Has anyone used a Seaflo pump to replace a Shurflo 2088 pump? If so what was your experience with the Seaflo? I was about to order a spare pump to carry with me and noticed the Seaflo was offered as a lower priced replacement for the Shurflo 2088 and has the same specifications. The price difference isn't that much so I'll probably order the Shurflo 2088 because that's what I've always had and they seem to last a very long time. Just thought I'd ask though. :)
Scott,
We carry the Shurflo 2088 as a spare, it is a direct replacement and have had good luck with the one that is in there now. We may never need a spare but when we are in some of the NPS remote campgrounds hosting you can't afford not to have a spare.
Pamela & Mike
Yeah, that's why I'm gonna order a spare. I replaced mine three years ago and it's been in constant use. I think the one I replaced may have been the original. They last a really long time.
Great idea to carry a spare water pump, insuring that the original will not fail. Like the umbrella theory.
We carry a spare Shurflo and also have one plumbed with hose fittings and use it to fill freshwater tank with 5-gallon buckets, if needed, like at Quartzsite.
I don't know why an RV would be using Shurflo 2088 when 4008 or 4048 are a much better RV choice, are popular, have smooth quiet low-flow capability. 2088 sounds like it has commercial applications.
BTW, Seaflo name sounds a bit like a knock-off name to Shurflo.
Yeah, I was gonna rig up a hose with a pair of wires taped to it so I can fill my water tank easily with the spare pump. Maybe I'll install a cigar lighter socket in the utility bay to power the pump from.
Shurflo 2088 is what the older coaches came with, and they had a 2 gallon pressure tank too. I presume those other pump models you listed are the newer pumps that don't use a pressure tank? I guess the RV manufacturers wanted to delete the pressure tank so they changed to newer pumps that don't need a pressure tank. It probably saved them some money and a little bit of space. The pressure tank is nice because the pump won't start until you use the 2 gallons of water in the pressure tank. On the newer coaches without the pressure tank the pump comes on every time, no matter how little water you use. I read about some problems with the newer pumps on this forum but I can't remember which models they were. I'm gonna stick with the pressure tank for sure, so the 2088 is the best option for me.
Yes, Seaflo does sound like an attempt to cut in on Shurflo's business. They compare their pump directly to the Shurflo 2088 and it has the same specs but at a lower price. I don't think I'm gonna buy one but I was curious to find out if anyone else had bought one. It might be a good pump, you never know.
Shurflo 4008 & 4048 are 'bypass' pumps and can be used with pressure tanks. We have a small Shurflo pressure tank with our 4008.
The problems you refer to are with the very old electronic variable speed Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7 that eventually failed. Shurflo replaced most of them with newer bypass pumps that seem to be pretty much bullet proof.
Barry,
We currently have a 2088 which is working properly. I'm thinking about buying a "spare" pump to carry. Checking the part numbers you mention (on Amazon), I note that the 4048 is roughly twice as expensive as the 4008. Feeling lazy, I figure I will pick your brain, since you appear to know. What, in simple terms, is the difference between the two models? Any reason to not choose the less expensive model?
Chuck,
The 4048 motor is larger and rated at 10-amps, 4 gallons per minute. The 4008 is rated at 7.5-amps, 3 gallons per minute. That would account for the $55 price difference.
We have been using the Shurflo 4008 water pump for several years and it works just fine and we never feel lack of water volume or pressure. Others on the Forum are also using 4008.
I did read that the 4008 is a direct replacement for the 2088. But using the 4048 would also be a good fit and not have any disadvantages.
Both the 4008 and 4048 use innovative spring-loaded internal bypass design, where during faucet low water flows, the pump continues to run and pump at the same rated output, but some of the output water flow is internally 'bypassed' back to the input side of the pump. At some point, the bypassed and faucet flows are not enough, and the pump's electric pressure switch opens and shuts off electricity to the motor. Both the electric pressure switch and the mechanical bypass spring are adjustable with a screwdriver, and instructions are enclosed with pump.
