Having trouble finding the Napa reman part number and any photos giving dummy ( me ) guidance.
Had planned to get a diesel mechanic to change unit but not finding one that I have faith in , so I am considering tackling the change myself.
Is this foolishness?
Not a real big job to change it out if you have proper tools. The lines and fittings can be tight, also be careful with any thread tape you may use,
Howdy Jimmy,
Here's a link to the p/n of re-man unit that MOT installed on our coach. Includes a couple of photos showing the very large wrenches used. Part Number Collection (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=11472.msg195254#msg195254)
Good Luck, Dave A
Great write up here (with photos) from Jim McNeece Desiccant powder in air system - anybody else with this experience? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=18448.msg126969#msg126969)
DA33100X is the Haldex reman part number.
Before I head off to Napa filled with enthusiasm and single malt , is it a one man job
Yes, but easier with a helper to hold things in position while you bolt/unbolt the unit to the coach.
The macallan, please
I was going to rebuild my Haldex air dryer but it was cheaper to buy a Bendix dryer. Being a Heavy duty Mechanic it was straight forward and I have the tools.
du
du
Will recruit a helper.
Recently became acquainted with a 15 year bowmore
Any tips ?
Mine needs to come out for service, as well, and it's buried deep. It will have to come out the bottom, and my mechanic friend has told me, one (strong) guy can do it, but better to have two, as those things are HEAVY!
I haven't located mine yet , slowly trying to take on more maintenance myself.
You're not alone, it took Captain Wolfe to explain to me where it was! ^.^d
After watching Issac from OldTown Motorcoach change mine, I'm glad I decided to have him do it. It is in a tight space and as strong as he is ( those who know Issac know he is big and strong), he had "fun" with it. Even had to take the old one to a vise to hold it and get the fittings off.
Having a reman unit put on has made a huge improvement in my air system and I highly recommend it- whether you do it yourself or have someone else install it.
^.^d
Ted
Where is yours located?
Jimmy, hears where mine is, yours should be in the same place.
Just called into Napa $288 plus $15 freight
I got a Haldex reman from Truck Parts HQ in March for $288.34 no core charge and including freight. Change out took about hour and half including replacing a bunch of zip ties while I was under there.
Are the connections a straight swap , lots of horror stories about thread tape etc
Just finished changing my air dryer. It's a different one than you have, but all the connections were the same on the new dryer. You will have to take out the fittings and put them in the new one, and mine were very tight so it was difficult getting them out of the old one. I used Permatex thread sealant that you can also get at NAPA. My new one is much quieter and works great.
Just called into Napa $244 including freight. Plus $100 core .
Also bought the 11/4 and 1 1/6 wrenches
Permatex thread sealant.
Any other tools or parts recommended?
Depends on how you want to make the 12V connections for the heater element. IIRC the reman comes with new wires sticking out, you'll need to wire it up to the current wires.
Thanks Michelle
What would you recommend?
Your dryer should be in the chassis battery compartment behind the right-rear tire.
With info obtained here on the forum I changed mine a few weeks ago by myself
no problem. I used two Crescent wrenches,
plumber's thread dope with Teflon and I removed the desiccant canister to lighten the load.
Tman
Thanks for the location info, , how did you reconnect wires and how kind did job take
Try to break all lines and fittings loose before you unbolt the dryer.
Some of them can be a problem if you are trying to hold it down and turn a fitting.
You may want a piece of pipe that will go over your wrench and extend the length about a foot.
Jimmy, it took me a couple of hours and I used solderless connectors like these;
Jimmy,if you think you had a contaminated system I would also get a isolation valve (look on beamalarm) just to be on the safe
side,I found one for about $20.Then you could clean the old one and have a spare,lastly what is a bowmore?
Scotch whiskey?
Bowmore | Bowmore Islay Single Malt Whisky (http://www.bowmore.com/age-gate?ref=/)
Thanks for all the replies, and yes , you gentleman and lady ( Michelle) correctly identified Bowmore,
It's reminiscent of a Laphroaig but the water source has less peat .
For a minute I thought you had too much and meant "boy with mower"!!!
"Too much" isn't a Scottish concept
As I recall those old Scotsman TT suspensions would collapse if you tried to move them with the tankage more than half full. But maybe were talking about something completely different here.
So, how many times can you regenerate a desiccant air dryer filter in an ELECTRIC OVEN before it becomes unstable? Or damaged? Lot of surgery suites and other critical environments go thru this constantly by blowing superheated dry air thru the desiccant filter media. What dryer brands are polluting the rv air system?
I'll bite,ZERO just buy a new one and follow Brett's advice and get the reman every other time.The only way to fully answer the
question would be to let one turn to powder in a coach.
Thinking about the difference between a air dryer installed in a "fixed" location (surgery suite) versus a "mobile" location (RV), two factors come to mind: vibration and rapid heating/cooling cycles. A desiccant cartridge installed in a motorhome lives a much rougher life, compared to one in a hospital. I wonder if this has anything to do with the dryer media, in some cases, turning into the dreaded "white dust"?
Just looking at the thread sealant, is there a sealant specifically for air lines that does not set ?
Just thinking about future maintenance
I use Rectorseal #5.
Thanks wolf
My research lead me to pick Loctite 567, but there are cheaper options for sure...
50ml Tube Loctite® 567 PST High Temperature Thread Sealant | Fastenal (http://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0150214)
Don
Just looking at the spec for rectorseal is states 100psi ?
