Hello everyone, I've been reading the forum for a few weeks, shortly before we purchased our 1997 U320 4000 WTBI... We picked it up this last Friday (7/29), spent the night in it on the FOT lot, unplugged, started the generator and hit the road for Nashville, TN on Saturday morning. Somewhere around Memphis, the roof AC's quit working. Not knowing the system set up completely, I pushed on to Nashville (it was HOT), plugged shoreline power in and still found no high voltage available. Opened the ATS, found it had gotten so hot that it melted the plastic box and everything inside is "fried". I "hotwired" the shore line directly to the high voltage panel (left the generator disconnected) and we got by, it's not Texas, but it's still HOT. So, tomorrow, I plan to purchase a new ATS, I will search the forum for the best options, of course. My questions are these:
1) Why? What caused this?
2) How do I prevent it again?
3) What can I expect to pay for a new one?
4) The Reversed Polarity light came on before I found the ATS fried, can I expect a fried generator, or some other part of the electrical system when I replace the ATS?
5) is there a preferred (SAFE) order in starting it all back up, once I've replaced it?
Not associated with the ATS:
6) The toilet bowl doesn't "hold" water, is that normal? Seems odd... If this is not normal, what can I do to get water in the bowl?
7) Toilet paper gets hung right inside the dump valve opening, what have you done to help it move along?
8) When filling the fresh water tank, I know to hook the hose up, turn the water on, and from there I can operate off city water and I THINK I can fill the onboard tank just by flipping the switch labeled "Fill Tank". Is that correct?
I'm 100% sure I will have more questions, and just MAYBE I will discover something along the way and have some answers one day, but right, the power issues are my main issues. My wife and I plan to live in this awesome thing for many months until we buy land and build a barndominium (barndo/barnhouse/house-in-a-barn/whatever you want to call it).
PS: I will complete my foreforums identity/tag shortly. 😊
PSS: I appreciate ALL the expertise here and the information shared.
I'll take one of the easy questions.
Answer: Yes
Added info: Remember to turn "Fill Tank" switch OFF when you are done filling. If you don't, water pump won't build pressure. Try not to fill tank all the way up - you would like to avoid running water out the overflow pipe. If you are going to drink the water, you should sanitize the tank first.
To fill tank, hook up city water, turn on, under the bath sink there should be a ball valve handle on or near the floor in cabinet, turn it on to fill. Keep an eye on level, turn off when complete. Not sure what your fill tank switch does, it may actuate an electric valve that does the same thing.
Good luck in your new adventure.
A '97 U-320 has no manual valve OEM it used a 12vdc valve that is opened by one of the 2 switches, one at the kitchen sink the other is in the service bay close to where you hook up your water line.
Pamela & Mike
The answer to these two questions will depend somewhat on the make/model of toilet. What you got?
Our old Sealand Traveler is about as simple as it gets. Step on lever - toilet flushes. Spray hose to help things along, if required.
I think your commode must be a little more complicated, or you would not be asking. Whatever model it is, there is
some kind of rubber seal around the flush valve in the bottom of the bowl. If the bowl does not retain water, this seal may be obstructed/dried out/damaged. They are cheap - I would start by replacing the seal. A new seal will probably cure both the "water retention" problem and the "TP gets hung up" problem, since they are more than likely related.
Regarding your ATS problem - did you read this recent thread?
Transfer switch issues (ATS 501 by Parallax Power Supply) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28694.msg240036#msg240036)
Keith,
1. could have been a loose connection causing overheating, it could have been overloaded, possible generator problem this is 3 wags
2. If it was the connection check the torque yearly don't know what you were running other that 2 A/C units so can't comment on load.
3.
4.This is why I put the generator under #1
5. I would do a lot of checking with a good Volt ohm meter prior to any restart anything but I would start with the generator to see if you have a deeper problem.
6. If it is the OEM Microflush LF-220 you can grease the flapper gasket with a good silicone grease. there is also a flapper tightening adjustment, some people hate the LF-220 so much they just change it out.
7. Once you fix 6 # 7 will fix it's self.
8. Yes
Pamela & Mike
If you have a Microphor LF-220 parts are available from:
Mullaney & Associates (http://www.edmullaney.com/)
Sue is a knowledgeable and helpful person. We have replaced a number of parts for ours and it works fine. Including the round black seal that holds the water in the bowl. We carry and extra one. The silicone might work short term.
On our Sealand Traveler lifting the flush lever up will add water to the bowl.