Almost all RV water pumps use the same principal of a small water pressure chamber on the end of the pump where an adjustable spring-loaded switch opens when the set-point is reached, to turn off the motor. Open a faucet, the pressure switch closes, pump runs. Close faucet, the pressure quickly builds to open switch. Bypass pumps add an adjustable mechanical spring-loaded valve that opens when water pressure overcomes the spring.
Barry,
Thanks for the info! We'll watch for the 4008 on sale.
Just ordered a 4088 from Amazon $69,had to pay tax.Talked to shurflo and they confirmed 4088 a direct replacement,the tech
reccommended setting the air in the tank bladder at 25psi.During research I found the 4088's cheaper then the 2088 which you
can still find.
I do not know of a Shurflo model 4088 water pump, can you post a link to the 4088.
meant 4008,sorry was installing shocks today the heat index got to me.
I ordered the Shurflo 2088 for $74 total cost with shipping included because it's the exact pump my coach has had all along and I know it works well. If I were installing and using this pump immediately I probably would have experimented with the Seaflo and returned it if it didn't work well.
I also just ordered the Shurflo 2088 from Amazon for $72, and the Water Worker 2 gallon accumulator tank for $45. My old 2088 dribbles a few drops occasionally, so I also ordered the valve rebuild kit, and will keep it as a spare.
SHURflo-94-232-06-Water-Valve-Assembly (https://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-94-232-06-Water-Valve-Assembly/dp/B000FQ7976)
I decided to try out the newer tech - ordered the 4008 from Amazon for $69. I will keep our still-working-fine 2088 for a backup. Our (newer) blue accumulator tank still holds proper air pressure, so I will leave it in place and see how well it "plays" with the new pump.
I see Shurflo has a "twist-on pipe strainer" that mounts directly to the pump inlet. Supposed to trap the big chunks... Does anyone here use this device? I'm wondering if it is necessary with our large fresh water tank. I would think any large pieces of trash would tend to settle out in the water tank, and not make it to the pump. But, since the water supply pipe from tank to pump exits at the bottom of the tank, I may be wrong in that assumption?
Amazon.com: SHURFLO (255-213) 1/2" Twist-On Pipe Strainer: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-213-Twist-Pipe-Strainer/dp/B000V2W0GE/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1H4AWYZ4S2CKWGMRM3NC)
I think it is like replacing the drier filter on the A/C whenever you replace the compressor. I have the screen on both motorhomes and it would only cause restriction if it did trap trash.
OK, what the heck...I'll get me one. Also decided to get the "silencing kit" while I'm at it - might as well go whole hog!
Amazon.com: SHURFLO (94-591-01) Pump Silencing Kit: Automotive (https://smile.amazon.com/SHURFLO-94-591-01-Pump-Silencing-Kit/dp/B000WN5F96/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=31VjSpEqp7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=ZZANXF6AB99TGMRM9S9V)
I've had the Seaflo for ~6mo and have found it quite satisfactory. I see no need for an inlet strainer on my rig as ALL water going into the tank is filtered as it goes in. JMMV
I agree that the filter used when filling the tank should catch the bad stuff. But, after living with HARD water for the last 35 years, I have learned that mineral deposits can build up in every nook and cranny of a water system (domestic or RV). Like plaque in your arteries, these deposits tend to break off at inopportune moments and can plug up valves. Perhaps the screen would be effective at catching something like that?
When I replaced my 1/2" inlet raised female pipe fitting which is roto-molded into the water tank I was surprised to find about a 2-1/2" long strainer/filter inserted into that fitting. Another reason why the fill time is slow.
We always use the Shurflo strainer on the inlet connection. It has a clear screw-on bowl and a removable round stainless screen inside the bowl. It makes sense to keep out any small stuff from where it could do damage to the fine pump passages.
Dang it, Chuck, I was all set to replace my failed accumulator and put in a new pump, now I have to expedite shipping and get these, too... ^.^d
Sorry 'bout that, Peter. It's the infamous "One Thing Leads to Another" syndrome...I fall victim to it all the time. :headwall:
Silencing is just using flexible hoses for in & out and not using elbows.
