Hi all. When I purchased this coach a few months ago, the tank level / backup camera did not work. However, when I first turn the coach on, before it gets hot, I can see very faint outline of what looks to be the tank level gauges. So I am hoping that the system is still good, but the 17 year old tube monitor is simply burned out. I pulled out the old Javelina Monitor last night, and I'm hoping someone with more knowledge than me can confirm I will be wiring the in the new TFT monitor correctly. In the old monitor, all of the connection wires (7 in total) run into the white connector pin on the right Picture #1 "Full" below.
Question 1) Power
I believe the small black box from Picture #2 "Power" below is the power supply for the old javelina monitor. I don't believe I need this for the TFT monitor, correct? I can simply cut the positive/ground wires that lead into this power supply (which run from the dashboard switch) and splice them directly into the corresponding wires from the power line for the new monitor?
I don't see the javelina tank level computer.... It isn't built into the monitor/power supply, is it? I assumed it is further down the line closer to the tanks. If i bypass the power supply, and junk the monitor, I'm not also junking the computer that produces the gauge readings, am I?
Question 2) AV Input 1: The monitor I am looking at comes with 2 Video RCA plugs and 1 audio RCA plug. Picture #3 "RCA Cable" is what the inside of the RCA video wire looks like. I assume the thick wire labeled "1" is the video feed and "2" is a ground wire. Picture #4 "AV1" has the incoming video wires from the first input dash circled and numbered. I should just splice "1" to "1" and "2" to "2", correct?
Question 3) AV Input 2: Picture #5 "AV2" is of the 2nd set of incoming wires, there are 3 wires total. I am assuming one of these is for audio? Anyone have any idea how these should hook into my 1 remaining RCA video plug and 1 remaining rca audio plug? (4 remaining wires, one I remove the RCA connections)
Thanks a lot in advance for your help. If anything isn't clear, let me know and I'll try to clarify.
Maybe this will help you out.
John M.
Foretravel - Javelina Monitor replacment - YouTube (https://youtu.be/M5mopEEphrs)
James,
I am not sure, but I think you have the wires reversed. I think the "thick wire" is the ground shield around the center wire, which is your video feed.
You can do a simple continuity test or just use an ohmmeter to see if the center male plug (your video feed) is connected to your "1" or "2" wire.
Good luck,
Trent
I'm with Trent, seems like the video input would be shielded.
Ah OK, I am learning. Thanks. So looking at picture AV1 - are you saying that: the thick wire (#1) is likely the ground wire, and #2 is the video feed? Or are you saying that the thick wire (#1) is likely the ground wire/shield, and it is probably covering the video feed wire underneath? If so, what is wire #2?
Maybe it will be easier to add a few RCA plugs to the existing wires than striping the wiring from the TFT monitor.
The little black device is a regulated power supply... nice to have for sensitive electronics. It takes whatever the charging voltage/battery voltage is and converts it to a steady DC, in this case, I assume 12VDC. If the new monitor's VDC requirement falls within what the output of the voltage regulator (little black device) is, it wouldn't hurt to have it in the circuit. Probably not necessary, as most of these small monitors have a range of acceptable input voltage because they have some built in VDC regulation, but the device may be useful for some other application that is more finicky about the input voltage.
Don
James,
I was referring to your third picture, "RCA Cable.jpg." On that picture, the answer to your question is, "yes."
I did not download, enlarge, and look closely at "AV1.jpg."
Trent
My replacement took out the old monitor, widened the opening, put in a new 7" TFT monitor with dual input, and replaced the camera with a new one with night vision.
I had to buy a package of BNC Male to RCA Females (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TL53Q2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and wired the monitor to the original power switch. That old monitor takes up a LOT of room!
I used the "camera in" plug from the camera to the Javalina direct to the monitor, I used the Javalina "out" plug to the 2nd input.
Only actual wiring was to remove the monitor wiring, attached the ground, and power to the switch. I used the original video cable in the back to the camera with the BNC adapter, and used the old camera power wire. That way the system all turns on through the original monitor power switch.
Had to use my dremel cutting disks to remove the camera from the mount because it was welded on. Cleaned it up, repainted, and set the new camera in so I can barely see the ladder so I have a good reference. The end of the green marks on the camera is 15'.
Hi Chuck,
Which 7" monitor did you purchase?
The Javelina computer is a rectangular metal box mounted on a plywood panel that slides vertically inside the doghouse.
Geoffh,
I purchased this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OI4P1I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) through Amazon.
That one is only good to 32 ft. by the description.
You can use existing wiring, it does not have to be wireless.
What about the reversing transmitter? is there a hard wire way around that?
Do not know, mine turns on and off with ignition. I like it on all the time to keep an eye on the toad.
Sorry I thought it was a image reversing item, not the back-up lights. I leave mine on all the time too to keep an eye on the toad.
Thanks chuck,
I have just ordered the unit.
In case anyone ends up stumbling upon this while doing something similar - we got this all working so I wanted to share.
Big thanks to Brett for the location of the computer. Once we pulled it from the doghouse, the wires were very simple to track.
The wires in the picture AV1 ended up just being the shield and video wires from a coaxial cable. The "select" switch between the tank gauge and backup camera tells the Javelina computer which video to feed through this line, so your new TFT monitor only really needs one video input if the computer is still working. I cut off the RCA connector from one of the video inputs on the new monitor, and spliced those wires directly in.
The mystery wires in picture AV2 that had me so worried were just a bunch of CRT monitor adjustment wires that ran through the old 9T6 monitor into a knob on the dash. Presumably they were for brightness or tracking, but either way they were no longer needed.
We also kept the regulated power supply in the monitor power line based on Ron & Tys advice.
Important note: Because we replaced a CRT monitor, the resulting image came in mirrored over the Y axis. So make sure the TFT monitor you buy for something like has a built-in setting option to reverse the image from left-to-right.... otherwise you are in for some fun developing new muscle memory while trying to back up.
End result: When we turned the monitor on, we celebrated our small victory when the Javelina computer was still working and showed the gauges on the screen..... for about 30 seconds before the computer 'went crazy' and faded to a combination of grey screen and random numbers and letters. I'm hoping that just means the computer will work for the first half minute until it 'gets hot' and dies. That would work for now, because the backup camera does fully function, but we'll see how long the Javelina computer will let us squeeze out the last bit of her life. I've heard good things about the SeeLevelII system, but I don't think it includes the option for a propane tank feature.
Thanks to all for the help.
FYI, we have two SeeLevel displays, a 709 in the utility bay and a 714 inside the coach. Both will show propane levels, provided your tank has a functional sender in it. The 714 will show levels for all the systems at the same time and stays on as long as it gets power. The propane level display of the 714 is shared with the house battery bank voltage display and toggled via a button. Ours is powered of the switch that is by the door. The 709, on the other hand, only shows one level at a time and requires a button press to do so. The 709 in the utility bay is primarily use when dumping and flushing.
Don