I am starting this project; I have tried to research the posts concerning this.
Question: Tom McCloud mentions using o ring grease when reassembling. Did anyone else use any kind of lubricant when doing this, or should they go back together dry?
Thanks, Mike
O-ring grease helps prevent damage to o-rings when reassembling. Putting things back together dry you run the risk of abrasion/tearing due to dragging the surface of the o-ring and causing a leak. This is especially important when the o-ring is making a seal in a screwed-together connection.
Thanks
In my thread entitled "Working On My Six Pack" I recommended using Super Lube for this purpose. See Reply #35:
Working On My Six Pack (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=27491.0)
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube: Science Lab Cleaning... (http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI?ie=UTF8&tag=foreforums-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957)
And I am referencing your post as I go.
Mike, I am in the study phase as well. I just crawled out from under my coach. I am looking at what is involved in taking the wires and air hoses off, prior to removing the two bolts connecting the aluminum block to the frame.
I am feeling a little intimidated.
Chuck, How did you remove the electric solenoids off the manifold? Does it just pull off?
See Reply #53 and Reply #56 on Page 3 of this thread:
Brand New Replica HWH Plungers (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=27598.50)
Steve, one thing to remember is that if you DO NOT mark the air line when removing them you stand the chance of getting some mixed to the wrong valve ports. When I did it I used small coloured ty wraps-one on the alum block end of fitting and one on hose (same colour) I found it much better to take them off as it does allow far better access to take off solenoids. Also doing one at a time ( take off- rebuild- replace) again makes sure you keep things correct especially if Tag axles are involved.
Remove air lines before taking those 2 mounting bolts out.
I used plumbers silicon grease to lube the O rings but any quality grease will do even vaseline. It is as Michelle stated just to stop any abrasion of the rubber. Clean the faces of valve block were the solenoid came off too.
John H
Parker makes a grease just for this.
http://www.bac-online.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=SUPER-OLUBE-2OZ
Must be good stuff...they sure are proud of it! :o
Each owner who elects to rebuild their own six packs will have to address one basic question: do I rebuild the manifold in place on the coach, or do I remove the manifold and do the rebuild on a work bench? The answer will depend on several variables. Where is the six pack mounted on your coach? How easy is it to access the six pack, and how much room is there around it to work? To do a good job, you need to be able to see clearly what you are doing - this is not something you want to do "by feel". You need to have the "operating field" surgically clean to avoid getting trash in the manifold ports. You need to carefully inspect the condition of the manifold "seats" where each valve body is mounted. If these areas are corroded or scratched, then they must be smoothed out as much as possible before the newly rebuilt valves are installed.
I feel that removing the manifold makes the whole job easier, and reduces the chance of making mistakes - but that's just me. Because of the way the valves are spaced on the manifold, it may be impossible to rebuild them "one at a time". You won't be able to get a wrench on some of them due to lack of room. In this case, you may have to remove all 6 valves, rebuild them, then reinstall them. This is especially true if you try to do the rebuild under the coach with the manifold bolted in place.
Crawl under your coach (safely blocked up, of course) and study your particular setup. Then decide how to tackle the project. If you remove something, mark it like John H said, so you get it back in the right place. If you remove the air hoses and leave them hanging overnight, cover the open ends with masking tape to keep bugs and trash out. Take some photos before you start, if you (like me) need help remembering how stuff goes back together.
It's not a hard job, but it can be a challenge depending on your skill level. Take your time, don't rush it - you'll do fine. 8)
I found that the hardest part was getting up to where those blocks are placed- stupid locations. Both Barry (Beams) and friends C Coach and mine are tough to wiggle up to if you have any Dexterity issues, and I am lucky to have my Pit as well. With hoses off and bolts out the plate drops almost to ground level so even if you are sitting under the coach it is doable for most. This is in the low level of expertise needed to replace the parts, just dammed awkward.
JohnH