Plugged into 110ac at the storage facility GFCI outlet that trips from time to time with no clue as to why? The remote storage site is under cover and the outlet also has a cover. They changed out the GFCI once and still continues.
Could my Invertor/Charger be causing this?
Could the GFCI be too sensitive to maintain power to the Invertor/Charger? Is there a GFCI brand more appropriate to request them to install?
They say electric storms and/or electric fluctuations as little as .005 amps could trip them. The issue results of course in my batteries to repeatedly be drawn down and sometimes down to 9.5 or lower depending on the time lapsed before checking it.
If nothing is wet or damp then there is a good chance something in your RV is causing it to trip. The question is what? Since you have no clue as to when it trips the only way to figure it out is going to take time trying different things. Here are a few questions to answer.
Most GFI trips are not due to a bad GFI. It is thinking there is problem somewhere and shutting off.
When have you notice it has tripped?
After rain storm?
Only when cold out?
Only when warm and or hot?
When it becomes warm after being cold out?
When something in the coach comes on or turned on?
Answers to these questions may lead to more question to figure out why it is tripping. Of course easiest way to fix is if it trips as soon as you plug in.
Not in my experience, I've replaced a ton of them. The cheap test would be to replace the GFI first, and see what happens.
I don't think so. We are on our site in Jojoba Hills Escapees Co-Op parked next to our park model trailer which is hooked up to the 50 amp pedestal. When I tried to Connect our coach to the GFCI outlet in our shed, it tripped the moment the progressive industries EMS relay clicked. I tried on the GFCI outlet at the pedestal, and the same thing happened every time. I just replaced our Magnum inverter which had melted down, so the inverter brand-new and functions perfectly. Previously when we were plugged in to this site, the same thing happened even though the inverter was completely removed. I did a search online and found that this is a common issue with RV's. I haven't found a solution for it yet... When I plug int the 30 amp outlet on the pedestal, then to a 30 amp to 15 amp adapter, there is no issue. I did read someone else's experience who said that their GFCI didn't trip whenever the circuit breakers for the water heater and A/C circuits were off. When I get some time, I am going to turn all the breakers off and see what happens. If the GFCI doesn't trip, I will turn them on one by one to see what happens. If that worked for you, it might be you could store your coach with just the inverter sub panel breaker on and everything else off. If taht worked, at least the batteries could be maintained. Failing that, plugging some sort of smart battery maintainer in to the GFCI might get you by. Good luck!
Don
I think I have seen this same problem described on other RV forums, maybe rv.net, don't remember. A search on other forums might be productive or informative.
If it were me, and my batteries were at risk of be discharged that much, I would circumvent the issue by leaving the coach completely unplugged and use a separate charger/battery maintain that is the only thing plugged into that GFI outlet to keep the batteries up.
It sounds like something, somewhere on the coach is tripping it but when it happens intermittently it will take a long long time to trace it down. It would be much easier if it tripped right away as you could then test everything in a matter of minutes.
If plugging your RV into a 120V GFI plug and it trips. There is a problem somewhere. The reason you do not see the problem if you plug into 30 amp is because it is not GFIed The common problems I see is the neutral and the ground are touching together somewhere or they are connected together. In simple terms a gfi check and makes sure the power going out on the hot wires come back on the neutral wire. If it sees an unbalance it will shut the power off. If it sees continuity between the neutral and the ground it will trip out.
Don has the best way to trouble shoot where the problem is. First make sure everything is good and dry. Then check your adapter to see if it causes GFI to trip, if good then check cord unplugged from coach. If good, then turn all of the breaker off and check. If it then trips, check in the panel or transfer switch to make sure the ground and neutral are not touching or connected together any where. Make sure there is no green ground screw that is connecting the neutral bar to the breaker box frame. If that is all good and GFI stays on, then start turning breakers on one by one.
I always just tied ground to neutral in the rv and broke the ground pin off the 30-15a adapter. My rvs have always tripped GFCIs and none of then ever tested more than 200-300ma of current thru the ground, but it was always enough to trip it.
My understanding from the installation instructions for my Magnum MSH3012M Inverter and Mini-Panel (A/C and DC sub panel with bypass A/C breakers, 250 Amp DC Breaker, Shunt and Battery monitor, PV positive busbar, ground bus bar, etc.) is that the neutral can only (by code) be bonded to the ground in one place, and that is at the source. In the case of shore power, at the pedestal. In the case of the generator, at the generator before the transfer switch. My inverter has a relay that bonds the neutral to ground while inverting and disconnects the bond while accepting A/C from external sources. That is my understanding, subject to change with further study. So I will endeavor to make sure that the above is the case. Oh well, I needed a new hobby! Suggestions for easy ways to achieve this are welcome!
Don
Don is correct......... the NEC only allows the bonding of the neutral conductor (grounded conductor) to earth ground or the "grounding conductor" at the source OR at the "first means of disconnect" in the case of the "service disconnect" from the power company. From this point on the neutral conductor is a "grounded conductor" not a "grounding conductor". The only current a "grounding conductor" should carry is a fault current, it is there to facilitate the operation of the ground fault /short circuit protective device and ensure a low impedance path to ground.
Consider the situation if the neutral and grounding conductor are tied together at the RV, the source is a power pedestal,if the neutral conductor is lost at the pedestal or its source........ the the current will flow from the "hot' to the "grounding" conductor to the pedestal. Things will still work but voltages may fluctuate due to the improper path, smaller conductor, poor ground, etc. Now the dangerous part...... if the pedestal has or has had a bad or non existent ground (condition could go undetected for a long time) the the current has no where to go, this can cause the whole metal frame of the coach to be at 120volts potential above ground. NOT GOOD when you become the new path to ground.......... The "green" or grounding conductor in the shore power cord is there to ensure the metal frame of the coach is at the same potential as the power pedestal frame or surrounding structures and the ground you are standing on. In the case of a ground fault in the coach it carries the ground fault current back to the source. Repeat..... it should not have current on it in a normal situation.
It is not uncommon to see bad connections in campground power pedestals, I have repaired many of them through the years, please keep your coach wiring in good condition and as it should be per code. Don't take chances, electricity is unbiased and unforgiving, it only takes one mistake. Be Careful........
Had the same problem in a prior coach. Resolved when I changed the inverter settng to match the amperage of the circuit we plugged in to. Set the inverter to know it is plugged into a 20 amp circuit.
I thught this setting was to limit what the charger would try to draw, but it solved the tripping problem. Free to try.
I chased the same problem in my coach.
Finally found the washing machine would trip the GFI if the timer was in the position that leaked to ground.
Unplug anything you can to see if the problem goes away. Washing machine, microwave, TV's.
Do you have any of the plug in surge protectors, maybe behind the TV or microwave? They can be a problem.
Do the easy stuff first, you may get lucky.