It's been 3 weeks living in our 1997 U270 here in Huntsville and I still am not used to the coaches movement when one person moves around and the other is...say...sleeping. The coach site is level bricks and I wonder how best to live in the coach long term. Should I dump all the air from the bags and let it rest on the stops or is it better for the suspension and airbags to let the autolevel keep a moderate amount of air in the bags long term. Or...it has sat for 9 days now without the engine running and the air pressure is now about 25psi in each side....with the red light on the HWH panel off will it slowly settle onto the stops? This was not a issue on out trip across the US as we only spent a couple days stationary but now that we are not driving, potentially for months, what is the best practice. Sorry for the rookie question(s) but you gotta start somewhere!
If the site is level you can dump all the air out and turn off the the system. You just need to be sure the site is level.
John M.
Level is important. RV frig's don't like not level. Other than that, should not be a problem.
Rich
There are rubber blocks inside the airbags themselves that stop the bags compressed.
You may still feel some movement bottomed. Less but some. Maybe.
Some time ago, I asked on another thread about being able to keep the safety stands in place over the winter. I was assured that would not be a problem.
Since then, someone had a problem removing a safety stand because he could not raise the coach high enough. I forget the details, but he was able to raise it higher.
Now this talk of the airbags losing air after sitting has me thinking again (never a blessed event). The shape of a collapsed airbag is VERY different than a fully inflated bag. Since the top of the bag will no longer be snuggled up to its top curved plate, will that condition hinder the airbag from sealing long enough to fully expand?
If any of you understand what I am trying to describe, please try to respond. Especially if it will return my warm fuzzy feelings.
Thanks,
Trent
Trent, if the reason for sitting on stands over the winter is to take some load off the air bags (reduce air pressure) then maybe what you want to use is 8 4x4 blocks about 8" tall or what ever height is about normal ride height. Raise a bit, slip them in and then settle down to what is a normal ride height. Don't use fresh green treated posts, they are full of water and nasty chemicals. Regular fir will be much dryer and just as strong. Cut some 4" squares from some scrap vinyl flooring, one at each end of the post to isolate it from the frame members to prevent rust. Be sure to park on something solid and on something waterproof, more vinyl floor scraps.
And then relax. Keep thinking though, good exercise.
Trent,
I think you are talking about something similar to a tire not seating on the bead when you try to inflate it after being flat for a while.
I am not sure whether the air bags are mechanically attached to the top and bottom "curved cones" that are the top and bottom mounts or not. But I think I get the point of the question.
Len
Carl where it me I would cut me 8 4x4 blocks 6 or 8" tall and slide them in where the stops on the frame is, then dump the air, as others said. That way no weight is resting on any air bag components. Additionally if the coach needed to be moved and the bags would not inflate for some reason you could do so with no damage.
Trent, the bags are "crimped" top and bottom to give a very good seal so no worries about the seal opening up like the bead separating on a tyre/rim.
The suggestion by Roger to park the tyres on something other than concrete/gravel or blacktop is what I do when parking for more than a few days. It protects the materials that make them up. I use old Real Estate signs (corplast) cut up to suit. Airbags are very strong and resilient so do not worry about them at all.
JohnH
No, I need to get some work done under there during the Winter.
I joined the Air Force on Valentine's day in 1964. I weighed 135 pounds when I went to basic training in San Antonio. After eight weeks of basic training, I weighed 150 pounds. Those were the good old days. I weigh a whole lot more now, and need every inch I can get under the floor. Besides, I have eight of Harbor Freights best twelve inchers (with round chrome handles).
When I parked my Foretravel the last time, I raised the coach and measured the spacing at the front frames (near the airbags), and both measured nearly 13". Hopefully, the rear ones will also be over 12". Been waiting to winterize, but my home air compressor has gone tango uniform. Do any stores still have free air (to fill my 11 gallon tank)? Will check Sam's and Tractor Supply Co tomorrow. If that doesn't work, guess I'll crank my Cummins up and use my on-board air to fill my tank. (Why is it the good ol' days seem to be better and better?)
Are you trying to tell me my crushed rock pad is not solid enough for my Michelins?
Thanks,
Trent
John,
Would a single layer of corplast really hold up for several months between my 17 ton man cave and my crushed rock pad? Too bad I didn't think of that right after the elections!
Would pressure treated 2 x lumber be a problem? A couple of layers would give me even more ground clearance. (Still not a pit, but this is Oklahoma.) ;D
(Resonator is another possible project.)
Thanks,
Trent
If you are going to try to raise the coach with the 11 gallon air tank it won't happen. You will have to use the onboard compressor and raise up to get your safety stands in. Then fill your tank for whatever else you will need it for.
No, the tank is for blowing out the water lines (through a 30 psi regulator).
Trent
Trent, crushed rock is plenty sturdy. Michelin recommend that for longer term storage the coach should be on something flat and non-porous. If you want something really sturdy and one piece under your tires to gain an extra few inches try to find some LVL (laminated veneer lumber) cut offs. Home builders often have some. They are 1-7/8" thick and up to 17" wide. And they will be pretty much waterproof for at least the first season. Gravel has lots of pointy sharp edges.
I have been using Corplast for a few years on our crushed gravel 1" minus type for years. Yeh, they do not look pretty but still no holes in them. They are light and thin but strong and take up no room in basement.
Works for me
JohnH
John. Is corplast that plastic cardboard looking stuff ?
Of course, you can find it on Amazon
18" X 24" Coroplast Sign - 4mm - Blank White Plastic Sheet Board - 3 Pack:... (http://amazon.com/18-24-Coroplast-Sign-Plastic/dp/B00YG8W02S/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1481050637&sr=1-5&keywords=coroplast)
Or these from Flor... carpet tiles, waterproof backing, random tiles, $1 each, $12 ahipping for six.
Random Pattern Tile - Outlet - Carpet Tiles (http://www.flor.com/carpet-tiles/outlet/random-pattern-tile)