I need to get a Trik-L-Start for my coach, getting tired of trying to remember to turn the boost switch on and off. My coach is kept at home and plugged in when not in use.
I noticed there are two sizes of Trik-L-Start, a 5 amp and a 15 amp. What would be the advantage over one or the other. Because time is not important when it is in operation, I am leaning toward the 5 amp unit.
Am I overlooking something obvious here, because my wife says I have done so in the past. I appreciate any input here from you that have used the Trik-L-Start. Thanks.
Don I just use the 5 amp one and it works great after two years ^.^d
I have had the 5 amp for 10 years, no starting problems. ^.^d
I used the 5 amp version. Can't see any need for 15 amp. You're not trying to charge the batteries, just maintain them. 5 amp has worked fine for us for 2 years. I mounted ours on one of the coach batteries, and connected the wires at the isolator panel.
Ours used to look like Chuck and Jennie's setup, but since I moved all that stuff to under the bed that's where the Trik-L-Start is, too. I'm too lazy to go look, but I think ours is the 5 amp. Works great.
Ditto on 5A. Works well for me.
We also recommend the 5-amp Trik-L-Start. But cost is not the reason for our choice. The 5-amp is their original of many years and uses diodes internally. It is simple and just works quite well. The 15-amp is much newer and uses a voltage circuit board and relay internally. Relay is closed when the house battery voltage climbs to a pre-set point and disconnects when voltage drops to a different pre-set point. Each has disadvantages, but many keep their start battery from being discharged with the diode unit.
Donald,
Ditto the 5 amp model experience:
We are going on sixteen years of use, first on a 2 + 2 battery, U270 system and then on a 3 + 3 battery, U320 system, all without issue , failure or need for more than what the 5 Amp Trik-L-Start provides. It maintains, not charges, and as long as you understand that, I see no reason to go to the 15 Amp design which is more complex and potentially less reliable.
HTH, Neal
Why go one way with a trik-l-start when you can go both with a true combiner like a yandina or blue-sea?
Because it's simple to install, it's inexpensive, and it does the job?
LSL Products TLS-OEM 5 Amp Starting Battery Charger (http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Ultra-Trik-L-Start-p/tls-oem.htm)
Blue Sea also is 3 wire installation, does the job, AND will charge the house batteries from the alternator when driving if your isolator goes south.Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems SI-ACR Automatc Charging Relay - 12/24V DC /... (http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Automatc-Charging/dp/B000OTIPDQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480741096&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+sea+system)
As is ALWAYS the case, I strongly encourage every member to do that which brings them the most happiness! :thumbsup:
Couple of years ago we bought the Blue Sea battery combiner, which uses a voltage sensing circuit to close relays that combine. Combining will allow current to flow from start to house and house to start. We found two problems. One is when we started engine when Blue Sea was combining, the high drain of the starter causes coach issues that were hard to diagnose, but problem went away when Blue Sea was disabled. The other issue was when the house battery was quite warm, like on a 90+ degree day, the battery charger would float at a voltage lower than the Blue Sea voltage sensing closing circuit, preventing combining, so house battery was not being charged. We switched to the $50 LSL diode combiner and all is well again. We also notified Blue Sea of our findings.
Forgive my ignorance if you can, but here comes a dumb question. IF the coach is plugged in, doesn't the onboard charger take care of charging the "house" batteries. And if the boost switch is on, the engine batteries also. What am I missing (without going too far into the weeds).
The inverter/charger will charge the house batteries if you are plugged in or the generator is running. If the boost switch is on the house batteries and the engine batteries are connected and they will both get charged. If the power fails then both barrey sets will get depleted.
A small charger as is being suggested will keep your engine batteries "maintained" when you are plugged in. Use the boost switch when you need all of the batteries to work together otherwise leave it off. Pretty inexpensive way to keep the start batteries changed and extend their lives.