We use long flexible hoses and do not fasten pump down, so we can just reach into the narrow space where our pump is located, and pull it out for inspection, maintenance or adjustments.
We put ball shut off valves on in and out hoses, so pump can be replaced or removed without draining freshwater tank or manifold.
Barry,
Thanks for that tip! I just happen to have a couple SharkBite 1/4 turn valves that will splice very nicely into the existing "rigid" in and out manifold pipes.
Reviving this old thread because I want to STRONGLY recommend the Shurflo 4008 discussed here earlier. I have completed the installation of our new pump, and I could not be any happier with the result. A few details follow, for those interested.
We originally had a Shurflo 2088 installed by PO about 5 years ago. It was still working. We also had a 2 gallon blue accumulator tank mounted on the top of the water pump bay, which made working on the pump almost impossible. My goal in replacing the older pump was to take advantage of the newer "bypass" design, and (hopefully) simplify the pump bay plumbing by removing the accumulator.
My installation went very smoothly. Removed the accumulator tank, then the 2088 pump. Decided to clean up the plumbing a bit. I had 3 drain valves in that bay: fresh water, hot water, and cold water. Each one had a 1/2" pipe sticking through the bottom of the coach. I was never crazy about that setup, so decided to simplify. I removed the old brass hot and cold water drain valves, and replaced them with new push-on plastic valves. Since we never "winterize", they will get very little use. I also removed the old brass fresh water drain valve, and installed a plastic valve there. The hot and cold drain lines were combined into a 1/2" CPVC manifold, routed across the front of the bay, and merged using a "T" with the fresh water drain line. The "T" has a 1/2" pipe pointed down through the coach bottom. This allows all 3 lines to drain out one hole, and eliminates the need for the other two. I covered the 2 un-needed holes with aluminum plates, top and bottom, sealed with calking compound.
With the accumulator out of the way, the 4008 pump could be mounted further toward the front of the compartment, making for easier access. I installed brass SharkBite ball valves on the pump inlet and outlet pipes, as suggested by Barry in a earlier post. I also installed the Shurflo pre-pump strainer and the "Silencing Kit" mentioned earlier in this thread. The whole installation now looks much neater. I cut off and capped the original line going to the accumulator with a SharkBite termination fitting.
Refilled the water tank, and tested the pump. The improvement over the old 2088 is nothing short of amazing! The silence is deafening! Where the old pump could be heard everywhere inside the coach, there is NOTHING heard when the new pump runs. Even sitting outside, with the pump bay door open, and my head 12" from the pump, I can just barely hear the motor. ALSO, there is nearly zero vibration, even with my hand on the pump. Only a almost imperceptible hum is heard (and felt) when touching the pump. I wonder if the "silencing kit" hoses are even necessary with this pump...but since I already paid for them I will leave them in place.
Besides being QUIET, the pump works great. Water pressure is much improved, especially in the shower. The pump simply delivers whatever is required, from dribble to faucet full open, automatically and seemingly without effort. I see no reason to use a accumulator with this pump.
I love it when a upgrade or mod is 100% successful on all counts. I will have to say this 4008 upgrade totally meets that goal. ^.^d
Chuck, neat neat neat plumbing bay. Like that the water pump head end faces out and can easily be adjusted if ever you want to tweak the bypass & pressure switch (which should never need to be done). The flexible in & out hose also help by not having critically located hard pipe connections to line up to pump. Great that the Shurflo 4008 is doing the water flow job for you. Thanks for the summary.
FYI, we later installed the small Shurflo plastic accumulator with same 1/2" connections as our 4008 pump and with one additional flexible hose put the new accumulator on the output side and it seemed to help a little at very low water flows. The accumulator is not a game changer, but it did not hurt either. We did not mount the accumulator.
Amazon.com: SHURflo 182-200 Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9VF6Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)