On my way to get my living room bladder fixed the check engine light came on a few times and went of. Almost to my destination I get check engine watning, shut down warning, ABS warning and start to lose my gauges. Alternator was at about 10.5 most the way and then it dropped to 6 and to 0.
I have an Elvac E102200 model. Is there another one I can track down? To swap it out with? Anyone familiar with this one? Found one on ebay for about 150$ shipped.. or should I just buy that one.. I think I ate up my 2 yellow optima batteries I just got a month ago for the chassis..
2nd note .. is it possible that on my last trip that I lost a battery it could have overcharged it (on the house side)?
thanks
All the alarms sound like low battery Start generator and put on boost switch to charge batteries assp. ( if plugged in just turn on boost switch if charger portion of investor is on) Once chassis batteries are charged you can drive a long way to get your alternator fixed
had the boost on all the way and I was 5 miles from the rv place I was headed... hooked up the battery charger trying to get it to crank and it wouldnt turn over after charging for about an hour and a half.. went and bought 2 new yelow tops and drove the rest of the way... stuck on the I-15 for 2hrs is no fun
To follow up on Tim's excellent suggestion, do NOT attempt to drive with chassis battery voltage (dash gauge) below 12.0 VDC. You have way too many computer-controlled things (little things like engine and transmission to start with) that are in harm's way on low voltage.
And, boost on without generator running (to power the inverter/charger) will not keep the batteries up if the alternator is not working.
A more permanent short term fix (ya, I know, that sounds funny) is to mechanically connect the batteries when using the generator/inverter-charger to keep up the batteries. The battery isolator is a good place to do this, as is the boost solenoid. Just mark and then remove the cable going to one set of batteries and ADD them to the lug with cable going to the other set of batteries.
Boost should have worked
What I am thinking is that the alternator put a hurting on the batteries last outing... batteries died and wouldnt fully keep a charge and they gave up.. sound about right?
I read about Leece Neville alternators.. are they the same? I seen a write up in the forum about those.. would I be able to use that same method for replacement?
Now that is thinking outside the box... that one never dawned on me.. Great suggestion
So this morning I started the coach (after charging the new batteries all night to a full charge.. the Volt gauge red like 10.5v (charge or charging) (not sure). How can I tell if its the alternator or the voltage regulator or if its actually the alternator itself?
Also Question still remains if anyone knows if I can swap the alternator with another brand (type) .. like in the other forum topics
help! broken down! Alternator Issues (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28090.msg235480#msg235480) reply #136
I also rigged up a battery charger to run while I drive.. I think the settings are 2. 10. 25.
should be ok to run on 25 with genny? since the genny needs to be on for the air anyway..
Your alternator should be putting 13.8 v or more to the start batteries through your OEM diode based isolator. On the alternator side it should be about 1 volt higher.
If your new batteries charged properly over night and they are reading 10.5 v after starting then you are probably getting nothing from the alternator. It could be the alternator or the isolator and any of many possible bad connections. Best to find out what is going on before throwing money at it. Put the batteries back on the charger. 10.5 v is not good.
I recently swapped my Leece Neville alternator out for a 240 amp Delco Remy Brushless alternator. Massive improvement.
Delco 40si 240 Amp Alternator, Sterling ProSplitR Installation (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28384.msg236267#msg236267)
plus boost on without generator running (or shore power plugged in and charging) will drain down both sets of batteries.
Had a similar problem last month before trip.One of the red top start batteries had a weak cell.Replaced both start batteries.
"I think I ate up my 2 yellow optima batteries I just got a month ago for the chassis."
My understanding is that all 320 units used 3 batteries, whats up with the 2 here ? or is this the NEW Foretravel practice like the small engined coaches ?
Mine had 3 deep cell batteries when I got it.. I put in 2 yellow tops and they worked great..then they started lagging when I tried starting the last couple times.. so I think this alternator has been a problem for a little while
A good alternator is cheaper by far than a set of batteries. Find out what is going on before you cook any more.
An m11 requires 2200 CCA's I remember reading. Two batteries are a little less than that I think.
Cold weather starts might be harder
Yep, two start batteries will only give about 1600 amps for starting. Cummins wanted 2200, that's why the M11 engined coaches came with three batteries.
I did not replace my LN as the system as designed and sold seems to have a very reliable long life.
I think it was mentioned that 13.6 volts while not the technical limit of the batteries ability to take power into them for recharging tends to maybe not damage the batteries over long drives.
My guru buddy does install three stage voltage regulators for the alternator changing which then matches the inverter/chargers profile.
My dash gauge shows lower than the Audit or silverleaf which are at 13.6-13.7 normally.
Seen many Rv batteries overcharged in the old Rv days so I hesitate to push our systems alternator charging voltage too high.
the 1/5 C (capacity)charge rate seems pretty std around the boat and Rv industry and matches what Foretravel installed.
A fourth 8g8d would have me increase the alternators output by 25% although.
Engine batteries are rarely down much and my buddy installed a 20amp automatic non weather proof but sealed battery charging crossover system to charge them anytime the solar panels are inputting power to the house side.
because of a small wire from the refer to the house batteries there is a one volt drop from the panels controller to the house batteries.
Works out as it results in 13.6 volts charging.
As was posted here and repeated many times more voltage to the batteries is readily available but so far my uses and battery quantity and condition and type has not had me think of a higher voltage charging setting in the system.