Hello out there in Foretravel land.I need to replace the rear rotors and brake pads on the drive axle and the tag on the
2003 gv320.I do have the book with all the p/ns , but I know you folks have a much better handle on it than my book.
Any help would be appreciated.Thanks Bob
What caused such early failure.
That too is a little sketchy.The coach has 117k miles.Approx 1 month ago, the right front wheel started to smoke going down 95 in Ct.
We replaced everything in the front.(and I mean everything accept the calipers).Ok so we went up 95 on Wed and had another brake smell.This time super close to (you guessed it fire).The drive axle brakes were we believe sticking.So now we need to do the two axles in the back.It was scary to say the least.My theory is that the coach has the original brakes.When they sit a lot and the rotors rust etc
they seem to get a glase on them, and the brake pads seem to stick to the rotors. I am not sure but it seems like 13 years is enough
and I would feel a lot safer with new rotors and pads and the boss lady will still get in the coach.I drove in back home on I95 using the
air retarter and took my time.Anyones input or if you have been down this road I would be happy to listen and learn.The two previous Foretravels, 2000 and 1993 never had any brake issues.Thanks Bob
How about regular cleaning the slide pins every few years, lubricating the brake calipers and adjusting the slack adjusters. That would go a long way to keeping original brake parts working.
Also periodic driving, backing-up and stopping with retarder electric master switch turned off to exercise brake parts. Especially after coach has been sitting for extended times.
If the GV320 has the same Meritor system as the U320, it could be your slide pins are sticking. Do a search on the brake system I installed the helper springs when I checked my brakes after purchase and at 93,000 miles there was almost no wear on the pads. The pins get rusty and if you remove them and use a wire wheel to polish them they should be ok. The Meritor manual says to not lube the pins. I didn't question this and did not lube. On automobiles discs you lube the slide pins with graphite.
Good info, other than lubing the slack adjusters, they only need grease every 100,000 miles according to Meritor and over greasing has created more problems than not greasing.
Correct, overgreasing or using incorrect grease is not a good thing.
I would sure recommend the Meritor helper springs.
And, if exposed to salt/corrosion, clean and lube the caliper slide pins. That is the main drawback with the sliding caliper design (vs fixed calipers and 4 pistons).
Ok great all sounds good, I will do all of that. I have slowly been going through the coach and updating the major areas. We have only had the coach since last August.We just did all 12 airbags, radiator , front rotors and brakes, alternator, general service on coach and generator, aqua hot service$$$$$$$$$. Those rotors are toast , we will have to replace the rotors and the pads. Then we will make sure that we install the spring kits etc. and get a brake service and cleaning every 3 years. Thanks for everyone's help.Bob
Thanks Brett, I did security on your Cat engine seminar in Mass at the convention.I never got the chance to meet you, it was a little busy after you spoke, but none the less, I just wanted to thank you for helping me over the last few years, I truly appreciate it.
Best ,
Bob Willis
Bob,
Ya, things get kind of crazy at those large seminars. Must have had 30 people come up afterwords with individual questions.
Sorry we did not get a chance to visit.
Will be presenting seminars at the Diesel RV Club Rally and at the FMCA Convention in Arizona this winter. Let me know if you will be out that way and want details.
Brett
We remove slide pins, clean them, replace them if pitted, spray CorossionX, wipe it off with clean cloth and replace. We are aware of do not lub, maybe to keep them from attracting dirt.
I have for a few years now been spraying Dry silicone lube on them and have not had any issues with slide pins. I do it when doing the grease nipples on drive line etc when under it. Pins look nice and shiny with no dirt at all.
JohnH
With 100,000 mileage between brake caliper lubrication, that could mean once in 10 years or more. I think following mileage as a criteria is asking for brake problems. If lubrication procedure follows correct purging, there will not be any problems with greasing "too often".
Seeing this topic is rear brakes, I'll expound upon my recent (mis)adventure with mine.
Drove from Los Angeles to South Dakota and felt my brakes didn't seem right. My son pulled off the rear driver tires and found the rotor had broken off the brake on the driver rear (horrifying picture below). After realizing I could have been road-rash over any of the 1500 miles I just drove, we got rid of the immediate issue. We cut off the hanging rotor, made sure nothing else looked amiss, and I made an appointment at a local shop. Told them I wanted the helper springs installed as well, so they ordered both. Took 2 weeks to get the rotor, (from finditparts), and 3 weeks to get the helper springs (always takes a lot longer in the middle of South Dakota).
When they pulled the wheel, they found the new rotor wasn't manufactured properly! (there is an inset machined on the front face that hadn't been done). It was the correct part #, just a bad batch from Meritor. The Meritor guide that was in the library that came with the coach gave them the exact dimensions, so they had a local machine shop mill it out. Below is a picture of the original and the new un-machined rotor. Another day to get the machining done, then they put it on.
They removed the passenger rears to install the helper springs on that side, and found the rotor on the inside was cracked! Picture below. I wasn't driving anywhere with that. Another week for another rotor (also from finditparts), and of course getting it milled as well.
The shop did an excellent job cleaning all the parts, installing new bearings, races, and lube for the axle. Used R&D in Britton, SD.
Total cost, $2600. And yes, they used clay-based grease.
Chuck, thanks for sharing your brake rotor story. All something to be aware of...
Wow that is an adventure. I used to clean my pins every three years but moved to a two year schedule as at three years some were still sticking and very hard to remove.
Been there, done that. I had no brake problems until I was getting new tires and found a rear rotor trash. When to a place that said they knew how to work on big rig brakes. Next trip out had the dragging brake problem. After getting back had the brakes redone by a shop that worked on a lot of Firetrucks. Next trip, another dragging brake and almost fire. Took back to shop that worked on firetrucks. Found out their solution to brake problems is install new everything. rotors, pads, and calipers. Did not let them put new calipers on and then took it to MOT.
After they looked at brakes said they were adjusted wrong, had wrong grease, and pins were pitted. Replaced pins, put correct grease in and readjusted. Problem solved. I am now so gun shy I if I have another brake problem going to take to MOT or do it my self. At least I know it will be done right. I now carry big impact and 20 ton air jack
Pins on the merritor are not sealed with rubber boots. Lubing the pins will just attract dirt/dust and make life worse.
The 100,000 is for slack adjuster greasing. They are totally sealed up and my guess the 100,000 mi. recommendation is an estimate of brake cycles. The proper purging can let you grease them more often but why? Slide pins are exposed to the elements and need servicing depending on driving exposure and time.