I have a 2005 U270 and my Foretravel Power Line Monitor display panel is giving false high voltage readings ( 167 to 171 + or -). FOT after checking voltages in inverter bay confirmed unit is not functioning properly as the readings they obtained were normal range. They also advised there was no fix and no replacement. I have an exterior Progressive EMS-PT50C and it confirms normal readings.
MOT also confirms no fix but suggested installing a voltage monitor in the panel without the neon lights for polarity ( By the way, my neon light bulbs still work after 11 years). So far I have been unable to find out who makes the panel or anything about it.
My question is has anyone replaced the Power Line unit in part or whole panel and if so where did they get it, etc?
Would appreciate any guidance.
Regards,
Frank
I just installed an EMS-RDS in that area, gives all the info, plus. Just need to pull a phone type wire to the area.
Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea (http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-remote-display-switch)
Frank, this happened on my 2001 as well.. I went about diagnosing the problem and when I disconnected the powerline monitor it seemed to reset and still is working several years later.
So disconnect the land line power and the inverter. Remove the screws holding the powerline monitor in the panel and carefully pull it out. There will be two electric cords with 120v plugs on the end plugged into a duplex outlet. Unplug each plug keeping track of which plug came from which outlet. Plug them back in. Replace the powerline monitor nd the screws. Plug in the land line and see what happens.
Worth a try.
Frank, contact http://WWW.Flight Systems Inc and tell them what your issue is. They repaired my board and others on this forum have used them also.
Perfect timing!!!!! I think that my control board has went kaput as well.... little dot lights still work but gives reading of 155 to 175 on each leg.......
will try the un plug-re plug and see what happens.
Roger,
My Power Watch went out the other day. I pulled it and could not detect any power coming into the lines feeding it. It wasn't plugged into any duplex that I could tell to unplug and reset. The outlet above the dining table also had no power. No breakers or GCFI circuits were tripped and all the other outlets were working okay. It was the same situation whether on shore power or generator. The inverter is working fine on all circuits. The electrical diagram A-2700.03 says it is wired direct and on circuit No. 1 in the breaker box. I couldn't tell where the wires run back from the dining table overhead cabinet to the breaker box, the inverter transfer relays, or the transfer switch. I checked all the wiring to the boxes under the bed and couldn't see any broken or burn't wires. I also unplugged the land line and reset the breaker on the generator. Is it also necessary to unplug the inverter? I'm still scratching my head!
Thanks,
Jerry
Jerry, it is very hard to assume any coach is exactly like another. My experience is that they are usually not especially with the difference in the ages of our coaches. I hope you can figure your's out.
Coaches in this year range have a PowerLine Monitor. It is likely different from a Power Watch. Even the 2005 may be different from our 2001.
I have a switch on the controller to turn off the inverter. If I am working on the 110v system and absolutely want to be safe I disconnect the neg cable from the house batteries. Inverter cannot invert and generator cannot start. Be safe.
Thanks Roger,
I'll turn off the inverter and disconnect the house batteries and see if that tells me anything.
Jerry
Jerry, you are confusing the power watch meter with power line monitor, the power watch should be on a breaker in the main panel at the foot of the bed, it only monitors 1 line in the coach, the power line monitors line 1 and line 2, my power watch meter is on the same breaker as the fridge.
I purchased two power line monitors from EBay a couple of years ago. I have now sold our coach. If anyone is interested in having them, I will dig them out of storage, test them, and try to post some pictures. I listed them in the classified section a few months ago and no one was interested.
Larry
Larry,
I would be interested in one. Do you believe they are the same as used in the 2002 U320?
Jim
308-440-5154
I will post pictures tomorrow. I have to go to my storage unit, find them, have my spouse take pictures, and figure out how to post the pictures. They are the power line monitors used in almost all Foretravels in the 2000 - 2004 model years.
Tom and Jim, you are first in line and if you want them, they are yours. They are free including shipping. Let me post the pictures and then let me know you would like to have them.
Larry
I also would be interested in the monitor if the others fall through.
Regards,
Frank
I would like one if I am not too late happy to pay postage etc
Thank you Larry,
I will take one and Tom the other?
Jim
Woops... too slow on the draw again, will see if I can get mine rebuilt
Has any put a Lippert Components line voltage monitor insert using same opening?
Flight repaired mine after I was told it was toast. Very quick turnaround time. David
Troubleshooting and Cross-Reference Guides | Flight Systems, Inc (http://www.flightsystems.com/troubleshooting/)
I'm contacting Flight Systems to get mine looked at. Thanks for the pointer. My unit has the same symptoms as others have mentioned (extreme high reading on one line and low on the other) but I found that it works fine on generator power and after removing the unit, I tried it connected to house outlets and it works fine there too.
