I need to work on my disk brakes they don't grab very well and I want to replace old pads they are 20 years old and I'm sure they are extremely hard. So on my 96 U 320 what info do I need on front and rear Meritor disk brakes to order parts?
I gave the part store FleetPride my front and rear Meritor axel numbers. They figured out the brake pads.
Foretravel gave me a part # Kit15625pm for a set of pads, sound right?
I wouldn't buy any parts just yet. If you are only noticing that your brakes don't grab as quickly as you like, the problem could be as simple as your slack adjuster being out of adjustment. Download the Meritor manual and look at the procedure to tighten it.
How do I get the correct manual? here are some pictures does this look familiar to anyone ?
Barry has the Meritor technical:brakes:start [ForeForums Foretravel Motorcoach Wiki] (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=technical:brakes:start) maintenance on his site. When the slack adjusters are too loose, you end up with your exact problem of not having enough initial grab (I made mine too loose the first time I adjusted it and had to tighten it up after driving). They are supposed to be "automatic" slack adjusters which adjust themselves but after 20 years and minimal maintenance, they need a little manual adjustment.
Edit: that is a good shot of your slack adjuster in the first 3 pictures. Probably would be good to grab some cans of brake cleaner and put a plastic tub underneath to catch all the crap and clean them up.
X2 on cleaning them up, also looks like the brake pins could use some attention as well.
What air pressure does your coach show on the dash gauges?
The D2 controller on ours was too low.. less brakes.
Changed the part to a 110/130 one and it was a noticeable help.
Separate from the correct condition of the brake parts of course.
The surface of the rotor in that last picture looks suspect. I don't know if it's just the camera angle or not but it looks wrong from here. If you read through the manual there is a measurement of how far the slide pin sticks out to gauge brake pad thickness but really I would suggest pulling the wheels and checking brake pad condition.
Robert, or anyone else:
I have been thinking of finding a product to clean some of the grunge off of some of the grunge collecting areas in the engine compartment. I have also heard of using carb cleaner, gasoline, and acetone. Are any of those products better or cheaper than brake cleaner? Is there another product that might even be better?
I do have one of those small Ryobi presssure washers. Would that be useful for cleaning the really grungy (on low pressure)? What product would be best for mixing with the water to clean the grunge?
I also have one of those air pressure devices that can use a fluid product with air for degreasing areas. Would that possibly do a better job?
(Another reason I am planning to put my RV on safety stands for the Winter.)
Thanks,
Trent
Original gunk works great. Be cautious with a pressure washer.
If your brakes haven't been serviced regularly, I recommend having an expert Meritor tech service the brakes while you watch. I've always had FT service my brakes every two years. No components have needed replacement in 165,000 miles.
To clean engine, spray gunk, let soak, brushing thick areas, spray off with hose at low pressure(the hotter water the better). Repeat until clean. Or take it to a Cummins shop. They clean engines all the time.
Strong cleaners are strong on plastics and rubber too. For most degreasing, regular citris or simple green works pretty well.
Tightening slack adjusters is simple. It used to be part of required education for CDL. Remeber there is a latching pawl/collar you have to release if you tighten too much. I usually make sure that is free first then snug up on the slack adjuster and back off slightly. Parking brake must be released when doing it.
Other problem could be glazed up rotors. Drive with retarder off and do some heavy stops from high speed.
Great info I have been looking at Berries info and pictures and I think I will order pads Kit 15625PM $187 for fronts and same for rears and will install helper spring Kit 15018 4 kits $ 65.00 I Think it will be around $465 free shipping and the pin maintenance is something I will do regularly. ? Any other suggestions also rear rotors are fairly new not many miles 3 years ago. Also in Barrie's pictures it shows changing pads on a U320 he used a support to loosen lugs, What is that thing? This photo was Phil Bostrom
Get one or two sets of the pins. The chrome pits on them. You can grind the bubbles off, but its good to have a set or two just in case. You'll probably need them.
Check Ebay for pins,found a set for $80 a few months back.
There is a label on it hope someone else knows where to find one. It would have made it much easier to torque my lug nuts. I used my son to hold up the end while I torqued.
I keep reading how to adjust brakes and I can't quite get it, It talks about length of rod and clevis , Is there a simple explanation on setting slack adjusters ?
