Our remote entry key fobs were working perfectly until today.
I removed the kick panel and stuck the remote right next to the round opening on the control box that says there's a programming switch inside, and it worked fine.
After cycling the lock a few times I was able to move the fob away and still have it work, but not more than 6". The fob won't work with the kick panel in place unless I put it right next to the heat duct.
So it appears that the fobs do work, but not further than 6" away.
Are the fobs or the box toast?
When does my vacation start?
Take the batteries out and clean the contacts with the eraser end of a pencil. Put in new batteries.
Does anyone know where you can have non-functioning key fobs repaired? I have called a number of places with no luck.
Ken
If your key fob has died these folks have been able to supply replacements for us before. RemotesAndKeys | Home Page (http://www.remotesandkeys.com/)
Pamela & Mike
I know it's a car and not an FT but I got a replacement at Amazon for under 15 bucks. Had it programed and all was good. Guy who did the programing said Amazon sold cheap stuff but was satisfied that it was in fact a quality fob.
Hmmm. When we bought our '02, the fobs did not work. We were told that the box itself was bad, and that it was VERY costly to replace. We just never pursued the issue. Now .... I wonder!
When mine did similar in my 2000 a few years ago all the FOBs acted the same. Was control unit in dash in the vicinity of passenger feet.
Not available anymore. MOT put in a different one, lots of wires to splice, sort of a Rubiks Cube. Was maybe $450 including labor, included two fobs , and two more "rocker switches" that were the same as fobs, but were designed to mount on wall.
Roger,
About a month ago I cleaned the contacts and replaced the batteries. The fact that both fobs act the same tells me it's probably the control box as Tim mentioned. One of the fobs is brand new and both work fine at a distance of no more than 6".
Tim,
Do you have the make and model of your new unit?
Pamela & Mike, Thank you. I will contact them. I have three remote fobs and only one of the 3 works. I have tried all of the prescribed fixes for the two that do not work.
Ken
No . Call MOT parts
Hi T-Man,
It may be something as simple as a weak batter, corroded battery contacts, or a broken solder joint...all in the fob.
In the alarm industry we sometimes us a device call Code Encryptor 3 (CE3) I do not know why this would not work in replacement of what was originally installed, but I do not know how the orginal one was wired. The box and keyfob are fairly inexpensive. Additional keyfobs are around $20+ each
Amazon.com : Honeywell Ademco CE3 Code Encryptor 3 : Home Security Systems :... (http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Ademco-CE3-Code-Encryptor/dp/B004R26N2Q)
Matthew, from this forum, turned us on to this replacement. He wired it and it works fine. I screwed up and cut off the wrong wires from the Hawk 101 so I haven't been able to get our working 100%.
AutoLoc 5-Function Keyless Entry Systems 11124 - Free Shipping on Orders... (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-kl550)
If you do a Search I'm sure you can find the thread and his PM address.
I would guess that he would walk you through your install, it's not hard. Just don't cut any wires until you get the unit and talk to him.
Note: During this process I also found that I had many door actuators that no longer worked. Am replacing them when I get around to it. :D
Wiring was a spaghetti bowl when MOT did mine.
Update;
I tried using the key fobs yesterday and both of them now work fine.
Maybe jarring of the control unit while traveling brought it back to life?
T-man,
Have you tried removing the batteries and cleaning contacts with a pencil eraser. Check the voltage too - should be greater than 12.0 VDC. If that is not the problem, then see if the wires to the remote's control box have 12 volts - could be a fuse out.
Lastly reset the control to accept all the remotes - on my 2002 the reset does all of them. Google the brand name on the box if you don 't have the reset instructions already. My control box is to the right of the circuit breaker panel in front of the passenger seat - against the outside wall.
I would put in a new "brain". When I spoke with Foretravel, it is a common issue. We have a 2001 U320, so when ours died I was not surprised. Not an expensive fix, plus you can wire in a keyless entry pad. I prefer the pad over the key fob. I also installed a relay that flips our step up when I use output 3. You can build a latching relay or just purchase a prebuilt. Nothing complicated. Our old brain had the wiring diagram on the back so I just had to matchup wires. Old to new.
Get rid of your keyfob system and go with a keyless entry pad. You can mount it right next to where your current system is located.
Essex KE-1701 Keypad Door Lock for RVs, SUVs, and Trucks Essex KE-1701... (http://keylessentrylocks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26&products_id=129&gclid=CjwKEAjwlZa9BRCw7cS66eTxlCkSJAC-ddmwQveWEMHEKq6_VN__M3W8rB7yQmQ-tNoT4WO-YWrbFBoCS-Xw_wcB)
Here is the wiring diagram for the keypad system.
Matthew
How did you setup the relay for the step. I've been struggling with this since my step requires air to operate.
Thanks, John
We had a key pad on a Monaco we owned and liked it.
How difficult is it to wire the keypad if it's mounted
near the entry handle and not on the door?
Has anybody added a keyless system on a coach that didn't have it originally? Ours didn't have that option installed, but I am pretty sure the basic wiring is there. Would love to hear from anyone that has done this, or at least done the research on it...
Don
Traveling Man
I will be installing the key pad myself. My wireless control box is located at the foot of the passenger area behind the panel. I will mount the pad on the right side of the door because it will be easier to access all the wires. The existing module has a wiring diagram and is straight forward. Attached is a picture of my module with the wiring diagram and the diagram from the keypad. Below are the pictures.
Here was the system I retro fitted into our 2001 U320. I opted for the keypad as well as the control module for a few reasons. The unit's connect and work together.
1. I wanted remote key fobs.
2. I wanted a remote entry pad. Nice when you go out for a walk.
3. I wanted to remote close my step should I choose to. Understand this will only work with air in the system. If you chose this option you just need to install a relay and use one of the option outputs on the unit, this will open or close the relay. Your second set of connections are right on the main board in the entry way. I can flip up my step with the remote or the keyless entry pad. Comes in handy at the car wash, etc.
If you have an existing system, very easy. if the label is on the back of your old unit, you just have to port the wires over. One the new unit you have to wire it to be set for a ground pulse as that is the system that Foretravel uses.
The KE-1700 Series Keyless Entry System (http://www.keyless.com/KE-1700%20Main.htm)
I opted to install my key pad beside the door. best place in my mind as the surface is flat and the wiring is easy to follow down under the step and up the front behind the headlights. Drill a hole and you come up right behind the main fuse board in the entry way. Right where your old is.
Matthew
If you didn't have a keyless entry system before, but have the door locking button the drivers left consol, you should be able to use the existing wiring. If you don't have the actuators already installed, the job would be very large. The entry door alone would be a day. I was going to install my key pad in the door, but once I had some basic pieces off the door I realized how well the door was build and what would really be involved. Hence the keypad by the parking lights. I actually prefer it at at this location. Makes sense when you walk up to the coach.
Matthew