Is this temp gage 188 or 198?
I say 188
To me it appears to be closer to 200 than 190
198, 190 is exactly in the middle between 180 and 200
Looks like 195 to me. :dance:
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Definitely non-linear. Just a bit under 200° is probably the best you are going to get.
These gauges have terrible tick marks and numbering. Here's my take on how to read them:
It's hard to tell but there are thick lined tick marks and thin lined tick marks. The printed numbers should be associated with the thick lined tick marks.
It appears then the degrees between all tick marks is (roughly) 25 degrees:
1 thin tick is between 200 and 250; (250-200)/2= 25 degrees
2 thin ticks between 100 and 180: (180-100)/3 = 26.6 degrees
no thin ticks between 180 and 200; 200-180 = 20 degrees
I was taught in school that (unless indicated otherwise) a gauge should not be considered more accurate than the smallest tick mark. I think the best one can read into these gauges is:
1. Needle less than 180 = engine cold
2. Needle between 180-200 = engine warmed up
3. Needle above 200 = engine hot
I have found the dash gauge always reads higher than what the VMS tells me, and the higher the temps, the more deviation (up to 15 degrees).
It is 198 closer to 200 than 188.
The gage has always read that. I was just wondering if the number went o the corresponding hash mark or the next one up.
Engine dosnt overheat getting all ready for Sturgis, Woo Hoo!!!
VDOsays gauges reading 188 next big mark is 190
Just for the record my trans temp and water temp are pretty close.
It's nothing to worry about. When the needle is halfway between 200 and the next tick mark you need to back off before you overheat. Look at your transmission temperature gauge and your tachometer and you'll see what the problem is. Most of the time when it's about to overheat it's because the torque converter is slipping and making a huge amount of heat. It slips the torque converter more often when using the cruise control. Also it slips the torque converter more often at higher speeds above about 55 miles per hour. Pay close attention to your transmission temperature and your tachometer and you'll learn to identify when the torque converter is slipping. Manually shift into the next lower gear. You may have to slow down before downshifting so you won't over rev the engine. If you're in Arizona in the summer you're gonna need a radiator sprayer. It'll be the best modification you ever make.
A sprayer is prolly a good idea if you've got a heavy weight 40 footer. That being said, we just pulled one of the worst climbs in Arizona: I-17 northbound from Phoenix to Flagstaff in 100 + degree temps. Water temp never got over 200, trans & tach were way within specs. She climbed at 45 mph, shifting all the time without me doing anything. I love that Allison! Arizona highways have a warning on climbs; "Turn off air conditioner next six miles to avoid overheating." ^.^d
He's got a Detroit Diesel with a computerized four speed Allison that slips the torque converter rather than downshifting. I presume the computer wants precise control of the rpm or something? This is usually what causes the Detroits to overheat. You've got a completely different setup with a Caterpillar and a six speed. If he tried to climb that same hill with the torque converter slipping he'd overheat and have to slow to a crawl. If he manually downshifts and pays close attention to his transmission temperature he can climb that grade at a reasonable speed... With a radiator sprayer he'd be screaming up over that grade at full throttle all the way... and that's what owning a Detroit is all about :) ...so yeah, a radiator sprayer is the best modification ever
I agree with Scott, have pulled that hill in my eagle and my u300 many times both with Detroit's and a misting system , did all my own down shifting and drove by the tach. Detroit's are a different critter but love the way they scream :))
...in the campground at Zion NP this spring a guy in a fancy new diesel pusher came over to ask me what engine I had cuz he loved the sound of it :)