You guys are awesome!! I think what I will do is as follows:
1) My wife reminded me that both AC's were running, she made coffee and then turned her curling iron on... That's the source of my issues.
2) Don't do this again!!!
3) $150ish
4) Check Gen set this evening with meter... Just separate wires and have wife turn it on while I meter it.
5) Yes - everything OFF, check one source at a time.
6-7) I'll oil up the gasket, but, in my perspective, it doesn't put out enough water to flush the stuff/paper and then also fill the bowl at all. The toilet is a house "style" with no tank, but a push/pull handle like on an older style urinal. Still not sure here...
8) Hook the hose up, turn the water on, and flip the switch labeled "Fill Tank". GOT IT. 👍
Our flapper valve in the microphor did not seal well. Replaced the valve. Seals fine.
Probably old dried up water. Maybe some vinegar in the bowl might help temporarily?
Our black tank valve had been mis assembled previously and the seal was protruding into the opening.
Required taking the compartment apart.
At the same time I changed the drain pipes end to the newer style and bought an external 6" clear extension and a clear third valve with a hose fitting and valve on it.
The setup allowed me to back fill the black tank then flush it well several times.
I leave some water in the black tank along with my politically incorrect, envioumentallly unfriendly Aquachem chemical with the removeable third valve.
We have the same model as do others here except ours is a mid door.
Four years of constant repairs and upgrades so if you need info please ask/post
Yes that's the toilet we have, is there any adjustments that can be made to increase the water flow?
Excellent information and idea. I may do the same thing. That back flush valve and a new flapper boot/seat may fix my toilet. I flushed it about 20 times and got most of the paper down, now there is still a tad bit hanging, but I think I will get a painters paddle and push it down so I can inspect it, then put some grease or vaseline on it until I can get the right parts.
Yes -
If you lift the lid on what looks like the tank you will see a Black round dial on top of a white rectangle. This is a timer that you can turn to allow more water or less. I think it's a timer actually.
In the attached pic my finger is pointing to it. ;D
Call Sue tomorrow AM re what is the best short term method to help seal the flapper and order 2 black gaskets - they are cheep and easy to put on. I think that will solve you water draining problem. Untill then you can keep a pitcher of water by to :flush" the stuff down.
PS - We always keep a toilet brush nearby and use that to "help" move the stuff when dumpage is not moving.
Keith,
If you live in the Nashville area there is a member TAS 69 that has a '97 U-320 also. He may be able to help you with some things that are specific to the '97s ATS as he has just replace one of his recently. If he don't chime in in a couple of days drop him a P/M.
Pamela & Mike
The Thetford end was cut off and the valterra end was glued on. Then the extensions fit. Bought a 20' hose and it fits the hose storage built in.
It appears that no one has addressed your ATS questions - Where to get one, what is the cost and how to power it back up. Also how to ensure that it doesn't happen again. Our Own Brett W. always, always, always suggests that your lugs/screws are tight and check them yearly or more often.
Use the Search function for: ATS you will find out all kinds of interesting things. It was magic for me until I read a bunch of stuff. While I started the removal of the old and the install of the new I was fortunate in that I had a tel con with a knowledgeable FoFum member that helped to take the mystery out of the product. Your search will answer all of your questions and if you need help when the time comes for the install I would guess that someone here will be able to walk you through it.
Do you have a decent millimeter? It is necessary before you try to swap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4f5Baheph5w
I think this is what we installed - some what less expensive though. Parts are replaceable. On our last one we could not get parts to repair so had to replace the whole thing.
Amazon.com : Esco ES50M-65N Automatic Transfer Switch from Power Cord to... (http://www.amazon.com/Esco-ES50M-65N-Automatic-Transfer-Generator/dp/B008VF931S/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1470006080&sr=8-13&keywords=rv+automatic+transfer+switch)
Re: running lots of electrical stuff at the same time as had been said. Check what is running when and the term to remember in these things is: "Power Management". Not easy to understand but not hard. When we use a hair dryer and both A/Cs are on or we need to use the micro/convection one A/C unit gets turned off. You will get a feel for what you can run when - you sill figure it out as time and usage goes by. There are tables that shows what amps are used by what RV equipment - Just can't find it now.
As I have shared many times in this forum - I spent hours and hours and read every post that had been written on this forum when we purchased our Ol Girl and looked at every pic. I didn't remember much, since I am not the sharpest tack in the box, but it gave me a great overview of what was happening. Sooooo, as I was running into challenges I didn't remember exactly what the solution was but I did remember that something was said. At that point I would try to ask the question here. As you have found, if you ask a question you are apt to get responses quite soon. Usually two or three possible solutions. It is up to you to troubleshoot and repair when you can unless you have deep pockets.
