Another one for future searches. I needed comfortable access to the rear. As other members have done I made up some drive-onto blocks. Each one has three pieces (4', 3', 2') for a total of 36' of 2X10s. This setup lifts the back 4 1/2" so along with the 12" Harbor Freight receiver hitch tubing the rig is nice and high and easy to work under.
jor
Nice!
What is "12" Harbor Freight receiver hitch tubing" ?
Thanks,
Michael
It sure made my life easier when was welding underneath! ^.^d I also screwed down wheel chocks to the outer two ramps to make it easier to place the tires where I wanted them. Once up on the ramps, I blocked the tires from behind... I didn't want any possibility of movement while I was underneath!
Don
Michael,
You can buy 12" long 1/4" steel square tubing or a 12" Harbor Freight receiver hitch extension to use as a safety block. You need at least 4 of them - some say you should use 8. Sometimes one is cheaper or easier than the other to procure.
Rich
When we "po' folk" on early coaches that had no leveling jacks, I'd made a set of those, as well. ^.^d
Wonder if 2" drilling pipe would work?
Something like this Class III 12 in. x 2 in. Standard Receiver Tube (http://www.harborfreight.com/class-iii-12-in-x-2-in-standard-receiver-tube-69879.html)
Michael, I think this was a little confusing because 2 different issues are being addressed but it sounds like 1. The wood blocks go under the tires. The receiver hitches block vertically between the frame & wheel assemblies, next to each airbag, to maintain height when the air bags deflate. 4x4 fence posts cut to length can work as well. Both combined keep the coach body raised high, safely.
I should have been more clear in referring to the safety blocks. They are just like the one David referred to above. A little cheaper at Harbor Freight. As others have indicated, lots of different ways to do it. I like the HF tubes because they have a lip on one end which makes for a nice stable position and they are painted or powder coated.
jor
Awesome. Thank you all.
Michael
Jor, so 12" will fit in there for safety blocks? How thick is the HF tubes?
John
Northern Tool 2" square x 48" receiver tube is $24.99. Three cuts and you have 4 safety stands (blocks) for $6.25 each. Maybe some freight as well. Free shipping to a store ner you (if there is one)
Ultra-Tow 2-Inch Standard Weld-On Receiver Tube with Collar — 48in. Length |... (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612683_200612683)
Older thread on same subject of safety blocks: Working Safely around your Foretravel (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10632.0)
To each their own.... ^.^d
4x4 post 7423 pounds vertical crush x 2 = 14846 per front wheel
4x6 post 11723 pounds vertical crush x 2 = 23446 per rear wheel
I used cedar which is higher.. and not wanting to max anything 10" rise
There typically more live weight in structures than a static-lift AND not an 8.5' measured for this illistration.
Therin, $12 bucks for an 8ft length
REFERENCE
https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/
I'm not "jor," but the 12" Harbor Freight tubes fit well for me. They appear to be the same thickness as a typical receiver hitch.
I went to a weld shop and had them cut (8) 2' x 2" x 1/8" square pipe pieces. Total was about $45.
For reference, I just looked up the architectural column load rating (Steel Tube Institute of NA) for a steel pipe 2" x'2" x 1/8" (actually 0.116") for a 1' long piece, and the allowable columnar load rating is 24 kips, or 24,000 lbs, so 2 of the 8 blocks would support 48,000 lbs . More than your total rig....
It might, but the square tubing is more stable. I had 11" pieces cut then spray painted them orange so they stand out when in place. It also helps to remind me.