I looked at Beam Alarm's page on Meritor Slide Pins and have a couple of questions.
Do I just have to remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut to be able to pull the pin with a 3/8-16 bolt?
Is there a particular torque on the castle nut when tightening?
Yes. Mine pushed out without using the puller bolt. You push the bolt in until the pin's flat clears. I didn't look up any torque just tightened and put cotter pin in.
The threaded part that the castellated nut is on is connected to a wedge and the nut pulls the wedge up in place. You loosen the nut and then have to push the threaded part of the shaft into the bracket to allow the pin to slide.
How about wheel lug nut torque................front and rear axles the same (no tag)?
I torque mine to 450 lb. You have hub centering wheels on your coach.
http://www.webbwheel.com/pdfs/literature/TorqueBrochure0409.pdf
Same torque for hub piloted and for stud piloted. 450 plus or minus 50. On stud piloted I torque the inner to 480 and the outer to 450 to decrease the chance of the inner spinning with the outer if you remove it later.
If you lube the studs the torque is less, about 350#
Alcoa recommends lubing the studs and washers.
We lube threads with anti-seize and then wipe off excess with rag. No more broken studs when removing nuts.
Budd wheels, you can get away with that. Not recommended for hub centering wheels. I don't know the physics for this, maybe someone else can explain
Stud piloted wheels the inner nut or outer stud is very prone to seizing onto the inner stud lots of thread contact in there but too much lube can cause the outer stud to hydraulic lock when tightening leading to issues. I believe the concern on hub piloted wheels has to do with anything trapped between the rim face and the hub can and will do the same thing it takes such a little piece of corrosion or paste to hold the wheel out of place on the hub and cause it to work loose