Print Page - Adding a 3rd AC in the bedroom

I have read the AC topics and adding a 3rd AC. I didnt see the answer I am looking for... Has anyone added a 3rd AC in the bedroom or the living area(as it was noted in 1 topic).

The bedroom as the drop ceiling.. how did you get around that?
was thinking of tying into the fan wires and using a non ducted AC for the bedroom.

What do you all think on this topic and Has anyone been able to do this and do you have pictures of what you did

Thanks

David I can not help you with adding a 3rd AC.
I see you are from NV so i understand you live in hot part of the country ... but still you feel a need to add a 3rd AC to your 2002 U320?
For what ever reason you need a 3rd one, i would assume not all the time ... why not use a portable one and exhaust it out the window such as Portable Air Conditioner (http://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Electronics-10-000-BTU-Portable-Air-Conditioner-and-Dehumidifier-Function-with-Remote-Control-in-White-62-4-Pint-Day-LP1014WNR/204684041) however it will occupy a valuable space in your FT

Quote from: DavidS – August 24, 2016, 04:27:57 pm

I have read the AC topics and adding a 3rd AC. I didnt see the answer I am looking for... Has anyone added a 3rd AC in the bedroom or the living area(as it was noted in 1 topic).

What do you all think on this topic and Has anyone been able to do this and do you have pictures of what you did

I did a search for add air conditioner and the question has come up before 3rd Roof Heat Pump / AC unit (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16230.0)

Quote from: propman – August 24, 2016, 05:12:00 pm

David I can not help you with adding a 3rd AC.
I see you are from NV so i understand you live in hot part of the country ... but still you feel a need to add a 3rd AC to your 2002 U320?
For what ever reason you need a 3rd one, i would assume not all the time ... why not use a portable one and exhaust it out the window such as Portable Air Conditioner (http://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Electronics-10-000-BTU-Portable-Air-Conditioner-and-Dehumidifier-Function-with-Remote-Control-in-White-62-4-Pint-Day-LP1014WNR/204684041) however it will occupy a valuable space in your FT

I have a compounding issue right now and I am working on 1 event at a time to try and fix the issue with the heat..

1) it is 100 to 120 degrees in the summer time
2) I have a bladder leak so both bladders do not blow up (after the repair which is in the next couple weeks it might be ok)
3) driving is very warm .. with a box fan it is bearable right now but the bedroom is very warm when going to bed after we arrive at our destination.

fix list
1) repair bladder
2) add clear uv film to the windshield to cut the heat radiating off it.

we shall see after the repairs if its bearable after that.. cooling the unit down in this heat is not easy.

Once we arrive keeping it cool isnt a problem as we are in a cooler area usually.

Quote from: Michelle – August 24, 2016, 05:42:11 pm

I did a search for add air conditioner and the question has come up before 3rd Roof Heat Pump / AC unit (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16230.0)

I read it but didnt see where anyone actually did it. Or seen where they installed it.. Is it possible (I am sure with some time and money).

I have a non ducted AC in the garage I was going to use..

I did this in a couple coaches. The bedroom had a roof fantastic vent- I ran an extension cord- not pretty- but sweating is not pretty, either

Is the insulation in your engine bay doghouse in good condition? Also check for air leakage points which will easily overcome any any HVAC system. Is the evaporator coil and condenser coil clean?

Block of Ice and a fan makes everything Cool.

Quote from: Old phart phred – August 24, 2016, 09:18:30 pm

Is the insulation in your engine bay doghouse in good condition? Also check for air leakage points which will easily overcome any any HVAC system. Is the evaporator coil and condenser coil clean?

Yes the engine area is in great shape and the AC cool 20 degrees or more of the current interior temps..coils looked ok when I almost lost the cover on a trip.

If the issues is that the BR is hot when you get somewhere then start your generator an hour or more before you get somewhere and set the BR temp to 70 and let it run. It works.

Another trick is to open the rear hatch when you first arrive and let some of the heat out.

A big game changer for losing the heat in bedroom after trip is remove muffler and put in Resonator. Win win both ways. Our bed is now cool after a long days drive.
Ok, no smart answers please from the peanut section!!
JohnH

I am not sure what your configuration is, but it sounds like your existing rear AC is not working very well.

My suggestion is to replace your existing rear AC with an Atwood Air Command 15K unit, with heat pump. I am confident that will solve your warm bedroom problem.

We have two new Atwoods. Normally, we just run the front unit. If it does get hot, we turn the rear AC on for a while, then turn it off.

YMMV,

Trent

Have you checked your schematics to see if there are already A/C wires lying in the ceiling?

Quote from: TulsaTrent – August 25, 2016, 12:44:48 am

I am not sure what your configuration is, but it sounds like your existing rear AC is not working very well.

My suggestion is to replace your existing rear AC with an Atwood Air Command 15K unit, with heat pump. I am confident that will solve your warm bedroom problem.

Trent - did you also have to replace or add a thermostat to control the Atwood, or is it compatible with the Dometic CCC? OP has a 2002, so it would likely have the 5-button Dometic control as OEM.

We had to stay late into the summer this year in California. The temperatures were triple digits for weeks on end; "cooling" to the 90s at night. Hottest we saw was 127. With 2 A/Cs, the interior of the coach was fine. Before suffering through this, we thought we would have to do some extra insulating of the skylight or bring the slide in, etc., but, we didn't. The 2 A/Cs kept up.

The only heat problem we encountered was with the freezer in the basement bay. Towards the end of our stay, the freezer was unable to keep up. But the bay is not cooled at all.

I agree with other posters -- check the working of your A/Cs.

David it is not easy to accept that a 3rd AC must be done.