I mailed power line monitors to Tom and Jim. I hope they work. I tested them at the house and they showed the correct voltage and polarity. However, I never tested them when installed in the motor home. Strange they can work at home with 120 volts, but not in the motor home.
Larry
Thank you, again.
Mine arrived yesterday. The polarity lights seem to work, but both voltages read very low. I'll open it up and see if the adjustment screws work.
Update to problems with the monitor. I found an open ground on my shore power plug, fixed it and now voltage meters work fine. (It had been replaced a few months ago and the tech who put it on, didn't do a very good job.) But I never got the green lights showing open ground. I may have Flight Systems look at it to make sure it is working properly.
Bill,
All I have is a Power Watch monitor as you come up the steps on the side of the overhead cabinet above the dining table. I pulled the meter and checked it on a good power source and it worked just fine. Then I bought a signal tracer from HF recommended by Pierce and used it to locate how the wiring runs on circuits 1 and 5. It proved to be invaluable since James T. at Foretravel didn't have one for my rig. I hope they have wiring diagrams for the later models otherwise you'll have to take things apart to see how the wiring runs.
Circuit 1 connects the bedwall outlets, the vanity overhead, over to the Power Watch Meter and then to the outlet above the dining table all on the right side. Circuit 5 connects the kitchen outlets, TVs, Hide-A-Table outlet, and the right exterior outside. I had to take the bottom shelf and panel out behind the GFI outlet in the closet behind the toilet to get to the connections. I also had to remove panels in the overhead cabinet above the dining table and in the bedroom to get a look at the romex. All with no success until I removed the vent at the bottom of the bedroom vanity and shined a light in the space under the shower. My suspicions were correct. I found the romex running from the bathroom GFI circuit back under the shower stall to the bedroom vanity outlet had a burned spot disconnecting the power to it. This also cut the power to the Power Watch Meter and the dining overhead outlet. I also found a couple of droppings but no carcass. Mystery solved.... a dirty rat!
Now all I have to do is run new romex from back of the bathroom GFI to the bedroom vanity outlet and everything on that circuit gets power. Whew! Glad the black wire in the romex burned all the way through to cut the power on that circuit and nothing else.
If you have a dead circuit and no breakers tripped it could be a rat tried to have lunch on the romex wiring and created a hot spot.
I'm lucky the wire burned through and the coach didn't burn up!
Jerry
I know this is old but I wanted to update on my power line monitor.. I was only getting a glow on 1 light on each leg and a slight glow at that.. If anyone is interested just pm but I have a guy that fixed it for me.. working great .. cost was 150.00 plus parts..
If it's just the lights, not the readout, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks
Power Line Monitor Is On The Fritz (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=9866.msg44714#msg44714)
Well I finally got around to replacing the wiring to the line 1 circuit which has been out of commission for the last 6 years. I also had to replace a new green led for the Powerwatch meter. https://www.zoro.com/dayton-raised-indicator-light-green-120v-22ny50/i/G8489214/
It took 50 ft of 12-2 yellow romex and two splices with wago connectors. I had to take apart a lot of cabinetry and carpet trim to pull the old wire and ended up running the the last connection around the bed frame. I cut because I couldn't pull the original line that ran from the bed outlet on the drivers side under the floor and the shower pan. I was able to pull the new wire from the Powerwatch in the cabinet above the stairwell back to behind the toilet and then under the shower back to the bedroom vanity. I then had to go up through the vanity to reach the the outlet in the cabinet next to the vanity. The second splice went from that outlet back down inside the vanity to the floor and around back to the bed outlet to complete the circuit!
The Powerwatch and all the outlets on line 1 are tested correct and working. All that is left to do is to install some baseboard moulding. I don't know why that line went out originally. I remember hearing a pop when it happened. Only the bed outlets were working and the other two were dead along with the Powerwatch. A dirty rat? (never did find one) Can old romex develop a hot spot over time?
Jerry
Odds of the wire going bad on it's own are slim. It is possible that rat ate the insulation and wires shorted together and then burned in two. Other possibility is a splice went bad and you did not find it.
Instead of using the wago connectors I would make the connection up in a junction box and twist the wires together, then use a good red wire nut over junction and twist it on tight. Almost all recess cans come with Wago connectors. We always told our crews to cut them off and make a joint with a wire nut. Whenever we had a service call on recess not working, the first thing to check was bulb and then the connection. Most time the wago was the problem.
Turbojack,
Thanks for the tech advice on the connections and junction box. The wagos I used were the 3-wire lever type and are easily removable for reuse. I only used them for testing purposes when I took the pictures. The two splices I did will be upgraded to the twisted wire and red wire nuts. I will also use a junction box for the others splices.
Jerry