Foretravel Owners' Forum

Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: joeszeidel on December 04, 2016, 07:04:41 pm

Title: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 04, 2016, 07:04:41 pm
My original Dometic 7130 has stopped cooling. I have tried both Propane and elec. neither will get it to go. There is no smell. Are there things I can check and next what is the cheapest way to go if I have to replace. I would probably go residential based on what I have read on the forum. But can I do it with no battery changes and using existing electrical? Many on this forum have done great upgrades that go way beyond my needs. I would like to use the KISS method. [Keep it simple stupid]. I live in the leesburg fl area. Thanks.   
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: toyman on December 04, 2016, 07:12:15 pm
How do you use your coach ? What batteries do you have ?
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Mike Leary (RIP) on December 04, 2016, 07:13:47 pm
Unless it's something you've overlooked, like the card, see if Dometic makes a plug-in retro-fit. My experience ($$$) with Dometics, is , don't bother having it re-built. Get a fresh one, with warranty.  ^.^d
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 04, 2016, 07:23:54 pm
I have two large gel batteries and a 2000watt inverter. I dont full time and seldom dry camp.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on December 04, 2016, 07:46:44 pm
Joe, if you are like many of us and are connected to a land line much of the time most residential ref will work fine with out battery changes or electrical mods.  There are lots of size options.  A smaller residential refrigerator won't necessarily use less power.  Get the most efficient refrigerator you can for the size.  Ice makers use lots of power.  If you like to be off the grid then adding an extra battery or adding solar will help. 

Adding/adjusting cabinet space can be pricey depending on who does it so think that part through to make it as effective for you going forward.

Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Hans&Marjet on December 04, 2016, 07:48:37 pm
My original Dometic 7130 has stopped cooling. I have tried both Propane and elec. neither will get it to go. There is no smell. Are there things I can check and next what is the cheapest way to go if I have to replace. I would probably go residential based on what I have read on the forum. But can I do it with no battery changes and using existing electrical? Many on this forum have done great upgrades that go way beyond my needs. I would like to use the KISS method. [Keep it simple stupid]. I live in the leesburg fl area. Thanks.   
Joe..
Are you getting a "check" light on the eyebrow panel.?

Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 04, 2016, 08:22:10 pm
No the check light does not come on in either mode gas or elec.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: John Duld on December 04, 2016, 09:57:49 pm
Disconnect and reconnect the connection on the controll board.
Do you have a schematic ? You can check for voltage on the power pin in the connector.
Does the light come on inside the refrigerator when you open the door ?
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: kb0zke on December 04, 2016, 10:52:42 pm
Joe, if you are like many of us and are connected to a land line much of the time most residential ref will work fine with out battery changes or electrical mods.  There are lots of size options.  A smaller residential refrigerator won't necessarily use less power.  Get the most efficient refrigerator you can for the size.  Ice makers use lots of power.  If you like to be off the grid then adding an extra battery or adding solar will help. 

Adding/adjusting cabinet space can be pricey depending on who does it so think that part through to make it as effective for you going forward.


When we bought our coach we were told up front that the refrigerator was very iffy. When we got the coach home, a few weeks after we originally saw it, the refrigerator was definitely dead. We replaced it with a residential model. Our original plan was to get one that would fit in the original opening, with maybe some space on the side. Couldn't be done with a normal-sized refrigerator (a dorm room one would fit, but that's too small). We also required the new residential unit to be able to fit in through the door. I finally had to take out the cabinets under the old refrigerator in order for the new one to fit.

We lived with the new refrigerator just kind of tacked down as we decided whether we wanted it on the floor and a cabinet above or a cabinet below as the factory originally had. We thought we wanted the cabinet above, but when we got to Foretravel Larry suggested that we make it more like the original, so we did. Cost was about $3500 for that work (original estimate was less than $2000). Since then, we've had several people in our coach and we often tell them that some of the cabinet work was done in March, while the rest was done in 1993, and ask them to find the new work. So far no one has been able to spot the new work until we point it out.

We replaced the original battery chargers and inverter about the same time on the theory that newer equipment would be more efficient and the old stuff might be nearing the end of useful life. Didn't change the batteries or add solar. Haven't really done boondocking yet, but we've run on just the inverter and batteries for a few drive days without any ill effects.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on December 04, 2016, 10:59:49 pm
Here is a like to my install.  Did it all myself including the cabinetry.  Sold the LP refrig, it was limping along.  Got the refrig on sale.  Total net cost less than $1000.  Several have done it themselves with great outcomes.

