I am thinking of getting a pair of the Dometic AC roof drain kits and plumbing both to a tee and then run the single drain tube down through the refrigerator vent. That will get the drain tube down
to the refrigerator bottom and from there I'm planning to tee it into the refrigerator drain tube which exits under the coach. I realize that the reefer drain tube needs to be bigger to accommodate the two roof AC's and that may be the biggest challenge.
Any opinions?
Does a roof air have to be lifted up to install the Dometic AC roof drain kit? I thought that maybe, without moving the AC unit, we could capture the roof AC drain water into a PVC pipe with the top half of part of the PVC cut off, shoved under the existing drain outlet. Then I would extend the modified PVC to keep the water off the roof.
I believe it does as there is another gasket included in the kit to give the AC unit the needed lift.
There is tubing available that is "D" shaped with peel & stick on the flat side, in white.
This is a project that has long been on my long list! I think most installations I have heard about run the combined condensate all the way to the back of the coach. That option doesn't appeal to me... coming down through the fridge vent does. Ours has no fridge drain tube, but I have been planning to add a drain hole behind the panel in the wet bay anyway (sort of like a very small deck drain on a boat). I will be following this thread with interest!
Don
There is an elevated rim around the reefer vent
opening in the roof. Initially I'm planning to run the drain tube over it and see if it drains OK. If not then a cut-out in the rim will be necessary, with either sealant or a fitting of some sort to keep roof water out of the reefer cavity.
Piece of advice (after having to replace the drain cups multiple times). Paint the drain cups with a UV-resistant paint first. They are designed to be installed OEM facing in and shielded from the sun with the drain lines run within the roof. Installing aftermarket they will be exposed to the sun and the material they are made of degrades quickly with UV and crumble. The last time we replaced ours (2 years ago), the new ones were painted first and have lasted much better.
If the kits only come with one gasket, you will need to order an additional gasket - you can't (well, shouldn't) reuse the existing A/C gasket as it has compressed and taken a set. Also, pay close attention to the tightening of the 4 mounting bolts for the A/C's. I recall they had very specific torque specs and you'll want someone inside watching for even gasket compression. You don't want to crank down on them or you can damage the A/C pan, the gasket, and cause interference with the blower.
Just speaking from our experience. YMMV.
Do ALL FTs just daylight to the roof? Our AS had "pans" on our Dometics that rubber-tube drained to daylight underneath the coach. I would throw some compressed air up the drain tubes once a year, worked fine. I don't like it on this coach, but our Dometic fridge just drains to one of Brett's coffee cups, which gives me very little option. ::)
A/c drain lines are high service.
New coaches I understand drain into the holding tanks from their high volume
I am also interested.
Right now, my front AC drains to the gutter on the driver's side, and all the way to the back. Then gravity takes over and leaves a dirty filthy residue on my coach. Certainly that was not the original design, was it?
[I am not sure about the rear AC, because we don't use it very often.]
Thanks,
Trent
Welcome to the "Huh, what were they thinking" club. >:D
Regarding the use of the fridge vent for draining, the drain kits are intended to have the tubing run from the units all the way to the back of the coach on either side of the A/Cs, and you need gravity to make them drain. You won't be able to get the condensate from one side of the coach to the other over the center line due to the curved roof - you need the tubing to slope downhill (our coach has its leveling adjusted ever so slightly rear low when parked) and the tubing goes through holes in the rear end cap and exits below the frame in the rear, one on each side. If you don't provide this slope for the tubing, water will overflow the drain cups and could enter your coach.
We know of another FT owner who was having problems running the roof A/Cs while driving in a humid climate. The condensate was backing up in the drain lines when he had to brake hard and condensate coming into the coach. We have not had this problem but it's something to be aware of. There is no check valve in the drain lines (might be worth adding them if you can figure out how to do so.)
Photos in my album here http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=205
I'd like to do something like this. Currently the condensate just runs off the coach where gravity takes it.