Actually yes there is an easy way. Block your wheels, build air pressure and release parking brake, remove the adjustment stops 3/4" plug on the side of the slack adj that keeps the adjuster from backing off, then turn the square adjuster until the pads are tight to the rotors then back off 1/2 turn replace the adjustment locks your done that should give about 1 1/2" of slack. NOTE do the front first to get comfortable with it you don't need to realease the parking brake to do the fronts and they are eaiser to get to.
I'm also interested in the lug nut wrench support device.
Thanks,
Michael.
Your pads are probably not bad.
Rotors glazed normally.
Plus too low air pressure to push on the brake pads to maximum torque effect.
As the D2 valve I asked about wears and gets oil soaked it stops building air pressure too soon.
If your top pressure is around 110 psi or less and the retarder is off it takes a lot of pressure on the pedal to stop,
At 130 max pressure the brakes stop much better without the retarder.
Plus I turn off the retarder a lot in non crowded areas and exercise and warm up the brakes while driving or before a down grade as they are cold blooded.
And the get rusty sitting.
The pins and their helper springs are a separate deal.
The D2 pressure controllers are inexpensive and come in various pressure ratings.
The highest is the 110-130.
Low pressure (85-100) makes the coach much harder to stop
Have good PSI I aired up system-raised coach up on safety blocks,blocked tires adjusted front slack adjusters,went to back released parking brake crawled under back and passenger side was slow to come off all the way then settled same on driver side is that normal then I set rear slack adjusters.
They can be a little slow to release when you push the button in but they need to retract quickly when the brake pedal is released. Did you measure the stroke when done to verify adjustment?
I haven't seen that support rod before but I use a jack stand to support the extensions when I am loosening the lugs and adjust the height of the stand to match what I need.
D2 governors are adjustable. To increase pressure, rotate adjuster under its top dust cover.
@prevostart@craneman @MichaelU295@its tobySeems the Amazon user was not too pleased with this device. I like Derek's idea of using a jack stand (above). ^.^d
http://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-32610-Wrench-Support-Stand/dp/B000TXVMX2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSuDxjs0Jk4
Does anyone have caliper pin part # and bushing # called meritor and they needed axle #
Thanks Chuck, I just ordered the tool through our Forum link. I have several Ken-Tools tire tools and am happy with all of them. Don't know what issue the person who left the negative comment was having, I have a Snap-On hood holder that uses the same washer hold system and you can't move the rod without releasing the washer.
Thank you Chuck very much. I've been searching for that device for a long time.
Thanks,
Michael
IIRC KIT15016 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meritor-KIT15016-Air-Brake-Caliper-Slide-Pin-Retainer-Kit-MD268-Semi-Truck-Bus-/331915988622?hash=item4d47bc0e8e:g:YeYAAOSwRgJXkjuM&vxp=mtr) is the part number for our slide pins.
I don't think there is a bushing involved, could be wrong, if so it will be posted.
When I cleaned the caliber slide pins, I did notice bronze bushings in the caliber castings. To my knowledge they are not replaceable and are there to separate the pins from the caliber castings which can rust. I doubt that these bushings would sustain sufficient wear from brake action to ever warrant replacement. I cleaned the bore of the bushings with a circular bronze wire brush.
I think that if I did not have either one I would look at the hand crank devices used to remove lud nuts.If I had a 3/4" torque
wrench I would go with the stand.
The stand came yesterday, on a Sunday no less. It is very strong, I will test it as to see if I can make it slip as the one negative comment said. The top of the outside pipe is cut at an angle, so the washer drops on one side and locks the internal pipe. I could make one, but for the time and money for materials it isn't a bad deal. I have the 3/4" 600 lb. torque wrench which I used in my heavy equipment repair occupation.
Something like the below, with a piece of angle welded to the top may give better support than the angled washer.
V0056 Basement Floor Jack - Maximum Height 16 inches (http://rigging.com/lifting-jacks/basement-leveling-jacks/basement-floor-jack-maximum-height-16-inches.html)
If I have any problems I will return the one I bought through Amazon and try that one.
1/2 IR cordless electric impact will do the lug nuts. If not, get one of the $50 lug nut multipliers off the internet. They work great.
The Wrench Support Stand pictured in an earlier post is from Kentool. They make all kind of tire changing products for heavy equipment. NAPA carries the stand. Product # SPC-32610. Kentoool #32610. Demo video at Ken Tool - A Leader in Automotive Aftermarket Tire Repair Tools - Home (http://www.kentool.com). NAPA price $67.00.
I used the stand several times and makes changing a tire a one man job.
Phil
See reply 5 and 32 bought mine on Amazon $49.00