Agree about impact wrench to make job easier, will do that on other 4 in back.
Messy job to replace fuel filter. My old filter is Razor (sp?) and my new one is NAPA Gold. It was leaking from bottom so double check the rubber rings and find that there is flat on top and kind of bevel at the bottom so put that ring at the bottom then other o-ring is flat both top/bottom so put that on top of beveled o-ring and finally have good seal. Took a while to get fuel into engine by cranking the engine for a good while.
I added picture here of Racor filter I took out, see some aluminum debris and black stuff, hmm....
That is scary! Be interested if anyone knows what that skanky stuff + debris is from? :o
I understand that there is secondary fuel filter, where is that located?
Did you fill the filters with fuel? Looks like that filter was on too long.When I changed mine the engine cranked right up,did not miss a
beat.I would consider running some of the additive that absorbs water.
When we put the new filter, I had it filled with diesel then it leaked from the bottom when I tried to start the engine, I guess that got air into fuel line into engine so I guess it took while to get air out of fuel line before I finally start the engine.
Engine mounted fuel filter is on curbside, I access from under the bed.
33472 by WIX FILTERS - Fuel/Water Separator (http://www.finditparts.com/products/2525267/wix-filters-33472?srcid=CHL01SCL018-Uvtracking&utm_campaign=tracking&utm_medium=email&utm_source=orders)
Jamie,
You need to add a BIOCIDE to the diesel tank. Here is a common one at West Marine, Academy, etc: Google (http://www.google.com/#q=biobor+jf)
Living down here, with zip moisture, do we need to add a Biocide, as well? With the Airstream (living in "moisture city" (PNW)), in 250,000 miles we never added anything. Now, is the fact we changed the lower filter every 3K might have had something to do with it? Whilst I was still working, she'd sit for months.
There are ways to minimize water in the fuel tank-- and, without water, no algae.
Keep tank full when storing to minimize condensation.
Certainly, in the desert SW, you are less likely to get moisture, but, when the temperature hits the dew point, there WILL be condensation.
If storing diesel over 2 months in summer or 3 in winter, personally I add a biocide.
I don't have a full tank, and we're in a crappy site that makes moving daunting, to say the least. Should I throw some Bio in, just to beat the lag before service in October?
Having the joy of an algae episode in my tank by his side is cheap insurance against an expensive and aggravating and inconvenient event
I really don't know of any downside to adding biocide but there is plenty of downside to not adding it Trust me a tank full of algae will go through filters and frustrate you and leave you on the side of the road not a good thing
Thanks, Mods ^.^d My files show the fuel was treated with biocide just before we bought the coach in late 2014. Not many miles since. I guess the question is, "how often does the fuel need to be treated?" Is it a "northern/southern" sort of deal, every other tank, how long being sitting (like us)? Color me confused.
Biocide is added when fuel is added. Said another way, you want the recommended concentration-- it does not disappear.
In addition to biocides, I have had really good luck with a Cummins product, Fleetguard asphaltine dispersant. If your coach sits for long periods, the asphaltine in the low sulfur diesel will settle out (one of the side effects of low sulfur fuel) and is often mistaken for algae--- it plugs filters just like algae will. The asphaltine dispersant prevents it from settling. I have used it for years on my boat with great success.
Will buy Biobor JF today at boating store. Ok to add Biobor JF (1 oz treats 80 gallons) along with Diesel Kleen from PS?
With all that algae you may want to consider having your tank polished after treating with biobor. They use a really high flow pump with filtration that sucks, filters, and returns fuel to the tank. The high flow creates a lot of turbidity and will help dislodge debris from the floor and walls of the tank.
I know, up north, the fishing boats that sit all winter need polishing/ tank replacement. What I don't know, is do our tanks need to be removed for polishing? :-\
No way. Never need to remove the tank to polish. It can be polished right thru the filler. Even better would be a newer foretravel with fillers on each side. Multiple points gets better coverage.
Where do I get that high flow pump with filteration?
https://youtu.be/h4TKD85hrT8quote author=jclark93 link=msg=238603 date=1467990964]
Where do I get that high flow pump with filteration?
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Here's a do it yourself type video on fuel polishing...
Looks like Amazon.com: XtremepowerUS 12 Volt DC 20GPM Gasoline Fuel Transfer Pump... (http://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Gasoline-Transfer-Self-Priming-Nozzle/dp/B00P9RYBK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467996416&sr=8-1&keywords=diesel+fuel+transfer+pump&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011) is a good pump for this application.