I hope that I am not being redundant and apologize if I am preaching to the choir.
That's exactly what I thought that was, saw it but I don't recall it having the numbers. I had to leave in a hurry, so will look again when I get back this evening. I will put the brush into use ASAP. We picked it up without a full stock, now I need to make a Walmart run.
Carol & Scott, you're not preaching to the choir and I can handle redundancy over silence. 😊
I have read as many threads on the ATS topic as I could during and after the crisis. It does seem to be easily repairable, I did HVAC work for 22 years, so I think I can get it this time. Sadly, I've been out of that business, and therefore mindset, for about 9 years. I was driving and didn't know my wife was making coffee AND curling her hair... I smelt the coffee and could only think "Wow, she's so awesome"... HAHA!!
Ignorance is not always bliss.
I do hope I find a local (Nashville) source tomorrow so I can get it replaced tomorrow night (cooler), so that I can feel more comfortable headed back to Texas on Thursday.
About the toilet leakage problem, I had the same problem. While I was waiting for the new gasket to arrive, I pulled the old one off. It was caked with hard water deposits, so I soaked it in a little Lime-Away, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. My problem was solved. I never used the new one, just stored it for later. Good luck.
Carol & Scott, I did bring my tool bag and a multimeter. So I have the electrical taken care of, some plumbing (I hope it doesn't come up) taken care of but none of the chassis/mechanical work ability (and I HOPE it doesn't come up either!!).
Many will disagree, but we never put TP down the toilet-only in the wastebasket nearby. If you want to continue to put it down the toilet, make sure you use a brand made for RV use that will dissolve quickly. We prefer the softer, stronger brands that don't quickly dissolve.
Well, I looked at the timer, mine is not adjustable... 😏
Last Question: What is the best place to purchase the ATS, electrical supply or RV supply? I'm headed out today to go shopping. Ha!
Ppl in Houston should be checked if you can wait for shipment When I needed one the same day, I had to buy it from an RV service center. It was more expensive than PPL but I got it the day I needed it. Camping world may have these as well.
You should call around check pricing and product specs. Almost like shooting in the dark. It's hard to knowledgebly fix stuff when you are under the gun. Get specs from local Rv shop and use that as bench mark. The one they have may be a good one. The internet is your friend.
PPL great source if you have time.
An option to get you home so that you can spend time finding the ats you want at a decent price is to wire the generator source direct bypassing the ats and then just don't plug in overnight.
Last year, we took a hit of something (from somewhere) that fried the ATS. Our tech could not find the original replacement, but got one out of Canada that fit (sorta). If you want, I'll look in my files to find the brand he got. I DO know, it was a CB++++ to replace it, since the shore power cable ends and the connection @ the coach were fried, as well. We now have a EMS.
I found a replacement ATS at a local RV supply ($225) and plan to install it shortly. I'm still cleaning up the "stuff" from the clogged toilet. While I was away buying the ATS a woman staying in my FT used the toilet and it got stopped up. In a desperate, and wrong, move I used a plunger, sending the stuff over a small "holding tank"... So now I've pulled the carpet back and used a shop vac to get most of the moisture out and a fan to keep it from spoiling. WOW, what a day, and I still haven't replaced the ATS.
I did find something odd in the commode; there is a white plastic ring that moves around below the flush flapper. It appears to be something either broken or that's come loose in there. I guess removing the toilet is the next step. I'll do that once home.
Ouch -
Ditto - any place with septic/holding tank. Plastic grocery bags work like a champ & tie up nicely....
Jim
I had the same thing happen on the ring above the flush flapper. When you would flush, it would separate and then come back together when the flapper reseated. Drained the commode, pulled the fuse that activates the flapper( a trick in timing just right) dried it up real good,(used a hair dryer) glued it with gorilla glue, let it set overnight. Seemed to work. Good luck.
Just a note: I have purchased a timing gear, flapper, water solenoid and gaskets from Sue at: Mullaney & Associates (http://www.edmullaney.com/)
I did glue a part for short term fix. A few days later when the parts arrived I installed them.
Install instructions came with all parts.
Call Sue before you pull the toilet she might have a solution???
Plus one on what Carol and Scott said. Remove toilet and see what exactaly the problem is.