A simple generator maintenance has turned into an unexpected problem. Yesterday I changed the oil, filter and fuel filter on my 2000 Kubota generator and I decided to change out the coolant, since this is a new "to me" RV and I have no idea when it was last done. After replacing the coolant, I ran the generator to circulate the coolant to flush it out, since I could not access the second drain behind the engine.. After a few minutes (waiting for thermostat to open), the engine shut down and the high temp. light was on. Both hoses to radiator were cold. Since I had run it the day before with no issues, it was a surprise. I disconnected the exhaust and slid the unit out, and after removing the side panel (really shortening the story here), I checked the hose coming out of the thermostat, after making another attempt at running the unit. The top of the hose was hot, but bottom was cold. Before taking out the thermostat and checking it on the stove top, I decided to post this and find out if there is another possible explanation. Thermostat is opening, since there was orange coolant in the radiator, after I replaced it with green, but it is possible that it is only a partial opening. The water pump appears to be OK (no "marbles sound", not loose, no leak at the bottom). Any ideas? Second question: I'm looking for a suitable insulation to replace the OEM foam that is disintegrating - I'm looking for a source.
These generators will die if they have any air bubbles in the coolant. I had my first experience with this after my service on the generator cooling system. The system needs to be burped- there should be a valve towards the top of the radiator of the generator that you open while you have it running until fluid comes out, then close it. You might have to add more coolant at this time and then repeat. I had to repeat this process about 6 times until I got all the air out and then it ran great. Not a hard procedure, just tedious.
Take you time on a nice afternoon and do it- hope this helps you out.
^.^d
Hello my name is Greg if you give me a call at 830 370 6560 I can walk you through your problem I had the same problem with mine when I changed the antifreeze I will talk to
Sven, regarding the insulation, don't bother replacing it. Ours was coming loose and breaking into small pieces so I took all of it out.
I can't tell the difference in any increase in noise without the insulation.
The bleeding procedure is posted on beamalarm website.
Larry
Just paid a lot to have my local cummins dealer replace a major gasket that leaked oil and the oil pressure sending unit.
Plus glow plugs. And adjust the valves and injectors. Much smoother. Unknown hours but probably high as the hour meter was disconnected and the coach home based in pheonix.
Not your same motor as it has the izuzu three cylinder.
My previous servicing done by myself seemed to me to find that the hoses on the gen were slightly too short. Had to go around the head leaving an air bubble in the system.
Unknown if the hoses on ours were original but when I did it the reinforcing wires inside had corroded away.
So they ordered the hoses both slightly longer and now they fit over the valve cover and allow any air bubbles to be removeable.
But the hoses now are tighter to the compartment light.
Yes I found the pain to remove block drain which had never been touched before to drain the block which I did and I flushed it.
Now had the dealer drain the block. Replace the hoses with longer ones and replace the electrical breakers.
Under heavy gen loads I had the fan and main 45's pop a few times and their spring action felt slightly weak.
New ones feel identical but so far have not popped.
Replaced the water pump drive belt also as its condition was unknown.
Sorry for the long post but the shorter hoses made removing any air bubbles harder on our coach
And this answers the OP's coolant question how exactly?
That he may have trouble removing the air bubble in his system if his hoses are short like mine were.
Tell me what a long or short hose has to do with getting the air out of the system, the HOSE carries the coolant from point A to point B....
My hose setup had a high point on the way to the bleed valve. No continuous uphill to the bleed.
And the hoses were not long enough to allow moving the air bubble up to the bleed.
Yours may or may not have a similar issue.
Sorry I posted.,,,,
Bob... don't be sorry..... I have been looking at ours and think I may have the same issue's, just nice to know that I may now know what the fix may be.... Thank You!
You are welcome. Not enough pressure I think to force any bubble through the hoses?
Foretravel may have had a way to fill the hoses to eliminate air bubbles on the line. Or a pressure fill system?
No way of knowing.
Or back filled from the bleed with one end hose held up high?
Movement of bubbles is a somewhat function of velocity and slope, along with surface tension. Why is this generator so sensitive to a few bubbles? I assume it has a releasing cap and a puke tank. Lord help you if you switch to propolyene glycol.
I hope that green coolant you used is diesel-approved. Why did you decide to change from what was apparently ELC?
I flushed and filled my M11 a while ago with Delo ELC red antifreeze, now I want to do the same with gen and I do have 10kw Power Tech with the Kubota engine, is that same antifreeze good for gen?
As a coming up project I am probably going to switch all of our coolants to non water based Evans coolant. Lifetime installation.
Not cheap.
Lots to read on their products.
Engine, gen, and aquahot as our Aqua hot uses regular antifreeze not boiler fluid.
Like Brett posted why did you change from the factory coolant to one you have to test and change more often? That is if it is diesel approved.
Looking at Beamalarm's website my gen is completely different is is older,I don't remember having problems with air bubbles but that was 5 or 6 years ago both Cummings had old green antifreeze
Ouch! :facepalm: I woke up this morning to see all these responses to a post that I thought I deleted, soon after I posted it. I was talking through the problem with Kristi, listing all the possible causes when it occurred to me that the pump is above the radiator where I filled it - it had lost its prime. I added coolant to the upper fill and that solved the problem. I'm embarrassed about this momentary lapse, especially since it made it on to this site. I appreciate, as always, the interest that everyone here has shown in trying to help. On the plus side, it never occurred to me that there might be a different coolant required for diesel generators. I will have to check that.
I had to change the coolant, since it was due, according to the manual (I didn't have info on last change). I have no idea what the factory coolant was and the manual was of little help. The manual recommends "permanent type", which is ethylene glycol, from what I've been able to find. There is no ASTM recommendation in the manual, only J814c, which I couldn't find. John Deere recommends ASTM 4985 as the standard for their Kubota engines, as does a number of other posts in diesel forums. This type is recommended for heavy duty applications and is good up to 265 degrees. I've found nothing that precludes using ethylene glycol. The red version is non toxic and is recommended in food processing applications. As for the ELC (which I use in the main engine), I will use that next time. The Prestone product that I put in meets the ASTM 4985 standard. I'd like to know if I should change it out, if anyone has new information. Thanks
Because there is no water filter to add sca's you will have to test periodically and add when needed. My 1999 had a sticker on the coolant recovery bottle stating that Texaco extended life coolant was put in from the factory. The difference between what you are using is the OAT type doesn't require testing. I don't know if your generator is wet liner or throw-away block. The sca's are to prevent pitting in liners so if no liner the only benefit of OAT would be longer service. Maybe someone with more knowledge can give any other benefits of OAT vs Ethylene Glycol.
Craneman,
Yes, SCA is important for a linered engine. But, isn't the generator engine a parent bore engine??? If so, as long as the coolant meets the mil-specs and is checked annually for pH, wonder if he will be "good to go"?
In my post I mentioned I didn't know what type of block the newer generators have. The one in my '81 Foretravel is Yanmar wet sleeve.