The only issue I have with a small battery maintainer is that they just don't have enough amps to charge the batteries when needed. If the coach is unplugged for a few weeks, for example, 5 amps into three red tops will not (reasonably) recharge them. But they are way better than nothing and better than letting the coach inverter charge them through the boost switch.
If you want a bigger smart charger check out the charger options at Bay Marine Supply. Alan is a Forum Member.
Sterling ProCharge Ultra 20 Amp Boat Battery Charger | 0 (http://baymarinesupply.com/store/electrical/chargers-inverters/chargers/sterling-procharge-ultra-1220.html)
Not a dumb question. This is probably something every owner wonders about at one time or another.
Discussing use of the BOOST switch on this Forum, is like discussing religion or politics anywhere else - EVERYBODY has a STRONG opinion on the subject. (Of course, we don't discuss religion or politics on the Forum, but you get the analogy)
I tried typing "using boost to charge batteries" into the search box - got 3 pages of results. We (the Forum) have appearently been tossing this subject around since the very first days of the old Yahoo-based group. AND WE STILL HAVEN'T REACHED A CONSENSUS!
If you want to read some "heated" discussions, try doing your own search on this subject. ALL of the most knowledgeable and respected Forum members have, at one time or another, expressed their opinions on how to best utilize this simple switch.
Have fun!
The answer is that there are several "reasonable" ways to accomplish keeping both battery banks charged. No problem with differences of opinions in terms of "which is my preference".
Put me in the group that doesn't feel using a relay/solenoid to achieve this is the best way. Sure it will work IF everything is 100%, but over the years, have seen a number of failed boost solenoids. A failed boost solenoid could certainly lead to the deep discharge and destruction of hundreds of dollars worth of batteries. IMO, not reasonable with other, more reliable solutions.
The fact that the boost switch is on and illuminated does NOT necessarily mean that the boost solenoid is working. Can easily be confirmed with a digital voltmeter. With switch off, chassis and house battery banks should read different voltage. With boost on they should read exactly the same.
Thanks for all of your replies and links. I think I will go with the 5 amp Trik-L-Start to start with. I Like the simplicity and of course the price.
I had come to the same conclusion and mine is on order. Meantime using a plug in battery tender for chassis. Looks like it can be mounted next to chassis batteries while drawing power from isolator that is mounted above chassis batts.
I have had one for a few years and takes over(from solar panel) when sun not out. I have a question that maybe one of the other users can answer. With engine running does the indicator light flicker fast and when no alternator power ie engine off, does it stay steady. I noticed this on mine the other day and could not remember what it did previously.
Thanks
JohnH
My batteries are stored in the garage during the winter--cold out there. But I have my charger(s) on timers. They turn on for one hour a day--max, just enough to keep them at full charge. I do once a month check the battery output voltage--after hooking up an old tractor light for a couple minutes to "clean off the top of the battery charge".
Seems to work for me as my old 8D wet cell has lasted over five years now, even with the alternator going to pot two years ago.
Don't think I've ever looked at ours when the engine was running. We'll be driving tomorrow - I'll take a look and report back.
Meantime, I found the tech sheet linked below. One of the notes about 1/2 way down the page says:
"WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING? TRIK-L-START™ is effectively disconnected from both sets of batteries whenever the engine is running, and will not affect your alternator's normal operation."
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/UTLS_FAQs.html)
The answer is at the bottom of Chuck's link. It states that the green light blinks when engine is running.
Have found that while traveling the start battery problem is a moot point,if your running the coach every other day or so the batteries
stay charged.
Set-up with a Pulse De-sulfator type low voltage charger and BD12 Whizbang (which is also a de-sulfator) on each start battery (plugged in 24/7.) House Batteries are disconnected & get topped-off monthly...
Pulse De-sulfator goes on 2/3 times per hour for aprox 30 seconds and cycles when starting batteries drop to 13.4V from 14.2V.
This set-up works well & so will any number of combinations... pc