Thought I had a problem with boost switch , turns out it's a bad connection behind switch connector block .
Cables are so tight the only option is to remove the cream section of dash trim that frames instruments and ignition boast switch etc .
Anyone know how to remove it ??
I haven't removed that part but you might try taking the back off, allowing you to see behind it and eyeball the attachment points.
Inquiring minds want to know also.
Took switch out but cables behind connector are tight and no slack to pull them through to switch opening.
Everything seems to be tied to the steering column, unable to access from underneath.
Have you removed the back cover that you might loosen a wire bundle to gain some slack?
Unsure what the back cover is ?
The cream plastic section curves down around the steering column and obscures any access to the cables
Jimmy, the curved part that goes from the flat part where the instruments are located forward and down to the flat dash will come out easily. Some courage required for the first time. Use a plastic spatula or something like that and pry up the bottom edge at the bottom in front of the radio. Ease it up along the bottom edge each way. The end toward the center will pull forward and up a bit to come out. There is some duct work at the other end but it will all come out with the dash. Once out you can get at most everything.
I can send more pics if you need them.
Roger
Just trying to understand if I need to take all sections off , or , can I just remove the section around the instruments .
Do I start on the bottom edge near windshield) or top edge
Any other photos of the removed panel would be appreciated, thanks for you time and help
Roger
Another look at photos and I can see what you mean ( my fault) .
As you know the boost switch is located down by the ignition switch, hence my plan to go in from the bottom.
In your experience, do you think I can get to the boost cables from the top ?
Yup. I removed the ether start switch and replaced it with a switch to supply power to my rear and side cameras and the monitor. It is a pretty dense pile of wire in there, you may need to clip a few wire ties to get things to move aside. Once that is done the boost switch will be accessible. Take your time and more wires carefully.
I found a set of four automotive trim removal tools. They are about 3/4" wide, all plastic. They work great without chewing up any of the dash material.
Yes, Harbor Freight has a four piece trim tool kit.
Roger,
So your dash cover is three (or more) sections?
Sure would be a lot easier to deal with than my over 8' piece!
Trent
I thought Roger's pictures looked familiar. They are part of a post I did which I think had even more pictures. It is also on BeamAlarm.
Rich
I believe that the instrument panel dome cover (for lack of a better term) on the 2000's is the same as on our 99'. Doesn't lifting the cover give you the access you need? It is an area densely populated with wire bundles, but I can access everything in the instrument panel from the top. Or maybe I am not understanding some thing...
Don
Rich
Would you have a link to those photos, I admit to being computer challenged !
Just trying to get a handle on how to remove panels before I approach with tools !
Decided to disconnect batteries as I could see and hear sparking when I moved connection block !
I wondered where they came from. Thanks Rich. I have them from taking mine apart too but I found yours first.
Good idea on the batteries. Spark are not good.
The main flat part of the dash is three sections. No screws as I recall just lots of Velcro. So that first time is a bit of a leap of faith. Get the front edge up and use a flat something to ease the rest up. The forward part of the main dash is one piece. Most everything is accessible from the piece forward of the main dash. I have had the center section off to get at the blower motor control relay to add an on/off switch to shut the blower motor off. It is used by the AquaHot dash heat exchanger. A bit noisy if. With it off the much quieter AH heat exchanger blowers are plenty adequate and we think heat the living room more uniformly.
Dash Removal (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=18705.msg129455#msg129455)
Don,
The instrument panel dome cover *and* the flat cover to the right of it, were all I needed to install a new monitor and remove the old Audit system.
I removed the dash top for my Automotion shade installation for the windshield. Decided I did not need to trample all over that while measuring and cutting, and trial fitting, and remeasuring and re-cutting and trial fitting. I have now marked them up for the last time (Ha!). Fortunately, I have been conservative in my measurements, so I am still removing instead of trying to add more. [It is really difficult to work, leaning over the dash and working up behind the windshield valance; be nice to be a lot taller or a lot shorter.]
Trent
i dont see dash removal of a grandvilla 94 i want to recover entire dash i know vents come out i try pulling up genltly wont budge any help thank you ,keith williams
Several ways to do this. The back part is easy to remove-- just a lot of screws at the piano hinge.
The easiest way on the front portion if no rot is to remove the old vinyl and padding and install a new thin luan/ thin quality plywood padded and covered over it. The extra 1/4" or so along with slightly thinner padding work just fine (been there, done that).
Yes, if rot, you are in for a lot more work as the FG nose has to be firmly attached to the dash plywood.
thanks. i have a carpet pad cover. i think will leave well enough alone i dont believe there is rot it is firm thanks .again keith
got the hindged dash open was closed so long it glued it self shut i see now brett about what you are talking about thank you
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