Agree with John, change to a resonator is a huge benefit for bedroom. Can even leave BR AC off most of time we are driving and BR still not hot when arrive...

And do as Roger said, run BR AC couple hours before arrive.

I do open the engine compartment when arrive, just helps cooling engine for hour.

I assume you have checked the two ACs functions as should.

As for driving, I use dash air until gets around 90+ degrees ambient....we have a small fan on the floor that points toward to front of coach, it runs when we get a bit warm, not all the time.

I am not sure that the bladder not sealing causes huge leak, but need it fixed anyway.

Then If all that fails, consider the third AC as last resort, imho.

Call if I can help David...assume all was well at your park, sorry we could not get by to say hi.

Mike

Quote from: Michelle – August 25, 2016, 06:37:34 am

Trent - did you also have to replace or add a thermostat to control the Atwood, or is it compatible with the Dometic CCC?

I originally had the 5-button Dometic control; It is NOT compatible with the Atwoods.

Each Atwood comes with its own control (and remote). The front control is located to the left of the driver where the 5-button was. The rear unit is in the bedroom, with its own control. Not quite as convenient as the 5-button dual control, but I would never go back.

Trent

Quote from: amos.harrison – August 25, 2016, 06:21:29 am

Have you checked your schematics to see if there are already A/C wires lying in the ceiling?

I have the recessed ceiling in the bedroom without boxing the area in so the inside cover will fit I am not sure what else to do.. Original question was .. has anyone done it and what did they do to make it work? Does anyone have pictures?

I planned on using the fan wires if possible but would like to know what someone else has done(if they have).

Quote from: Michael & Jackie – August 25, 2016, 10:48:54 am

David it is not easy to accept that a 3rd AC must be done.

Agree with John, change to a resonator is a huge benefit for bedroom. Can even leave BR AC off most of time we are driving and BR still not hot when arrive...

And do as Roger said, run BR AC couple hours before arrive.

I do open the engine compartment when arrive, just helps cooling engine for hour.

I assume you have checked the two ACs functions as should.

As for driving, I use dash air until gets around 90+ degrees ambient....we have a small fan on the floor that points toward to front of coach, it runs when we get a bit warm, not all the time.

I am not sure that the bladder not sealing causes huge leak, but need it fixed anyway.

Then If all that fails, consider the third AC as last resort, imho.

Call if I can help David...assume all was well at your park, sorry we could not get by to say hi.

Mike

I think the front room and bedroom bladder leak isnt helping for sure..its a halve inch leak or so all the way around the big slide and the bedroom.

when driving I have both AC running to help cool.. it has been 107 to 115 here so I cool the coach for a few hours before we leave to help with the heat.. I will look into a resonator and opening the back hatch to help with heat and see if that help.. might do some more insulation on the bed area and see if that help..

Quote from: TulsaTrent – August 25, 2016, 11:06:15 am

I originally had the 5-button Dometic control; It is NOT compatible with the Atwoods.

Each Atwood comes with its own control (and remote). The front control is located to the left of the driver where the 5-button was. The rear unit is in the bedroom, with its own control. Not quite as convenient as the 5-button dual control, but I would never go back.

Trent,

Do you have AquaHot? If so, how did you apply the Atwood furnace control to the AH? I recently installed the same Atwood & am about to run wires to the AH but would love an easier solution.

Be sure the fan wires are heavy enough to handle the current for an A/C. Also the ceiling should be framed to handle/support an A/C unit.
Good luck in your search for cooling the coach.

John

My last 3 coaches were ordered with 3 Air conditioners, one in front one over kitchen area and the other unit is installed over the bathroom area with ducting to bed room. Since these coaches were Phenix variety I can't assume that it would not work in your coach as essentially they are still from the same blood line unlike the fully changed IH. So I think its possible and although others say they are comfortable in their coach's, I travel a ton to Vegas and Arizona during the hot months and it would be almost impossible to keep my coach comfortable with only 2 units and with my dark colors. So its really an individual comfort level and with a broken slide bladder really hard to tell what improvement it would be vs the cost.

Quote from: oldgrayrider – August 25, 2016, 11:33:22 am

Do you have AquaHot? If so, how did you apply the Atwood furnace control to the AH? I recently installed the same Atwood & am about to run wires to the AH but would love an easier solution.

No AH; I do have the OEM Atwood heaters. I wasn't there when my local RV dealer (who was an authorized Atwood dealer -- over) charged me to install the two Atwoods. (About $1400 IIRC -- the original estimate was $200 each [from two different local RV service departments]. They claimed they had a lot of trouble routing the wiring, blah, blah, blah.)

I had assumed the wiring would already be there for the front AC location to the thermostat. The rear one mounts just inside the bathroom from the bedroom. A foot or so to the closet and the heater is right under there. the wiring comes out under the TV; sounds easy=peasy. The only reason I went to the dealer to install my brand new-in-box Atwoods was getting the old ones off and the new ones to the roof. Since I already paid for the Atwoods (sent FedEx from PPL), and had the 2 x $200 estimate, I was truly shocked to pick it up, after about a week, to get such a huge bill.

One lesson I relearned, is that you really need to take your Foretravel to someone with Foretravel experience. PERIOD. I don't think they knew anything about the wiring and ran all new wires from the heaters, possibly using the built-in ductwork. I sure hope this is the last time I have to learn this lesson.

Hope this helps,

Trent

Probably a lot of heat coming in the opening around the slides, maybe tape the gap shut. When we travel in hot weather about 2 hours before stopping start the gen and turn the rear ac on and open the covers on the bed so the heat in the mattress can get out and then I don't go to bed for several more hours and have not had a problem

Foretravel Owners' Forum

Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: DavidS on August 24, 2016, 04:27:57 pm