Sometime back there was a post for a Freightliner dust boot, I have searched the data base parts section and can not find it, if they could repost it I would appreciate it.
Thanks Bill
Bill,
Here is a link to a post that we made a while back... Just had 3 day 1,600 or so mile road trip with my 1996 U-270 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28452.msg237908#msg237908)
There is another with the tie rod end numbers if you need them also... drag link ends (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28539.msg238118#msg238118)
Hope this is what you are looking for,
Pamela & Mike
will these work for my 2002? going to replace the ball joints and Foretravel hasnt called back in 2 days.. Ball joints (how many)? and what else will I need for the steering? it wanders and my neck cant take it much longer.. thanks
Mine was loose front wheel bearings.
David,
I haven't had a forum member come by that had enough miles/wear on the steering linkage on a '02 to justify replacing the tie rod/ drag link ends. (they are the same). I haven't measured a '02 but the ones listed in this post should work: drag link ends (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28539.msg238118#msg238118) As always you need to check your specific coach as Foretravel made changes from one coach to the next not just at year model change.
If you do change the ball joints out you need 2 lefts and 2 rights as the drag link will take 1 of each and the tie rod will take 1 of each. (that is 1 left hand threaded and 1 right hand threaded)
If it is a bad as you suggest I would check play in steering gear box, make sure your weight to tire pressure is correct, dial indicate the wheel bearing play, check ride height and front end alignment especially the toe setting, & while checking the front end make sure the rear is tracking the front. I have never seen a U joint in the steering column go bad (yes there are a couple that makes the tilt of your wheel work) on a coach but it is on the list of thing that could effect the steering.
Pamela & Mike
this coach is at about 180k to 185k.. Plan on alignment as soon as the ball joints are in.. next week I will have time to look at them and go from there.. appreciate the help, thank you
David,
On my '02 I had slop in the Shepard steering gear box. The drift while driving was driving me crazy. You can note the difference in movement by having someone turn the steering wheel slightly left and right while you watch the input and output shafts of the steering box. More than a 1/2 inch of play left and right of the steering wheel will be enough to make you hunt for straight ahead. Once rebuilt there is no play.
Good info here. I took several years at various shops checking every piece in the front end and replacing all the dust boots and finally had my old x Foretravel line mechanic look at it as I had a half inch play in the steering.
Rather than the legally defensible dial indicator check of the front wheel bearings he preloaded them a little bit.
No wander. No play. No dead spot. No truck deflection.
Fixed.
Foretravel called back today and I have the ball joint numbers for my coach.. I will post up them when I get back in town..
So how do you preload the bearings?
As promised...
tie rod $77.00 ea
R230068
R230069
Drag link $125.00 ea
310228 other number given that didnt work at FT 12008BNW
310229 other number given that didnt work at FT 12007BNW
For the 2002 u320 .. I will post some pics when they come in
It's hard to quantify so the legally defensible method is to leave .001-.005 dial indicated play measured at the brake rotors edge.
It's a experience thing.
My x Foretravel long time line mechanic did mine and has done hundreds
My take on the dust boot posts.I will be changing my own whether it is the boot or the tie rod end.
The hardest part of the process is removing the nut and pin and seperating the ball joint,if I am going to do that I am going to
change the whole end not put a new boot on.If somehow the boot got worn completely away the joint has to have some wear.
I found Moog ends for $44, no brainer change the whole thing.Take the rod off and change both ends at the same time,if one
end is bad the other can't be much better.This is how I would repair it.