I use plumber's thread dope or Teflon tape
on air fittings coming off my 150psi shop compressor with no problems, and I used thread dope on my Haldex.
We use Permatex 59235 High Temperature Thread Sealant on all pipe threads. Don't like Teflon tape as it can shred and move through the system.
Amazon.com: Permatex 59235 High Temperature Thread Sealant, 50 ml Tube:... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AAJTYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Rectorseal handles greater than 100 PSI AFTER it has cured (can take up to 48 hours). 100 PSI, or less, immediately for gas and water in pipes 2 inches or less.
The advantage of tapes over pipe sealants is that tapes can handle full pressure immediately, while sealants require cure time. You can also mess up connections using dope/sealants.
A service center will probably use tape over a sealant because they need to test the system at full pressure. Telling a customer the job will take up to 48 hours isn't going to bring in business. So either they are using tape, or testing at full pressure before a sealant has fully cured, or you are waiting for several days for them to complete the job because the sealant is curing.
I used yellow tape this last time when I replaced the front pressure regulator. Four wraps, and it's been holding fine.
A few of you guys recommend disconnecting hose before removing whole unit from Chassis.
Where does fitting end and hose begin
Our Haldex air dryer has pipe thread openings for air in and out. We have short adapters with male pipe threads on one end and a male flare on the other end. This adapter screws into air dryer, and the large diameter air hoses with female flares screws on the other end. Flare fittings are easily removed and attached, use no sealant and are not over tightened. It is the tapered pipe thread adapters that are difficult to remove as they are over tightened, and have been in place for a long time. Also right-angle pipe thread fittings have the additional concern to be sure they face the right direction when finished being tightened. Remove flare hose fitting, remove pipe thread adapter, remove air dryer.
Any advice on waterproof electrical connections
Take a look at Posi-Tite waterproof connectors by Posi Products.
Posi-Tite- Watertite Connector (http://www.posi-products.com/positite.html)
Chris
Just looking at the positive tite , does the connection depend on copper conductors crushed against each other in a waterproof tube ?
Note quite.
There is a metal center conducting post is the middle of the Posi-Tite connector (and in all Posi products except for the Posi-Twist product). Each end of the copper wire is crushed against that center conducting post.
The gaskets fit between that center post and the outer locking rings on each side to keep water from entering each end.
I've used these in a number of places with great success. I was first introduced to them when I had to repair the wiring on a set of electric trailer brakes. I was looking for something that was waterproof, dust proof, vibration proof, and also easy to work with. I didn't have much of a length of wire to work with on the brake drum side, so I wanted a connection that wasn't going to require me to snip off more wire if I had to redo the connection. These worked like a charm.
Chris
There are also butt connectors that not only have shrink tube on them but also solder inside. You crimp it and the heat applied to shrink also melts the solder to make the connection
The nice thing about the Posi-Tite connectors was mentioned by Chris: they can be removed and reused indefinitely, without damaging the wire. Crimp connectors (of any type) are a "use one time" solution, and you sacrifice some wire length each time you replace them.
Fitted rebuild unit this morning, went smoothly apart from one elbow that didn't want to move, but a 2ft pipe wrench with extension pipe persuaded it .
Couldn't find any leaks but will check again tomorrow.
Thanks to everyone for advice it's appreciated
Jimmy,
Was the unit held in its place just by one 9/16 bolt from underneath? I just removed everything and the bolt and it is wiggling but it is hung somewhere. Your set up and mine are the same. Looks like you had an ok time replacing it. I am struggling a bit in Rock Springs, WY 1000 mil from home.
Thank you,
AL
Jimmy,
Was the unit held in its place just by one 9/16 bolt from underneath? I just removed everything and the bolt and it is wiggling but it is hung somewhere. Your set up and mine are the same. Looks like you had an ok time replacing it. I am struggling a bit in Rock Springs, WY 1000 mil from home.
While typing this Foretravel just responded to my e-mail with "there are 4 bolts holding the air dryer in place." If i understood it correctly that means to remove the bracket that is holding the dryer up in place from the chassis rail? I am hopping there is another way, it just looks like no need to remove the bracket. I removed that one bolt from underneath and it is moving, acting like going to come out but just stuck.
Thank you,
AL
I recently did mine and IIRC it was held in place by the bolt you mention plus the stainless steel clamp that's around the circumference.
If you are struggling you should know that you don't even need an air dryer. As long as you connect the large hoses and cap off the small hose that comes from the governor you can drive and drive and drive until you get home, and replace it at your leisure. I did when I was broken down in the desert. The air will maintain at governor cut in and out just like before. Occasionally bleed off the wet tank drain for water (which you probably won't get. I didn't)
When I did the bypass, I found it necessary to bleed all three tanks (our non-slide coach has 3 total). The wet tank is easy having the remote drain valve in front of the street side dually, but the front two tanks are a pain unless you are fortunate to have remote bleed valves there as well (on my project list!). I found a fair amount of water came out of all three after a couple hours or less of driving. And another thanks and shout out to Twig and the others who first posted on where to bypass the dryer back 3 years ago when we were stuck by the roadside. Before seeing his response to my question, I knew I could bypass, but hardly knew where to start the practical process of doing it. When you are out there in the sticks alone, you aren't really alone as long as you can access Foreforum!
Don
We are all fixed up and hope to leave first thing in the morning. Thank you all for your help. Once again Foretravel friends are priceless, you almost make braking down fun :)