I know this is like talking about oil - but I really know nothing about it(silicone/polyurethane?).I'm getting a bit of rain water in and want to seal around things on the roof. I just know that water runs under bath tub caulking....have used search but didn't help me decide.
thanks much,
Jim
Try this link, I found it very useful.
John
What caulk is used on Foretravels? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28731.msg240497#msg240497)
I have found a caulk that is superb for almost everything going. It is called M1 and bonds to everything I have used it on. It is used widely by the roofing trade here and I also have fixed some bad water leaks on commercial bldgs ( while raining and even snowing).
I have just built a fountain for our RV lot and the granite and porcelain tiles are glued on with it. It stays adhered to the materials all the time(not like silicone) and I would definitely recommend it for everything on our RVs. It is made by CHEM LINK--Polymer Division and amazingly is not expensive. I get it for $9 cndn a tube.
Worth using believe me.
JohnH
Chemlink Green Sealants & Adhesives (http://www.chemlink.com/)
Thanks for the link. I shopped locally for 4000 this morning. They had 5200 but I might want to change marker lite bulbs down the line!
Jim
M1 product description from Amazon - John you are getting a WAY better price if this is the same stuff
M-1 Marine Grade Structural Adhesive/Sealant White - - Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/M-1-Marine-Structural-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B00SVFA24K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474301614&sr=8-4&keywords=m1+caulk)
M-1 Marine Grade Structural Adhesive/Sealant is a moisture cure polyether adhesive/sealant formulated for applications above or, post cure, below the water line and in areas where outgassing and solvents are not tolerated. The product is solvent free and contains no isocyanates. It will not shrink upon curing, will not discolor when exposed to UV light, and will not "out-gas" or bubble on damp surfaces as urethane sealants often do. The sealant has resilient elastomeric properties and excellent adhesion to most substrates. It can be can be used effectively in many difficult site conditions, cures in wet or dry climates, and low temperatures.
Jim, the 3M 4000UV is available at Amazon
Amazon.com: 3M 06580 Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV, White / 1/10... (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBDJWC/ref=twister_B00VFIQNUC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
I have a couple 10 oz tubes on hand and a couple of 3 oz tubes as well for small jobs when I don't want to open a big tube. If you carefully seal up the tubes they are good for quite a while.
Critical seal points are no place to cut corners.
Unless I'm missing something , their link to CRS (commercial roofing systems) has it for $138.00 a 24 pack. That's 5.75 per 10oz tube?
John, would this work for re sealing the front cap trim. I'm getting ready to do that and just received the 3M 4200 from Amazon. The 3m is listed as simi permanent on the 4200 stuff. Do you know how "permanent " the chem link product is.
Just ordered 3m 4000 from Amazon - gold plated!(gotta' be the tubing?)
Jim
west marine usually has in stock all the 3M products if you have one near you
I do not see the need to use the 3m semi permanent stuff as this M1 is perfect for that job and unless you put a sharp knife to it will NOT come apart. Now should you ever have to have that seam apart you can do that after using the M1 but not the 3M. I have it in many places on coach and it is fantastic at sealing. This has my "seal of approval" (pun intended)
I will add that in all my many years doing home builbing/reno/rv repairs etc this caulk beats anything else.
JohnH
that price would be right as our canadian price is as I said around $8 a 10 oz tube.
After just using 4 tubes of 3m 4000UV on my boat, I can tell you the stuff is very messy and though not as strong as 5200, still quite tenacious. And very hard hard to clean up. And also very had to run a finger down and make a nice bead (it's just so sticky it doesn't smooth out). But the stuff is very good. It's a sealent AND an adhesive, so beware.
You may want to check out 3m 101 sealant. I've heard good things about it.
I got a few rolls of butyl tape that I use for sealent on stuff that may come apart in the future. I think it's pretty super stuff. I bought it from here: ***Buy Bed-It Butyl Tape*** Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape)
Here is the M1 at Amazon for about $15 per tube including shipping. Worth trying out.
