I changed the oil today and tried the remote start (key off & key on). It doesn't work. Also, I note a pull handle deal to the right of the remote start panel. It doesn't do anything either. Anyone know what it might be?
Also, I think this rig has the original fuel-water separator (second photo) which has a plunger on top of it. I know this is meant to push fuel after a filter change but what is the solenoid for indicated by the arrow? Thanks.
I gotta say I like changing oil on the 8.3. Only 5 gallons instead of 10!
jor
I have the same primer pump but use the non glass/plastic water traps at bottom.
Could the solenoid be for the remote start and is not working? Take it off and take it apart if after testing it it does not pass power (12v) from one side to other. Simple job. Did you pull that switch with red light out to see if it started then??
JohnH
Now there's an idea! I'll give it a try. I'll do some checking, cleaning, investigating and figure it out. I've had remote starts on my other rigs but none had the pull deal and all worked fine. I'll post whenever I get it figured out. Thanks.
jor
Hi Guys,
I found my remote start panel switch terrminals were corroded - so cleaning and tightening solved the problem.
Jim
Figured out what the pull handle and light is for (photo). It powers the solenoid which is mounted next to the primary fuel filter. When pulled, the red light goes on and the solenoid bonks. The old solenoid was a rusty mess and was not working. The new one works great. I'll probably never use it but nice to know I have a little heater in there.
Tried to clean up the start and stop switches. The start fell apart and the rest is rusted solid. I need to figure out if I can buy the switches or maybe the whole panel from Foretravel.
jor
Take the switches to NAPA for match ups.
The FT shipping may be the deal breaker there.
Got the remote start panel done. Everything works now. I bought the start and stop switches from Foretravel @ $21 each. Got the light at NAPA (not available at Foretravel). The other stuff just needed to be cleaned up. It took me two weeks of almost daily penetrating oil to get the original switches out of the panel. It was like they were welded on!
For future reference:
START: Wires #23 & 21
STOP: Wires 86 & 61
LIGHT: Forgot to get the number. It's a white wire from the loom to the light. The black wire from the oil light goes to the hot on the Start switch. Probably can get it off the schematic.
Also, in the wire bundle coming back there is an extra wire, #E0. You won't see this one unless you open up the loom. I'll include a photo.
jor
Congrats, great job.
Thanks for sharing.
Carter-
Really excellent explanation and photos. I am in the same boat and as soon as it warms a bit, going to do the same thing. I have already put a box for everything down on the right side by the hydraulic reservoir so I don't have any wiring up in the middle. Like your wiring codes too.
Pierce
Are you saying that the remote front (second picture) and the remote back (first and third pictures) are all the same piece of metal?
What the heck did you use to clean the back of that panel? ^.^d
Trent
No secret method. Cleaned the front and back initially with Super Clean (really great non-petroleum cleaner from Ace) and then a wire brush on the back.
jor
Got to be careful with Super Clean. I had bought a gallon of concentrated Super Clean. My son when he was around 10 (now 35) was going to help me clean the travel trailer we had. He sprayed the trailer with the concentrated Super Clean. It did a great job, took the paint and the strips right off along with the crude.
That must have been the SUPER Clean! Here's how I got onto this product. I was at Foretravel and I noticed a couple of their guys cleaning the roof on a rig. It was very dirty, almost mossy in appearance. Anyhow, I asked them what they were using and they came up with this stuff. I use it frequently. Lots of great products out there nowadays.
jor