I have several projects for this winter that involve getting under my Foretravel. Is there any potential problem with raising it, inserting my eight 12" safety stands and leaving it raised for several months?
Thanks,
Trent
My opinion: None that I can think of.
I 2nd Chuck. Just be sure the safety stands are located under the axles and you are on level ground.
Quick edit: And that the safety stands can handle the load.
see ya
ken
I have done that a few times and as far a I can tell, hasn't done any harm yet.
Our coach was on the stands (use 8, not just 4 corners!) for over a year and a half while I rebuilt the basement framing and bulkhead joint (and wet bay compartment, much of the pex plumbing, etc.). It didn't seem to mind... It might be a good idea to shade your air springs if they will be exposed to direct sunlight.
Don
One caveat: if you use the safety stands that go next to the airbags make sure that you don't run the coach all the way up, then put in the stands and tighten them completely. When the airbags start to sag the weight is all on the stands. When the time comes to take the stands out you may not be able to raise the coach enough to get the stands out. Better idea is to raise the coach all the way up, then put the safety stands in about a half inch or inch down from the top, That way, when the coach settles you will have enough space at the top to raise it up and still get the safety stands out.
Just a matter of choosing the right length of safety stands. I had read on the forum that they should be no higher than 11" and so I made 8 of them out 2" X 2" by 1/4" thick walled square tubing. I was to find out that raising the coach to its max I could easily fit 12 &1/2" tall stands. I recommend that you raise your coach as high as you can and then measure the space between the upper and lower H frames next to the air spring. Deduct a half inch or more to determine how tall the stands can be. It is fairly important that the stands be square on the ends to be as stable as possible. If you can fit the pre-made 12" receiver tubes, that is a no brainer. Later, I bought 12" hitch receivers from Harbor Freight, though I only have four of them so far. So I use the 11" on the front and the 12" receivers on the back. One end of the receiver tubes even has a reinforcing ring making it even more stable standing on end. Even an inch more of clearance is precious when working under the coach.
While welding under the coach, I supplemented the stands by making ramps out of 2" X10"s of decreasing length to stack 3 of them for a 4.5" lift. I made 4 of these so both duels were supported in the back. This helped immensely. I include a few pictures for reference.
A word about raising the coach to the max. The aux compressor generally won't do you much good trying to raise the coach all the way up, and you might burn up one trying it (unless you have installed one of the kick-butt aftermarket compressors like I did 8) ). With the engine running at fast idle, let the pressure build until cut off. Hold down the raise button. The coach will raise and the air pressure will drop on the gauges rapidly. As soon as you let go of the raise button on our vintage coach (99'), the coach will dump air and return to travel mode. Simply hit the on button on the leveling control pane as soon as you let go of the raise button. This will turn on the leveling system and the coach should stay where you put it so you can let the air pressure build up again. I find that when the pressure starts increasing while holding the raise button and the gauge gets back up to around 100psi, the coach is as high as it will go. I can then turn the leveling system on by hitting the button just once, kill the engine and the coach will stay there long enough to place all eight stands. I then dump enough air to let the coach put some weight on the stands. Of course, you want to choose as level a place as possible for this. That is my experience at any rate...
Don
These are the 12" HF receiver tubes to which Don refers. On sale now for Chris Columbus Day! ^.^d
Class III 12 in. x 2 in. Standard Receiver Tube (http://www.harborfreight.com/class-iii-12-in-x-2-in-standard-receiver-tube-69879.html)
I bought eight of the one-ball hitches from HF. They are only 11 3/4" long. Because of the welded ball, they weight almost six pounds each. I was thinking of cutting the balls off, using something like a chop saw, but was concerned that the heat generated might weaken the structure. Would a band saw, at low speed, generate less heat?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Trent
Here you go order whatever length you need. I'd just call my local metal supply and tell them what and how many and have them cut to order. But thats me,If you don't have one around there always is the web.
http://www.speedymetals.com/ShoppingCart.aspx?add=true&ReturnUrl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.speedymetals.com%2fpc-4787-8251-2-12-sq-x-14-wall-square-steel-tubing.aspx
A band saw would be ideal and a stick lubricant would make it even easier, but even dry wouldn't be a problem. These are not as wide as the receiver tubes and won't be a stable standing on end, but having the hitch balls cut off should improve that some.
Don
Chuck,
That's a great price for these receiver tubes at HF. I bought four of them 3 years ago for $18 each. They are powder coated and work very well. One for each airbag is the best way to go for safety and less stress on the frame and bulkheads.
Jerry
Jerry, I agree - 8 safety supports is the only way to go - some other members will have differing opinions.
My only complaint about the HF tubes is the weight. I carry mine in a Sterilite plastic bin, and that sucker is heavy when loaded! Kinda difficult to slide it around the bay. I also have the 2 "push bars" that came with our coach stored in the same bin, so that adds a little additional mass.
On the positive side, 2 of these receiver tubes can be used for a very serviceable set of barbells - perfect for your morning exercise routine. ^.^d
Chuck,
According to the HF specs, yours are 6.36 pounds each. That is over 38 pounds of powder coated steel, willing to slide anywhere at the least provocation.
I thought of making a storage rack using a pair of 2" x 12" boards with spacers to allow your stands to drop down into a safe slot. That would stop the rock and rollin'.
Trent
I use aircraft aluminum pipe, 2 inch outside which fits over the steel donuts on the lower frame member for safety stands. Donuts are two feet inboard from the air bags. Aluminum is light weight compared to steel and does not rust. My safety stands are 6.5 inches long and hold the same height as 11.5 inch safety stands which are placed near the air bags. I store these eight safety stands in the drawer over the propane tank. I have left the rear safety stands in place for weeks because I park on a driveway with a slope, front end high. Front air bags are empty and coach floor is level.
Note that the front of the axle and rear of the axle safety stands are different lengths. When on level ground, the front stands on the rear suspension (rear stands on front suspension) must be 1/8" to 1/4" longer or all the weight will be on just one stand in each corner. I use 1/4" and/or 1/8" aluminum plate spacers in an attempt to have weight on each stand.
On our GV, if I remove the fiberglass panels below the front bumper, there is a 2" hitch receiver behind each panel. Our coach came with two "push bars" that slide into the receivers, and secure with a pin. Each bar has a flat plate welded to the end, which sticks out past all the fragile fiberglass body parts. I was "told" that FOT provided the bars to use for pushing a disabled coach (backwards) around the shop area. (?)
I assumed these bars were standard equipment, at least on the GV models. Photos below:
Our problem with "long" term use of our safety stands was part of the "long" time included driving many miles on the highway. We figured that the road surface had problems, but never realized we had not removed stands when we took off. We now have long ribbons on each stand and hang the ribbon outside the coach as a reminder they are still in place.
My stands are bright orange, so are pretty easy to see.
Our stands are brightly painted, but just paid no attention to them. We had put them in weeks before traveling and forgot they were there. Hoping the new ribbons will prevent our mistake.
One note of caution.
If you use jack stands or lift the couch with a jack, make sure you use a location that supports the chassis.
If you lift or support in a area that does not support the entire chassis you will hang all the weight of the front or rear on the bulk head joint. That joint, with rusted bolts screwed into the thin 1 1/2" box beam will not fair well when trying to support the weight load.
In the rear and in the front the axle (rear)or I beam (front) is your best bet.