Anybody have any experience with this inverter?
AIMS Power PWRIX120012S 1200W Pure Sine Inverter with Transfer Switch
Amazon.com: AIMS Power PWRIX120012S 1200W Pure Sine Inverter with Transfer... (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TI1D5JK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
I'm considering it as an upgrade to shift the ice maker in my Dometic fridge off of the main inverter in order to save battery power while dry camping. This would also get me pre-wired for a residential fridge when/if my Dometic quits. The idle current on this one seems a little bit high for its size at up to 1.2A but that's much lower than the Magnum 2800w main inverter draws. And the internal transfer switch allows for automatic switching to shore power. At $170, with an available remote panel ($25) it seems like a good solution.
Or, would it be better to go with a smaller inverter, with lower idle current draw, and add an external transfer switch like this one?
Amazon.com: Xantrex Inline Transfer Relay f/PROwatt SW: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S5Y158/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2X8N6V4HT8DJJ)
What other make/model inverters are recommended?
I'm also now considering this Xantrex 1000w model due to it's much lower idle current draw at .5A. That's less than half the Aims unit.
Xantrex Xm1000 Pro Series Inverter 1000 Watt - - Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Xm1000-Inverter-1000-Watt/dp/B0140VRCZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1472615456&sr=1-1&keywords=xantrex+806-1010)
Is 1000w enough for most small refrigerators such as the Samsung that many RV's have?
Regarding the automatic transfer switch, is that something that you would recommend or do you simply run the fridge on the inverter all the time, even when another AC source is available? I think I like the idea of removing the batteries and small inverter from the circuit either when on shore power or the generator is running but maybe that shouldn't be a concern?
I run my refrigerator off a 1000 watt inverter without transfer switch all the time. If you are plugged in, your big inverter/charger will keep the batteries up, If running down the road, your alternator does the job.
FYI, most off the shelf inverters do not read RMS Voltage output so it's up to you to find out what it is. Up till now that meant using a Fluke Meter or something similar, enter a product that's been there a long time. The Kill A Watt device priced at $28 at Home Depot will read RMS voltage and amps. Works great in conjunction with our Xantrax HF 1800 to keep things powered up on the road.
I actually have a kill a watt, so I could use that to test the fridge if I had one. I'm just trying to make sure that I'm prepared for adding a fridge in the future by sizing a small inverter adequately now. The fridge is all that would ever be powered by this inverter. Most people appear to be using a 1000w or smaller so I think either of the 2 options I've identified should be ok. I think I've also decided that I would rather stick with a pure sine wave inverter, which drops the Xantrex Pro 1000 from my list. I don't mind giving up the transfer switch but it's already included in the Aims. The only concern with the Aims is the high idle current draw. If I can't find another PSW inverter in the 1000 watt range with significantly lower idle draw, at a competitive price, I'll probably pull the trigger on the Aims.
Do you recall which inverter you have and what it's idle draw is?
xantrex prowatt 1000. Looks like about 2 amps [25 watts] at idle. Of course your fridge uses some power
even when compressor is not running. Mine is about 20 watts.
Nancy,
My traditional use of the Kill-a-Watt is to plug it into an outlet and plug a device into it. This would tell me how much my computer or my microwave is using. How are you using it in your Foretravel?
Thanks,
Trent
I use a 3 way and plug the Kill A Watt into a empty hold and another feeds the fridge., set the screen on voltage.