Went to check fluids after a trip up north. Found what appears to be engine oil on the rear frame member. All fluids seem fine, though a slight amount of engine oil is down (1/16") Looked up and down, but can't see the point-of-leak. Could that be hydraulic fluid from the pump? I'll have to get my four-volume service manuals out, as I have no clue where to check the fluid. Any clues?
Mike,
Hard to tell the source as a couple of drops of oil can really spread out.
With a white paper towel, wipe some of it up. You will have to take this with a grain of salt because residual dirt will "color" the results:
If the oil is black, it is from the engine-- again dirt on the cross member can "taint" your color readings.
If clear, it is hydraulic.
Same oil in both: Delo 400 15-40.
You can also look behind the pulley for the hydraulic pump to see if the main shaft seal is leaking.
Brett
I have a sneaking feeling it's the shaft seal. Where do I find the filler, so I can top her off and get up to Flagstaff for service? ^.^d
The big black tank is the reservoir at back of engine room. Again, Delo 400 15-40 is the correct fluid.
More information:
New Hydraulic fan pump and fan motor 8/1/04 (see Barnes #), new filter & fluid. Change oil & filter 6/1/07. @ gov RPM cold: max 2200 PSI. Summer: Mountains 1,500, Other 1,000 PSI. Winter: 350 PSI. 0 turns=1500. - 1/2 turn= 1325. -1 turn= 900. -1 1/8 turn=700. -1 ΒΌ turn= 500. 4/6/12 -1/2 = 1325.
Barnes Hydraulics/Haldex 800 572-7867. 815 398-4400. Pump: 1800465. 09JAN2002 pump build date
I would probably not be in a big rush to fix the small oil loss. As Brett said. Clean it up and see if it repeats?
The older cat mechanics thought that the yellow epoxy paint cat used held in the leaks....
Yup, not to 'jack my own thread, but another thing would-be buyers would want to check out with the "paperwork". We joke about "Coach Bucks", but a little deal like mine could eat one.
What I thought was an oil leak was actually a fuel leak at the intake manifold. Local garage repaired it for a small fee. It was dripping below the engine so I too thought it was an oil leak.
Mike,
Let us know what you find. There ARE shops that work on the pumps. Do not assume you have to replace with new unless the pump body and/or shaft truly is worn and not just a seal.
[quote author=wolfe10 link=msg=239875 date=14 Let us know what you find. There ARE shops that work on the pumps. Do not assume you have to replace with new unless the pump body and/or shaft truly is worn and not just a seal.[/quote]
Yup, which is nice to have these "quandary" situations sort of figured out, before hand. Being full timers makes for a not-so-much fun stay unless all the options are covered, and, most importantly, are (ALL) parts available, now?
To avoid further mess you could attach a piece of pig mat or another absorbent pad to that cross member
As per suggestions, I checked the color of the oil on the frame member, BLACK. But we just got back from a long trip and it could have been road oil color mixed-in, as well. The reservoir ? in pic one right next to the air dryer (like to know what THAT is) shows dark oil, full. Pic two, the large one on the left rear, shows pretty clear oil, down a tad, but not serious. I'm going to make up a piece of cardboard and stick it under the pump and run the coach to see if I can spot the leak. Dinking around with a flashlight showed me no point-of-exit, however, as a ex- home-restoration contractor, I know fluids can come from a place not even close to where the leak surfaced!
Mike,
Both are hydraulic reservoirs.
The smaller one on the passenger's side near the air dryer is for the power steering.
The larger one on the driver's side is for the hydraulic fan (driven by the pump that has the separate belt on the passenger's side of the engine.
Being hydraulic systems, if either has anything but clean oil (Delo 400 15-40) it is way past time to change the filter and fluid.
But, I don't see either reservoir contributing to the oil lead on the front engine support, since they are both well away from that area.
Thanks, Brett, as per usual great advice. Mite have to go back and modify my thread about what to look for when buying a used coach. ^.^d
Heck, Mike, it takes me several hours to do a coach mechanical inspection and I have been doing them for a long time.
These things ARE complex-- lots to keep up with.
Everybody knows Cats don't leak! : )
No, they purr😀
Cleaned the frame rail up and felt underneath the lower area: oil ! Fired the coach and let her heat up, no sign of leakage, but, no pressure like truckin' down the road, which we're not doing until we head north to a shop we've been happy with in Flagstaff. Anyone had this happen? I'd be curious to see what parts I may/or may not need.
Mike,
Very impressive; how did you get it so clean?
Trent
Mike,
Clearly, the engine front mainshaft seal is clean and dry.
Have you looked behind the hydraulic pump pulley to see if its shaft seal is leaking.
It could also be coming from forward on the engine and is being blown toward the back of the coach.
Again, with it cleaned up, the next time it happens you should be able to tell if it is hydraulic oil (clean/clear Delo 400 15-40) or engine oil (same oil, but BLACK).
My hydraulic pump leaked like yours for a couple of years before I finally decided to get it fixed last year. It was a very slow seep that made a mess but never affected reliability. I tried a Lucas hydraulic additive for a while and that seemed to help but did not cure it. While in the Caterpillar shop in Houston for a valve adjustment, they quoted ~$4k to install a new pump that they were going to buy from Foretravel. Foretravel would have sold me the pump for around $2k. They initially said they did not recommend trying to fix the old pump because the seals were not a replaceable part. When they looked up the price they changed their mind and suggested I try to have a hydraulic shop look at it, just in case. I took the pump to a local Houston hydraulic shop and I think they fixed it for about $180. That was to tear down the pump, check all internals, replace all seals & gaskets, and clean the pump. This did not include the cost of oil or any labor for removing and replacing the pump, which I was able to do myself. I also had the luxury of not needing it done quickly so the Hydraulic shop was able to keep the pump for a week. So far it looks and works like new. Depending on your specific pump and your situation, a new pump might be better for you but, for me, the repair was a great option.
bdale,
What hydraulic shop did you use?
How long ago?
Always good to keep a list of good shops.
Mike,
Indeed, one quart of oil will make a HUGE mess for several thousand miles-- amazing what atomization does.
If no significant loss of fluid in any of the systems (engine, power steering or hydraulic fan) really no short-time issue.
The shop that repaired my pump was called Just Hydraulics & Mechanical. They seemed to be the repair shop division of Alamo Hydraulics, which was right across the street. I actually called Alamo 1st and they connected me to Just Hydraulics. I checked my payment info and the total $195 after tax. The work was done in Feb 2016. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.
Alamo Hydraulics (http://www.alamohydraulics.com/jhm.htm)
Alamo Hydraulics Of Houston, Inc.
11321 Todd Street MAP
Houston, Texas 77055
Phone: 713-682-9444 / 877-682-9444
Just Hydraulics & Mechanical
Address: 6012 Centralcrest St, Houston, TX 77092
Phone: (713) 822-2087