I just greased my output spline with dark Mobilgrease XHP222 Special 14.1 oz Cartridge which has .75 percent moly...and then ordered a flex hose pistol grip Lincoln gun...what a mess. Is there a best grease for the chassis...or is any moly extreme non synthetic grease ok. (I can buy this Mobile grease for $4 tube locally) Also...can someone point to the correct clay based brake grease on say Amazon. I want to do the entire coach...even though it was done several thousand miles ago with some red grease...probably by Cummins...by the previous owner.
Mobilegrease XHP 222 is NLGI-2 compliant. According to Beamalarm.com, it is a satisfactory chassis lube:
http://oilgroupbg.com/pdf/mobil/mobilgrease-xhp-222.pdf
Chassis Lubrication U270 - U320 (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/chassis_lubrication_270-320.html)
Air Disk Brakes Lubrication (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/air_brakes_lubrication_and_maintenance.html)
Product: A 1779W283 (http://www.meritorpartsonline.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10154&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=A1779W283&langId=-1&catalogId=10001)
For the brake calipers I used Mobiltemp SCH32
Mobil SHC 32 Synthetic Grease -Buy Mobil SHC 32 Online (http://www.mrochemicalsupply.com/mobil-shc-32-synthetic-grease-p/mobil-shc32.htm)
Any NLGI - 1 compliant lube will work for the brakes. When we went through this issue a couple of years ago we used what Meritor recommended. Clay based.
NLGI consistency number - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number)
Brakes only need to be greased about every 100,000 miles. Much bigger problem over-greasing.
Agreed, OR using the incorrect (like chassis) grease. If you do not do your own chassis greasing, were it me, I would replace the grease zirks on the brakes with blind plugs!
Instead of going all the way, and removing zerks, we put a small cable-tie on each zerk and did not cut off the end, to bring attention to these zerks. But then if we are not greasing the chassis ourselves, we have only used MOT to lub the chassis.
I just wonder if too much is made of this special grease requirement. Isn't the main issue heat and don't modern greases handle heat very well? We had a coach's brakes greased improperly and I had it fixed but always wondered if it was really necessary. I'm betting there are a bunch of Foretravels running around with chassis grease in those brakes and none the wiser.
jor
Just came across this post and now have that sinking feeling. Last year had mobile tech come to change oil , came back from shower block to find him crawling about with grease gun !!!!
I am thinking he probably hit the brakes with same grease , what should I do now
Find out what kind of grease he used, then see what temperature it's rated for. You may be fine.
You can contact him and ask if he lubed the calipers, or crawl under and remove the zerk(s) and with a toothpick or something similar find out what's in there.
I use Lucas Red & Tacky on everything I own, with good results. I have been using it since I saw wheel bearings being packed with it at a big truck place.
http://lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_Red-Tacky-Grease.pdf
When it comes to brake lube (or not to lube) two things are important:
1. The proper grease (high temp-- clay base grease recommended by brake manufacturer).
2. The proper procedure for greasing and more importantly, to "bleed" the grease so that it does not cause the brake pads to hang up.
All very well discussed here and in the shop manual.
Not sure if I contact him I will get much information.
My initial thought was new grease gun and tube of correct grease and see if I can pump and purge it through?
Is this a DIY job?
Something like this is OK to use instead of the clay based?
AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #1 (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/synthetic-polymeric-off-road-grease-nlgi-1/)
The toothpick would be my first choice. Maybe he didn't lube the brakes, or maybe he lubed everything with
clay based.
I am going to assume he hit the brakes with ????? , but almost certainly didn't purge them .
Will try to find manual on brakes today and figure out if it's a job I can handle.
Just looking through receipts and found the guy that did last service, also found a number of records from PO including one for locked up rear brake!!!! , then others for full chassis lube from various shops.
I think I need to get to ground zero,buy correct grease and "help" an experienced brake guy do the job properly
We spend thousands of dollars to by the best coach we can, with something as important as brakes why would you use anything other than what the MFG specs, it is to easy to get the correct lube from Meritor then there are no questions about what lube was used.
Just my opinion.
Remember, greasing the brakes is a once every 100,000 mile service. So many brake systems have been damaged by over-greasing with the wrong grease. We should grease everything else every 6 months but leave the brakes alone, preventing "experts" from screwing them up by either removing the zerk fittings on the brakes or zip tying them.
I had a rear rotor that had been eaten up. After 2 different shops (1 a second time), almost burning down/up the coach with overheated dragging brakes, and about 6 coach bucks, I finally got coach to MOT and they installed new pins, installed correct grease which ended my brake hell. I feel the first guy when he replaced the rotor and pad, greased the brakes with the wrong grease which started causing different calipers to start to drag.