I am getting ready to pull the carpet and put in a ,"floating" floor from the front of the coach to the bedroom. The question arises wether to use adhesive or not. What are the advantages of using adhesive and what are the disadvantage. Will it void the mfr warranty as the mfr does not call for adhesive. The product I will be using is a cork backed vinyl manufactured wood product. The product is a floating solution hydrocork product made by wicanders web site is Wicanders | World reference in cork flooring and wall covering (http://www.wicanders.com).
Roland
Here on the vendor members, Ernie, does flooring. He only will glue it down. And he makes it fit, tight, and uses no edge trim. He uses the correct trowel notch size per the instructions and he puts the glue on each board. He does the entry trim first, getting it square, and builds from there onward.
He might chime in here with his advice, or has left to use his free time between coach jobs to be traveling already.
Hi Roland,
I put in floating solid bamboo flooring from the bedroom to just before the cockpit area. It is fully floating, using trim in the bedroom and bathroom where the floor meets a vertical surface. In the bathroom area, there is caulking between the wall and the flooring edges. I figure that the caulking is elastic enough not to restrict the floor from moving a bit as it expands and contracts. I left a consistent gap where the floor meets the walls, about 3/16". Since I went crossways with the planks, I used some t-mold where the sliding door for the kitchen area is so that created a new area for expansion and contraction. It has been about 3 years now and I haven't seen any issues, though we have been in temperatures ranging from the low 20's to triple digits. I am now finishing up the cockpit area with some "luxury vinyl" tile. It is also fully floating, which really creates some installation challenges. I will do a post about that in the near future... It is a small area, as regards expansion and contraction. On the other hand, the extremes in temperature, rapid climate changes, etc. would negate the warranty as the manufacturer places so many restrictions on how it must be installed. I decided not to worry about that, but I am still trying to follow the guidelines where they make sense. For instance, this product is supposed to not be installed on any kind of flexible underlayment. I wasn't about to do without any sound dampening material, so I procured some 5/16" recycled tire rubber mat, which is very dense (and heavy!) to take the place of the lead lined vinyl foam (which is very spongy) that Foretravel used under the carpet in the bedroom and cockpit area. It is very tough and the vinyl seems very stable, but quite comfortable to walk on. The concern, I am sure, is that the click lock interlocking system used by the tile would be subject to stressing the joint with a too resilient underlayment when you step on the joints. Time will tell if this stuff holds up, but if I ever have to replace it, I will have a full size template to guide fitting new flooring!
Don
I would follow the manufacturers instructions. There are products that are designed to float. The manufacturers designed that floating construction to be used as a do it your self installation over subfloors that may not be up to adhered applications conditions. Ernie- in Austin in our coach
The new floor install is in process. Removing the carpet was a piece of cake. Staples not really that much of an issue. The kitchen floor was another thing altogether. That puppy was glued down solid and was a bear to remove. I will put up some before during and after photos as we get along with the project. I say we, my nephew is doing all the work I will just shell out the cash. Keep the green in the family.
Roland
Ernie
We will follow the mfr instructions and keep the floor floating.
Roland
Roland, We ordered a few samples from Wicanders. Just been thinking about the same project. Which one of the hydrocork products did you get? I'd like to see a photo sometime of your install. I'm not sure I like any of my choices. But liked the product.
Mark C
We selected the Castle Rafia Oak is a nice looking color and texture. Think it will be a nice contrast to the walnut.
Roland Foretravel surely intended for the kitchen floor to stay put.
You can say that again Bruce. I remember when I attacked that wood in kitchen ( the day after arriving home with coach from PO. I used a 4' long steel pry bar (weighs about 20 lb) and pounded with it to get under the wood and thin metal sheeting that was glued down. Some of the ply sub floor came with the planks but I just filled it with leveling cement and glued a 3/8" ply marine grade sub floor over it before tiling. We have done 40k miles and not a single crack in grout since.
JohnH
Bruce, with a big enough suction cup on the kitchen floor you could have lifted the coach. Yup, they intended that to stay forever. But then that's how they made these coaches, everything is put together to last.
Roland
Here are a few photos I took as we were getting started on the floor installation.
Roland
Got the flooring down. Still have the trim to do. Won't finish that until August. The flooring really brightens up the place. Here are a couple photos.
Roland
Got a quote for a couple sticks of walnut today, man they are proud of that stuff. Have an idea for the entry way and the area around the driver and passenger pedestals that may be a bit different.