M-1 Structural Adhesive Sealant: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific (http://www.amazon.com/Emedco-M-1-Structural-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B013UMUX6K/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YY5ZFF0SDNG4KV674PFW)
I ordered some M1 from Amazon. The time between order confirmation email and the shipping notice was 21 minutes.
Just solved my minor leak on the driver's side cap with 3m 4000 uv fast cure. Works great, very flexible and sets up in less than an hour...available in the Pacific NW for $18/ tube at any Ace hardware.
Wow that is a rip off as at $15US I can get 2 tubes and pay the tax here.
Amazon is usually better than that. They come in White- Black-grey. At least the info at bottom of Amazon page gives a true description of how good it is. I always now have at least 2 spare tubes around and go thru it quite quickly. I repaired a roof leak on a Lawyers Bldg here 2 yrs ago while rain and sleet came down and leak was stopped right away. Go back a week later and it is as perfect as could be. The stretchability ( my word) is awesome. This stuff also seals & holds tilt up concrete walls together with a 1/2" gap between.
JohnH
oh by the way a few weeks ago I found the rubber boot on one side of my Tracker was cracked almost in 2 so I put it over the pit and cleaned it up good then coated the crack with M1. Today I checked it out (after my first post on this stuff) and the boot is still sealed up solid, try that with your 3m 4000??? And I have done over a 1000 kms in that time.
Another opinion....silicone has no place around fiberglass or gelcoat. It contaminates it and prevents the ability to ever do a repair in the area unless one grinds out the silicone contaminated area.
agree John - going to try M1 - I was just reacting to the amazon price on 3M 4000, often available at West supply, may be cheaper if you lean towards 4000. Need to find a cheaper source than Amazon for M1 - it is $9 by you, $24 plus shipping on Amazon
Although I have never used M-1, I just looked up the MSDS. It appears to be a Silylated Polyurethane asthey call it a Polyether which has attributes of both polyurethane and silicone. It should be a very good choice particularly for sealing areas that might need to be removed in the future. Its also probably easier to tool (apply with the finger) than the 3M sealants. The silicone relationship should not cause future problems with fiberglass as suggested by Krush.
By the way, 3M 5200 cleans up very easily with common paint thinner and you can dampen your finger with the thinner to lubricate it and make tooling easier.
I strongly recommend AGAINST 5200 for anything that may ever need to be redone/come apart.
Sure, I use it if I am 100% sure it will never have to come apart.
But much prefer others (Sikaflex 221 is my favorite).
One other point the M1 is paintable and I have done that too on many occasions.
JohnH
While on the subject,I'm in the process of replacing my Norcold roof vent,the vent has the black gasket,where can we get that
material and what is it.
Brett,
I used my Dap Dynaflex 230 to seal some holes in the plastic part of my new clearance lights. It did a decent job, but noticed it did shrink some as it dried/cured. Would your Sikaflex 221 do the same?
Would the Sikaflex 221 do a significantly better job for sealing around the clearance lights than my Dynaflex 230 or 3M 4000? The front ones are fairly flat, but the rear ones have an obvious gap, especially the two on the corners. Or should I try using a large sanding drum (on the light housing, not the RV) to match the curved surface?
Some of these lights have open areas on the ends, which I was planning to seal. Should I put some foam backer rod in that area first?
Thanks,
Trent
Trent,
We have some with a better background in chemistry than I. I have used it more for cap to roof joints. Some manufacturers use the black 221 to bed windshields.
Here is the PDF on the Sikaflex 221: http://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument.get/.../ipd-msds-Sikaflex221-us.pdf
Trent, on the lights, if they are surface mount then shaping them is a good idea, BUT, do not seal the bottom edge as you want an escape route for any moisture that gets inside them. If you seal it up then you will cause more corrosion of contacts etc, and ultimately it will fill with water and go into the hole for wires.
I seal around top and sides only and a dab on the screw heads as water can get past them. You only need a minute bead of whatever you are using. More does not mean sealed.
JohnH