Another Samsung installed (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22462.msg171187#msg171187)
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Gary Bouland (RIP) on December 05, 2016, 08:25:58 am
On many Dometic boards there is a small fuse.  Check by removing cover and use a meter to see if fuse is good.  When stored corrosion can form, on both the board connectors and the fuse contacts.  Also check valve and regulator on gas line to ensure that valve is open and regulator is operating.  You can see if you have gas at stove and that will tell you if you have a gas supply. Also confirm that you have 12 volts at the solenoid on the gas line to fridge.
Gary B
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 05, 2016, 09:20:26 am
Good morning everyone, first Roger nice install I wish you were here. John I do have a schematic and I will disconnect and reconnect the 12v at control board. Light bulb inside stopped working so I pulled bulb. Lever sw. for light was always sticking. Gary I have gas at stove and was able to light pilot for frig. I stopped at lowes and home depot. The least expensive frig. That come close to size is a magic chef in black and a Haier in stainless. Both in the $450.00 range. I believe I can get them through the front door by taking doors off. I will need to confirm that.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on December 05, 2016, 09:33:05 am
Getting the new refrig in is the easy part.  My Samsung weighed less than 1/2 of what the Dometic did.  I took the pass side window out and went that way.  Lot less risk of damaging the new refrigerator, pass chair, door or dash.  You can get a rubber gasket for the window from Xtreme to use when putting it back in.  Cleaning all the sealant off the window easily took as long as getting it out and back in.  I rented a material lift with forks for about $40 for a day.  It was a crank up thing  -  12' up and 400 lbs - made the job easy.

I also made a box on wheels the same height as the bottom of the LP  refrigerator so that it just slid straight out. Then we rolled it down by the window and got the box out from under it and on to the floor where we had some working room.  A much shorter box on wheels for the Samsung got it into position easily and it just slides into place.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: toyman on December 05, 2016, 10:36:02 am
Here is what I used to get my old one out of the hole, & new one in.

1500 lb. Capacity ATV/Motorcycle Lift (http://t.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html)

I put in the Haier 10.11' and have been more than happy with it. I'd say your equipment, & use profile would easily support the residential. PM me if you want more info.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: John Haygarth on December 05, 2016, 12:11:20 pm
JoeS, you by the sounds of it are putting in the one we have although ours is called "whirlpool". I brought it in via the door and was no problem. Neighbour gave me a hand to both bring it in and take the old Dometic 2 door our that way.. On the old one I did remove doors and some trims but it went out without a problem and no damage. Just heavy as all have noted.
Very happy with new one and is over 3 yrs old now. We boondock a lot and never a problem.
JohnH

John Haygarth's fridge and pantry upgrade (What did you do to your coach today) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15228.msg91112#msg91112)
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 05, 2016, 06:43:54 pm
Well here is how my exploration is going. I was leaning toward the Haier type 10.11 cu. ft. fridge and doing the removal and install myself like many of you have done. I then stoped at a rv repair shop in Fruitland Park Florida. The gentleman repairs appliances in rv's. He quoted me $720.00 cash to remove rebuild and reinstall my present Dometic. He will warranty all labor and parts for one year. I don't have to do a thing and I won't loose a thing. I know its risky on rebuild, but I will give it a try. Won't do it till after the Holidays.  If this works out down the road it may be an option for others.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: John Haygarth on December 05, 2016, 07:11:02 pm
   ---$720.00 cash----

That may cause a problem if it does not work out! get a written guarantee , signed with his business on it.
JohnH
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 05, 2016, 07:21:44 pm
You bet John I forgot to mention that he stated it will be in writing on his contract form. He is a small time guy who appears to have been in that location a long time. Its a gamble but I have dumber things in my life just ask my wife.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Chuck Pearson on December 05, 2016, 07:32:41 pm
---$720.00 cash--- hmmm.

I'd first ask him just what he is going to rebuild. It shouldn't be a secret.  Is he going to replace the entire cooling unit with a remanufactured?  That's the usual rebuild.  If so, what brand? 

Have you checked to see if your control board is functional?  A call to dinosaur electronics (well regarded manufacturer of replacement control boards) might be in order.  They have been very helpful with diagnosing problems, and their replacement boards are cheap.  Even if you buy a board and put it in, and it doesn't fix it, it will be usable for your water heater....or salable to other RV'rs. 