Roland
I always start at the entry with stair nose trim that matches the wood. Your floor looks great. Don't use any tacky gold metal, though.
We are really liking the new look. As for the rest everything wood no metal or anything that looks like metal.
Roland
When Infinity did our floor in NAC, they used a roofing shingle remover tool - not just a shovel, as I recall, but had a steel handle that you could hammer on. The kitchen flooring came up pretty easily.
Roland you floor looks great!
Thanks. Will put in the pazzaz in the next few weeks.
Roland
Still working on the finish for the entryway and the pedestal drawers. Had a change of plan and decided that a tung oil finish would work better in the long run for the stairs so we be putting tung oil on all the trim work. Did a "try fit" this afternoon wanted to see what it was going to look like. Now back to more applications of tung oil.
Roland
Roland we decided on a "retro" marble floor. Lots of cutting but well worth it...
I can appreciate all the work you put into that retro look. Nice job on that floor. I am still looking for a single straight cut I had to scribe every cut I have made so far. Still not sure what I am going to do with/for trim molding.
Roland
I don't install wood for the steps, themselves, mainly because the shoes will mar the aluminum oxide finish. I do use rubber treads from Roppe Corp as these are solid color treads and have raised round designs. I'll try and figure out how to post a photo.
What is aluminum oxide finish? I am using a pure tung oil finish. Not sure wether I will eventually cover part of the steps with rubber or not.
Roland
Ernie's stair tread he installed on my Bluebird.
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F-ra7Kxssgyok%2FV8jv3AGmU-I%2FAAAAAAAAOoQ%2FtLoccIaGOlgn_iUTiPBoN3kivLMxxoyEQCK4B%2Fs1600%2F8185054357_d7f2337912_z%252B%2525281%252529.jpg&hash=b43bb1428e01870696b6cb444d06c088" rel="cached" data-hash="b43bb1428e01870696b6cb444d06c088" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ra7Kxssgyok/V8jv3AGmU-I/AAAAAAAAOoQ/tLoccIaGOlgn_iUTiPBoN3kivLMxxoyEQCK4B/s1600/8185054357_d7f2337912_z%2B%25281%2529.jpg)
thanks Dan- entry still looks great after how many years?
If the treads look like something you would like in your entry, then do a search on Roppe.com website. You would have to buy thru a retail store in your area. Not the box stores. Although, I have seen some paper thin treads at Menards.
The treads come in various lengths. Usually, I get a 6 foot piece and maybe a rubber tile for the bottom step. The item is raised round. Their website doesn't give a product number. Black was what I used in Dans coach. Fawn color has been quite popular. Adhere them with contact cement
My "shop" had to be set up and taken down every day.
Roland
Nice shop Roland. Looks like a pretty wide bed jointer there!
see ya
ken
Pedestal finished time to close up the shop. Ken that is a 10" jointer planer, worked great.
Roland
Looks great Roland! Did you do the drawer fronts or did you have FOT do it. FOT did ours.
Oh yeah...That's my new floor and the remnants of the paper bag floor.
see ya
ken
Ken
Did my own drawer fronts. Your floor looks great.
Roland
Ken
What material did you use for your new flooring.
Roland
Shaw High Point from Lowes. "Luxury" glue down vinyl plank.
Shop Shaw High Point 12 36-Piece 5.91-in x 36.22-in Aurora Glue Down Bamboo... (http://www.lowes.com/pd/Shaw-High-Point-12-36-Piece-5-91-in-x-36-22-in-Aurora-Glue-Down-Bamboo-Luxury-Residential-Vinyl-Plank/50259805)
I installed it on top of the paperbag floor. Decided to install on a 45ยบ to add some interest. It also added a lot of time to the install. The vinyl was easy to work with. Just used a razor knife and straight edge for straight cuts and paper templates and free hand to do intricate cuts ( had more than a few of those! ).
So far we really like it. Durable and easy to clean. It was about $500 (including glue) to do the whole coach. Did not cover the seat pedestals. Did pay a price with my knees, legs, and back though!
If anybody wants to check it out come by at the not-rally in Quartzite.
see ya
ken
I saved my back and knees by paying my nephew for the install. Was tough enough on my back putting the oak a walnut on the pedestal
.
Roland
I wish you had told me you had a nephew for rent!
see ya
ken