I think I will just remove the streaking for now, every 2 to 4 weeks and call it good. Besides it creates as need to Wash Wax All at least once a month. :D
I would be concerned about purposely introducing a way for water to get into your coach. An unseen drain line in the refrigerator space that leaks could be a nightmare.
What about one of these?
I'm online with my cellphone so pics aren't easy for me to see well.
Drain Pan for Dometic Penguin AC 961270 [961270] - 2.95 : Out-of-Doors... (http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=876)
Yup, those are the "pans" I was talking about. The head scratcher would be getting lines down to daylite. AS had the right idea!
If the roof arches (AS/FT) are close then the pans could be a starting point.
The pan could be modified so that the single drain exits on the passenger side then the condensate could be routed to the stink pipe, at least on our FT. I don't know if all FTs have the stink pipe on the passenger side, but if not it appears the one in the picture could work as-is for the ones that don't.
I've got a lot of other priorities before we leave to go to the KBBF (King Biscuit Blues Festival) in Helena, Arkansas in early October, but I still have an itch to solve the condensate problem at some point.
Assuming the pan is stamped metal it would be simple enough to cut out the cross-member with the drain in it, turn it end-for-end and tig weld it back in place, then have it powder coated.
I still am not convinced that a one piece drain tube through the reefer compartment would be risky...........with all respect to Roger.
The other consideration is the curvature of the AS vs FT roof, but it may not be a big deal. I just need to get a pan to look at.
It could be that "pan"was made for AS curvatures only. Sure worked perfect! No way I could route the ACs into the fridge drain, as it daylites to one of Brett's coffee cups, and if I don't stay on top of it, it leaks all over (I can see the stains where this has happened before). >:D
Wow, and you are in a DRY area. Must be very frequent "dear bring me my favorite beverage" refrigerator door openings.
Two options:
Larger coffee cup
Extend condensate drain through outside access door.
Ro
Yup, been there. We had the same problem with a change-out on the AS. The tech routed the drain through the access panel and bent the heck out of the flanges, looked like something out of "Grapes Of Wrath". No room to enlarge the "Brett Cup" and, bottom line, even though I come from British stock, I cannot drink warm beer! I do a daily "walk-around", and check the cup every so often. ^.^d
What about routing to your stink pipe? It's only a short roof distance that the pan would be spanning and curvature may not be a big deal. I don't know what your floor plan allows but there's a perfect conduit in our coach that is the wall/storage space between the dinette and the toilet. Don't give up on condensate drain idea yet Mike.
Regarding your reefer drain, I have seen metal cups attached near the gas burner to allow for evaporation to take place, probably just when running on gas, but they don't use much.
I'm not giving up. I think the whole existing roof air/fridge drain problem is just damn stupid. No blame to Brett, he did what he had to do. After I've spent more of my kid's inheritance after being pimped buying this coach and need fluids, filters, brakes and tires, I'll work on a system, as well. Our's dumps water into "Brett's Cup". Even though it's on power, the muffin fan seems to make no difference; I still have to keep a "finger on the cup".
Too bad you couldn't use one of these with some kind of thermal or water sensing switch;
Portable water heater, Fast heating for drinks - GadgetsGo (http://gadgetsgo.com/12v-car-electric-waterheater-water-boiler.html)
Here's what I was referring to Mike;
THAT is way cool, TM! Now, if the AC pan drains and the fridge could be channeled into the cistern with a float sensor into a solenoid-operated drain valve to daylight, I'd have more time for less. ^.^d
The factory installed mine. Pex tubing in wire loom drain is in the rear bulkhead. 4 years and no problems. David
Folks I've read all the comments and now will ask if there is a chance of the drain tube freezing in the winter. I think the heat pump goes into defrost mode when in use. Would it drain condensate in cold weather?
Carter Langford
Nac
The way David has it done, I'd be concerned, since it's such a low flow.
David,
Where does it exit the roof?
Trent