homes with Stucco siding with 100% results and many years of Canadian winters etc. This can also be used over the temporary fix of what I have mentioned before.
It is a roof and does not have to look all nice and shiny like the rest of coach. What you want is peace of mind and no leaks. The nice thing about this product is that it will stretch and move with coach so should not crack.
I have full faith in it or would not be recommending it. Should I find cracks on our 2000 coach and could not fix the gel coat this would be my next option.
Take care
JohnH
At the rear of my roof where the antiskid surface was attached I had cracks like this. The dealer sealed them up with 3M 5200 or 4200, not sure which. It's quite permanent. All future cracks I have found I have sealed with a small bead of loctite PLS-40. If I cared less about the appearance I would use a piece of eternabond tape which is ... well.. permanent. That stuff is crazy good. As a preventative measure I put eternabond around most square things on the roof. Everything else got pulled and PLS-40 for reapplication. That stuff seems quite a bit stronger than dicor over time. I particularly dislike dicor because the sealant can look good but it is actually fully peeled up and leaking. Whatever the factory used on our repaint in 2010 I don't think was dicor. Some kind of black sealant.
Every year I find one or more tiny fractures on my roof. The florida sun is not kind. My process is to scrub with a stiff bristle brush and soap all the black crud. Then I get on my hands and knees and crawl the roof. I have 20/15 vision and I still can't see the cracks unless I am on top of them. Every crack I find I put a bead of sealant over.
We have good exterior grade plywood underneath this fiberglass but better to prevent any and all water intrusion.
. I particularly dislike dicor because the sealant can look good but it is actually fully peeled up and leaking. end of quote
I think that the Dicor must have been put on top of dirt or moisture as I have never seen that happen, or peel up. In fact it can be a b--ch to remove if very thick. It is used all over the RV industry and this is the first I have heard of it letting moisture in (or I would not have recommended it obviously)
JohnH
I agree with John, if Dicor is prepped properly, it has great adhesion. I can see that a silicone sealant could look good but still might peel. That's why I like urethane much better for a permanent sealant.
I mean perhaps it's just my experiences but the rv industry seems to use dicor everywhere and the rv industry seems to have huge problems with leaks. We just bought a livinlite aluminum truck camper. No wood, no steel, all aluminum and composite materials. It has more than a few leaks through the dicor-like sealant and it's only a few years old.
I guess the moral of the story is no matter what you put up there, you better be on top of there checking it on a regular basis. Unless it's eternabond... Or 3m 5200.
It's true though, too, the dicor would seem relatively well adhered except in spots near the edge where you could just peel it right up. On my winnebago there was so so many leaks under sealant like that.
The problem is that there are many types of self levelling sealant. Maybe these are cheap crappy generics that I have experience with.