Susan & I just upgraded our water filtration. Had been using the inexpensive blue in-line filters from Walmart. Now have sediment filter, followed by carbon block, with an Everpure under the sink as third stage for drinking water. Not quite the set-up Roger runs (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=25797.msg205073#msg205073) (clink link, see Reply #10), but a step up for us. We'll get there!
The new system easily permits 60-65, which is really nice. Is anyone running pressure this high in their Foretravel?
This does not answer your question - I'm just tossing out a opinion to get the discussion started. According to the specs, the new Shurflo 4008 water pump we just installed cuts off at 55 psi. Our water fill hose pressure regulator is also set at 55. I have not found any water leaks at that pressure, but not sure I would want to go any higher, especially with a 23 year old coach. Our shower pressure seems to be adequate, and flow from the faucets is satisfactory. I would REALLY like to avoid ever having to deal with a broken water pipe. To show how paranoid I am, we try to always turn off our water pump at night, whenever we're away from the coach, and basically any time we are not actually using it.
Other Forum members will surely have differing opinions...in fact, I would bet money on it! 8)
The RV Water Filter Store gets good reviews by many motorhome owners. Here is their opinion concerning RV water pressure:
RV Water Filter Store: Standard Filter Canisters for Whole RV (http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/ABPressure.htm)
Our pressure regulator is a 55psi unit that causes no problems. We have plenty of water with the usual ups and downs ass the park well cycles. Don't think I need more than 55 psi tops.
Could live with 55, for sure! Glad to hear others are running that pressure.
We also ALWAYS turn off the pump or the city water supply if leaving the coach overnight — or really, for any significant period of time. While we were at Lakewood RV Resort near Hendersonville, NC, we had neighbors with a fifth wheel. They left for the day; came home to an interior flood.
I'd take a good look at where any water fittings are located. I've noticed quite a few failed fittings in my 15+ year old FT that have leaked, particularly when the hot water tank gets depleted and builds pressure in the water lines as it heats up again. The leaks have been at both the Manibloc and individual fittings themselves.
Robert,
You might take a look at the pressure/temperature relief valve on your water heater. Mine was of unknown age, but had obviously been in place for quite a while. I tried to open it manually when I was working on my water heater, and found it was completely frozen shut. It would not have opened no matter how high the pressure got. I replaced it, and feel more confident that the new one will actually perform its intended function. It has already opened once to relieve pressure when my new electric heating element got carried away and ran the water temp up to 160 degrees.
The instructions with the new valve say I should "exercise" it at least once a year, to insure proper function. I plan to do this, and hopefully keep this one in better condition. Photos of old and new relief valves in this thread:
Hott Rod Installation, Atwood GH6-7E (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28797.msg241512#msg241512)
We have a reverse osmosis drinking water system, so we need more than the sometimes 45lbs of pressure. Our pump builds pressure up to 65lbs. Have not had any problems relative to pressure. We do turn off the water pump when we leave the coach for any period of time. We run strictly of the fresh water tank hookups or no.
Roland
Richard, I use a 40psi pressure regulator on incoming water right after my initial 80 micron filter at the water source. We use water fromthe tank and the pump 99% of the time. And if we are not using water the pump is off. I do not know what the water pressure is coming from the pump.
80 micron filter? That's about like using window screening. I use a 5 micron string cartridge and a carbon block. Where are you getting your water from?
The 80 micron filter is at the water source. It is designed to trap sand, rust bits and any other particulates in the incoming water before it gets to the solenoid valves, water tank, pump, internal faucets etc. i also have a carbon filter and a 0.5 micron filter and a water softener downstream of the particulate filter and before the coach. And the drinking water filter in the coach.
The 80 micron is 80 millionths of a meter which is about 0.003 inches. A bit finer than window screen. It doesn't matter where your water comes from it is for protecting your coach's water system. We have seen some pretty nasty water in more than 40 years of RVing. And the particulate filter makes a great place to add bleach or whatever disinfectant you like because it does your hose and everything else in the coach.
I run a regulator set at 45 psi and a 5 micron filter.
Great to see you posting Richard! How are you guys doing? Are the storm repairs behind you?
Yes, I know how big a micron is, I just thought you were trying to keep the frogs and turtles out with an 80 micron unit. :D
I'm in a 1994 Bluebird with pex plumbing, and my house high flow regulator is set for 65 psi for 5 years running. I run a 1 micron water filter, and the high psi gives great water flow.