I have a leak in my slide air system even with the cutoff valves turned off. I would like to replace the regulators and valves and maybe some of the other components mounted on each of the manifolds. However, I don't know what they are or what they do. Can someone please help me with this? I will try to post a picture.
Thamks, Royce
I do not have a slide but the unit top left is a solenoid and the one below it is a vacuum pump for the bladder.
Others not sure but bottom right looks like maybe a pressure valve.
JohnH
You might contact HWH and review problems with them. Welcome to HWH Corporation (http://www.hwhcorp.com/)
If/when you call them be prepared to wait for a return call from them. Could be days/weeks, but worth the call. ;D
The two marked "What is this device" both appear to be electric solenoid valves - they look very similar to the ones used on the 6-pack manifolds (leveling system). Probably a brass valve body with a electric coil on top. I would guess they could be rebuilt just like the 6-pack valves...might even use the same parts. The "PIAB" thingy - no clue - I'd take John's opinion on it.
Foretravel parts department can identify these for you. Give Billy Jack a call, he will be able to identify from a verbal description.
Does the regulator just unscrew from the manifold? How is it removed?
Edit: I figured it out from reading the writeup by Dick & Rocky on beamalarm.com. Thanks to Dick & Rocky for that article.
Royce,
I currently have a leak in my manifold assembly. I plan to dig into the issue more when I get home from our current trip in about 2 weeks. I can hear the leak in the manifold but have not been able to find it with bubble spray yet. I am able to isolate it by turning off the valve on the left of your picture and then the 12V compressor does not run every 2 hrs. After talking to HWH, a new replacement manifold is about $620 and a complete rebuild will be $434 max, could be less depending on what is needed.
if you still have a leak in the system with the valve turned off, your leak is probably between the compressor and the manifold assembly.
I'd call HWH and get in the queue for technical support. They are very helpful but do take awhile at this time due to the busy season.
Rich
Rich,
I am making some assumptions here, but it seems to me that that manifold is just a block of aluminum with some passages and holes for the various devices. So it seems to rebuild it you would only need to replace the defective components attached to it, e.g. the regulator, vacuum pump, solenoid, etc. Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but I don't like to hire someone to do something that I can do. I don't learn much like that.
Royce
I think I know the various components are now. I found a post by Barry Beam of an air connection diagram that v explains most of them. The one labeled PIAB is a vacuum pump, I think.
A simple Google search of "piab" takes you to the PIAB site, for vacuum parts.
Royce,
You are not wrong. The HWH manifolds are mechanically very simple. You don't necessarily have to replace each component. In many cases, it will only require a new O-ring or seal to restore correct function. I'm betting the 2 solenoid valves are very simple inside - 2 or 3 O-rings and possibly a "plunger" just like the ones in the 6-pack valves. The pressure regulator can certainly be disassembled and cleaned out, often all it takes to fix it. If you can do without the slide seal function for a while, pull the manifold out of the coach and take it apart on your work bench - see what it needs. You might be surprised how simple it is to repair!
HWH Air Seal Manifold Rework Instructions (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/hwh/hwh_air_seal_manifold_rework_instructions.html)
Air Regulator Repair on 2003 Slide (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/air_regulator_repair_on_2003_slide.html)
HWH Solenoid Valve Disassemble (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/hwh/hwh_solenoid_valve_disassemble.html)
did you have to drain the air before you took the regulator apart or did you just turn the manual shut off valve to off ?
And when you took it apart did you mark the regulator cap so it would be set at 12 psi again ?
Rob,
Marking the adjustment cap on a regulator might get you back in the "ballpark" after a rebuild. The preferred procedure would be to (temporarily) install a pressure gauge downstream of the regulator, and then adjust the regulator to achieve the desired output pressure.
It looks like the little rubber piece is the culprit , are they available some where in case they are to far gone ?
You did not tel me about the air . Drain down or turn the valve ?
Rob