I have a 1992 Foretravel Unihome. The LP gas detector finally died and when I took it off it was from 1991 (really old). I saw a replacement looks flush like the one that was in my RV. It says it fits most Fleetwood or Winnebago. So I searched the internet for a Foretravel model of some sort. Nothing. The one I see is called a Safe Alert. Catalog # 56358. Will this work?
I appreciate your input. Just me trying to keep my RV working good.
Thank you,
Yolanda
I did some more reading on this. It seems I need a Safe Alert co/propane detector model 70-742-R-Kit to replace the old CCI controller model 7719. The Safe Alert model says I have to replace the solenoid because it does not work model 7719. Bummer. Is this my only option?
Detector: I believe that is the same detector I used to replace mine in a 95 and a 97. Probably the same as yours. It's the closest in size to the original. I had to make a little patch to completely cover the hole.
Solenoid: Many of us have either eliminated the solenoid altogether (my choice) or disabled it by removing the little pintle. Might as well replace your LP regulator at the same time.
jor
Had the same problem on my 96,I put a toggle switch next to the detector that way I can still turn the propane off from inside the coach plus I didn't have to fool with any piping,move the switch up for on down for off.
We replaced ours last year with a Safe Alert, the same as Jor's. It fit right in, but the PO had modified the housing, already. We had a hard time finding it (I think we found it in Canada!) and, yes, I think our gas guy had to do some fooling around. I don't see a model #, but I can search my files, if you need further information. We test ours with a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a rag, don't waste good whiskey! ^.^d
Bookmarking this one....mine is the original from 1989 and is working fine but is SUPER sensitive so I've been thinking a replacement is soon around the corner....
You've got your money's worth! I show ours was replaced in '03 and, as said, last year. Ours has had the solenoid removed, as well.
Rod,
I replaced the CCI model 7719 with a Safe-T-Alert 70-742-R-Kit-BR from American RV Company RV Parts Accessories Appliances Repair & Service | American RV Company (http://www.americanrvcompany.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjwlpbIBRCx4eT8l9W26igSJAAuQ_HGe9c4TTe7yUt9EalStm1iONKVifZUPQglbE_Gt6KeRBoCSb7w_wcB) The new one has a solenoid that gets a continuous 12 volts and stays warm to the touch. It takes about 10 minutes to reset the alarm but the solenoid is on as soon as there is power. The detector is a 4 wire instead of three and you have to add a ground to the chassis or the negative post on the battery. I got lucky and was able to find a good chassis ground for the black wire on one of the floor bolts underneath the drawer in the kitchen right next to the detector! The yellow wire from goes to one of the white wires on the detector. I connected the two red wires to the one red and the other white wire from the detector for the other connection. Using wing connectors makes it easy to remove.
I also replaced the twin site sender IP5628S02537 on the tank from Gas Equipment Company Welcome to Gas Equipment Company, Inc. (http://www.gasequipment.com/home.html) It's 0-90 Ohms and is an exact replacement. It works perfect on the tank and with the Audit 860. My old one was cracked and needed replacement.
You'll have to enlarge the hole a little for the new one to fit. I also used winged wire nuts for the connections inside, About $250 for everything. They should be changed every 5 years and the Safe-T- Alert will give an end of life reading.
Jerry
This weekend I changed out the old Marshall 260 propane regulator for a Marshall MEGR 291 which I should have done when I replaced the propane detector. I didn't check the pressure before installing but all my gas appliances are working much better.
I'm not sure when the regulator should be changed ( I believe at least every 10 years ) but I know the furnaces are very sensitive to gas pressure. I have a one year old Atwood helium fridge and it was starting to take a few tries to light the burner. Now the proper gas pressure 11" WC comes up much quicker when the main valve is turned on and the fridge lights on the first attempt.
I had to remove one of the old fittings between the main valve and the old regulator to make room for the new larger regulator but was able to use the original bracket.
Crud just checked my original detector that was working last week, no go. But maybe fumes from Howard's feed and wax. Will try again tomorrow. If it fails is valve normally closed and has to be powered open?
I bought a leak down test kit 10 years ago when having furnace issues, since then I check propane pressure every couple years or when ever I've opened a propane line. It is not that hard to do. I connect at stove burner and see pressure and see it holds pressure. After it is important to test this connection with soapy water or leak detector.
The propane solenoid safety valve fails to the
closed position. It must be supplied proper voltage to
open. See post linked below:
LP circuits help please . (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=31715.msg280820#msg280820)
They taught us when doing the leak down test to check it to 11" WC, then turn the tank off and bleed the system down to 8" WC and see if it will hold there. I have seen some that you cant bleed down to 8 due to a bad shutoff valve.