Current pump is Flojet vsd 35 psi, 8 amp, 3.7 gpm. Poor flow.
Previous owner left a new pump in the coach. Flojet , 50 psi, 5amp, 2.9 gpm.
Old pump has 4 wires, new pump has 2. What do I lose by not having 4 wires in new pump?
You can probably get on the flojet site and find out what is a direct replacement for your old pump and get wiring diagrams.
Normally water pumps have 2 wires, switched battery positive and negative. I would examine old pump to see where how the extra 2 wires are connected.
On some pumps, the pressure switch has to be wired in series with the pump. Two wires on the pressure switch and two wires on the pump itself.
Wire one lead of pump to one lead of switch, then remaining two wires to 12 volt supply. Make sure polarity is correct.
vsd in the model number would appear to me to indicate a variable speed Drive. The other two wires probably go to a pressure transducer or sensor mounted downstream of the accumulator tank. This would be a good setup. You may have other issues that need to be addressed. Is it just one fixture that has low flow? Is there a filter downstream? How much gpm are you placing on the system? Does the accumulator have a bladder? What is the precharge psi on the accumulator? Kink in PEX piping somewhere? Pressure transducer may be bad. Etc.
Winterizing tip... I added a master on/off switch in the power line to the water pump. When we winterize the coach I wanted to be able to disable the pump to prevent inadvertant activation of the pump until the time comes to undo the winterize process. I also added an on/off switch to the basement wet bay thermostat (for coaches with an AquaHot) so the loop pump and heat exchanger fans do not come on when the coach is winterized. Otherwise you would have these run for weeks or months at a time.
Roger,
I don't understand. Were you worried a stranger would turn on a water pump switch on your winterized system? Wouldn't a label on the switches suffice? Why wouldn't you want the A-H bay heater to run if you had to heat the coach?
Hi Brett, No stranger worries. Winter storage here in MN where sub zero temperatures are expected needs some extra attention. When the water system is winterized all of the waterlines and valves are filled with potable antifreeze including the pump and the accumulator tank. It is easy to hit the wrong switch, especially in the bathroom, when I go into the coach in the winter to check on something and turn on power to the pump. My preference is that the pump does not run so a switch in the power line to the pump is a master off switch.
When the coach is in the coach house (barn) for a while in the winter it is not heated, the AH is off. There is no heat to put into the wet bays if the thermostat calls for heat. Even if you set it for zero degrees, it gets colder than that here and the AH pump and heat exchanger fans come on and will run until it gets warmer, maybe many days at a time. So a switch in the theremostat line prevents this.
With water back in the system and we are on the road, the pump is back on and the thermostat in the wet bay is on and set at about 40 degrees. Good to go.
It is just what I am doing.
Roger,
I didn't know the A-H basement fans would run if the A-H and coach master switch were off.
Brett, if the master switch is the stepwell is off then the AH and the water pump will not work. But neither will any lights nor almost everything else 12v. The optional freezer, HWH compressor, refrigerator, LP/CO detectors, the dash and the door locks still work with the master switch off. The AH is on all the time if the master switch is on. It has a 30 amp circuit breaker. Red and black 10 ga wires, un-numbered. You could cut power there, pull fuses from the AH control board or isolate a thermostat as I did. The front, bathroom and basement thermostats control fans and circuit pumps. Kitchen switches enable diesel and/or electric heating if it is required.
I check the coach during the storage periods, run the AH and the gen once a month, drive the coach once a month if there is a nice dry day. I use the AH engine preheat circuit before a mid-winter drive or heading to warm. So I would be turning the master switch on and off and forgetting to turn it off. Just disabling the water pump and the bsement AH heater circuit leaves everything else functioning. Both of these switches are in the wet bay on the passengers side. Easy to turn on or off.
Many ways to do the same thing I suppose. This made sense to me for how I use the coach.
Have been told the aquahot in the bay won't run if the thermostat in the bath is turned off. Haven't tested this.
The power switch on the kitchen counter turns on the non engine sources.
If the engine runs the waters heated.
The bathroom switch adds the bath.
Bays thermostat also runs the mid pump and fan.
Two triggers for the third zone. One for the bed and living room.
If the bay heater comes on the bathroom fan does not unless it's at its trigger point separately