Definitely easier to repair than replace with home style.  Bear in mind that many of the folks who have gone to all electric refrigerators are very talented woodworkers and innovative problem solvers.  It is no small project to replace with residential, and get a finished appearance equal to what you have now. 

Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: kenhat on December 05, 2016, 08:50:37 pm
@Joe,

I'd check to be sure there is power at the outlet the fridge is plugged into. If you have lights on the panel switch it to electric, wait about 10 to 15 minutes and check the flu for any heat. There is an access panel on the side of the flu with insulation packed into it. Peel back the insulation until you find the electric heater. If it's putting out heat it's probably your coils are bad. If it's not putting out heat I'd bet it's the controller board. If it's the controller board go with the dinosaur board as others have mentioned. Easy DYI. If it's the coils you can DYI them but your guys offer at $750 sounds pretty good. Find out what coils he plans to use and let us know. I'd recommend the Amish coils if you can get them.

see ya
ken
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Ted & Karen on December 06, 2016, 01:19:20 pm
We had our cooling unit replaced with a remanufactured one in 2009- been working great since then.  I agree check on what brand the reman cooling unit is- it will go quicker if it is just a replacement with the reman. already there.  Also agree to replace the board with a Dinosaur while you are at it.  I paid $680 for the unit and install back in 2009, so your price sounds good.  I was able to use credit card for the business- fyi.

They had 2 guys working on ours and it was 2.5 hours from the time they started until they were done.

Hope this helps and you get yours fixed.

 ^.^d
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 06, 2016, 03:33:45 pm
Thank you all for those suggestions I dont have answers to your questions but I'll be asking them when he does it. Ted and Karen your prices are great most rv joints around here want 6 hours my guy is 4 hours. Its a gamble but I am a gambler. This wont be till after the holidays and I'll report what was done.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Miz Dani on December 06, 2016, 06:56:05 pm
Joe, if you have second thoughts about this, call Paul Yasbeck, he's right in Leesburg, 813-382-0869...everything he does is first rate, & when he does something, it is always done right.  He's done several fridges for FT folks in the area. Some residential, some marine, in coaches.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 07, 2016, 08:53:52 am
Good idea got a call in for Paul. He may know the guy since its local and he may have other sugedtions. Thanks Miz Dani
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: Hans&Marjet on December 07, 2016, 04:54:33 pm
Thank you all for those suggestions I dont have answers to your questions but I'll be asking them when he does it. Ted and Karen your prices are great most rv joints around here want 6 hours my guy is 4 hours. Its a gamble but I am a gambler. This wont be till after the holidays and I'll report what was done.
Joe....We had our cooling unit 7130 replaced by the Amish in Indiana. Been working great for the last 2 years, prior to that I replaced the board with a Dinosaur unit.

Hans

Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 11, 2016, 02:38:06 pm
Well I had some time on my hands today so I decided to research some more info on my frig. I found that there is an item called a thermister located on the cooling fin in the frig. So I first took compressed air and blew out the flue and made sure that it would ignite on both propane or 110v. then I increased cooling on the front control panel and then slid the thermister up on the cooling fin. And wala its working. I have it now plugged in and will monitor. This might have saved me some money and was a simple adjustment. 
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: wolfe10 on December 11, 2016, 04:34:00 pm
The thermistor adjustment will only change cooling a couple of degrees.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: joeszeidel on December 11, 2016, 05:14:21 pm
Brett if your correct and I am sure you are then I can only assume that my flue was full of rust which prevented the the frig from working.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: wolfe10 on December 11, 2016, 05:35:01 pm
Yes, cleaning the burner tube and flue can have a much more significant impact on cooling.

So, if the coolant has not leaked out (ammonia smell) there are some "tune-up" thing you can do rather inexpensively. One that is often neglected is to check propane PSI. If lower than 11 column inches of water, burner performance is reduced.  New propane regulators are under $30 and if still in good condition, many can be adjusted.
Title: Re: The old Refrigerator
Post by: John Haygarth on December 11, 2016, 06:24:09 pm
The other thing that I have found is that many do not give the burner area a regular check up. I have found piles of rust from vent under the burner and some inside the tube so much so that the right type of flame was not being achieved. Easy to take apart and blow out. The edges of metal flame grooves in time get " carboned up" and so the shape of flame is rough. Easy check and repair and does make the unit run correctly.
JohnH