Last question for tonite: the most forward overhead light fixture in my 97 U320 is a fluorescent 2 bulb fixture. We have been unable to turn it on. We replaced one of the 2 bulbs with anither we assume to be new, no luck. Is this fixture tied into another overhead fixture? If not then we are at a loss as to where the switch is for this light. Also will the fixture light if only one bulb is good?
Thanks in advance for yalls help.
Have you tried the switch on the forward end of the cabinet over the copilot' chair?
Do you have electricity at the fixture, could it be the ballast...
Woudnt know how to check electricity at the ballast.
Turn on all the light switches you can find and see what happens
Pick up a digital volt ohm meter, about 15-20 bucks, learn to use it, and save $10,000 or more in future repairs, tows, etc. Lots of information out on the internet, but maybe a basic electrical course is prudent. No offense intended. Cause your motor coach is a city on wheels. Basic electrical knowledge can probably solve 90% of any electrical issues. For the most part, sparkies are not rocket scientists. Diagnosis all starts at the meter.
That is the correct answer.
Trent
Both bulbs need to be good.
Try two known to be good bulbs before spending a lot of money.
Swap them with a working fixture.
First thing should be get a test light and see if you have 12 volts to the fixture. When I had fixtures stop working I would just change it out to LED. My guess is ballast is dead
Good answer. If 12 VDC to the fixture and new bulbs did not turn on, it is a ballast. They can be replaced, or you can convert to LED's. Assume this is a "Thinlite" fixture.
My suggestion is to NOT convert only one of many-- its light will be different than the rest (color and intensity).
When my coach was new to me I thought my front light fixture was not working until someone told me that the light switch was on the front of the overhead cabinet above the stairwell. I never would have thought to look there and went through the whole routine of checking voltage to the fixture and spending energy thinking about what the problem could be in getting power to the fixture. I was shocked to see it was my mistake about where the switch is located.
Great minds must think alike, as I was thinking much the same. thanks.
I have not been able to Find another fixture that uses the same bulbs- 18" flourescents IIRC. But I did go buy a few of them and tried two brand new bulbs, just in case both had to be good for the fixture to work. No luck. But it's worth knowing both must work, thanks.
Takes an 18" fluorescent. I thought that meant the fixture was AC. In any case there are either 3 or 4 other fixtures in the galley area that also take fluorescents, though different bulbs. IIRC there is also at least one fluorescent fixture in the head.
That is the bulb number? Brand?
There are some "good" brands of these bulbs, and some "we made copies of these bulbs".
Brett you are correct the fixture is the thin-lite. I tried two brand new bulbs, GE F15 T8 Garage and Basement, to no avail.
Identify the correct ballast, then google it for best price: http://www.thinlite.com/
Half an hour labor and a hand full of butt connectors and you are back in business.
Michael,
I was almost exactly where you are last year at this time. I decided to learn the basics and used Dan Sullivan's work to do so. Here is a YouTube link for his book. Don't let the mechanic part intimidate you as it starts very basic. It is so practical that I purchased the work cards and watched the videos you will see if you go to the link. It also contains an excellent section on using a voltmeter.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7TQGrWZmvRs
Bought a meter, watched some you tube and put the probes on what i take to be the metal contacts in the fixture. Zip zero nada. Of course that is literally rhe first time i have ever used a meter and perhaps i should try on a battery or something to see what happens. Yea.
Make sure that you have voltage going TO the ballast (primary side) the contacts where the lamps plug in are on the load side (secondary side) If you have voltage at the ballast AND two new lamps the you can be reasonably sure the ballast is bad.
There is a chance that a wire has pulled loose from a socket or possibly a bad socket (try a new ballast, if not you can always use it as a spare)
Also make sure you match the lamps with the ballast, use proper type lamp for that particular ballast. There should be a label on the ballast indicating the type, size and number of lamps that it can operate.
I dont see where to check voltage to the ballast, so im assuming i remove the fixture? Heres anpic of my fixture installed.
Squeeze the center cover on the sides and it will come off
Yea the pic i posted is of the fixture with the defuser cover removed.
Hello, like someone else posted the switch (for mine) is on the cabinet nearest the door by the AC switch. I would recommend if you are having problems with the bulbs/ballast and have figured out how to turn on/off that you consider switching to led. I have put in led strips after removal of the ballast and so far have been happy. You can get 5 meters of Led off eBay for less than 10 dollars delivered. Then it is just a matter of putting in 4-6 strips of the leds, soldering them to the + and - (in correct polarity) and you will probably not have to mess with them again. They also require less electricity to put out same light. Just my thoughts. I have changed pretty much all of my incandesent and flourescent lights out to LEDs and am pleased. Best of travels.
The white center piece in your picture will come out by squeezing it also
Craneman is correct....... center metal cover must be removed to expose the ballast, in the same way as the plastic lens
You do not need to remove the fixture to do this
Here is what the ballast looks like in that Thin-Lite model (after you remove the center metal cover). You can easily see where the two power leads (the clipped wires) attach to the circuit board.
If you decide you want to convert that fixture to LED, here is a thread with some photos and ideas (scroll down to Reply #7):
Another (Interior) LED Project (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=29593.msg251712#msg251712)
Pulled off that metal cover and tried to take a reading from the power leads where they are attached to circuit board. Not sure i had enough naked wire exposed but i did get a very small reading, .04 and jumping around a little. But when i turned off the light switch the meter drops to 0. Turn the switch back on and back to .04. I thought it should be 12V but then i dont know much, and it may be that there was not enough exposed wire to get a good reading. In any caee it would appear that i am getting power to the ballast but no powerr from the ballast. So bad ballast, right?
As long as you replaced both bulbs with el cheapo made in China by GE (the only ones available here) and no light, then it is your ballast, which generally don't go out. That being said, my neighbor with his Wanderlodge had one of his banks just go out, had him get fresh bulbs, nope. We pulled the fixture and could see where one of the wires on the ballast had fried. He's going on line, but we did talk about LED replacement, also. Good luck. ^.^d
No, you need to verify that you do have 12 VDC to the ballast. .04 DVC means either a bad reading, or something is wrong with the wiring. You should have a butt connector between house wire and fixture. insert a pin or other small metal object and get an accurate reading.
Which I did on my friend's coach, we had 12VDC to the ballast. I'd find someone who is familiar with a VOM, no offense. ^.^d
Be sure your meter is set for DC Volts, like maybe 20 Vdc setting. The reading you got sounds like the meter might have been on AC Volts.
It was set on 20V DC. Double checked it. .04 V
Ok. Dont see a butt connector so perhaps i will have to drop the fixture.
Remove the white section in the center by squeezing it together, the ballast is under it.
If you are SURE that you are getting a good connection (reading) with the meter and it's only reading .04 V ......
Then check the voltage at the switch. Both to and from (line / load)
Would be best to verify that you have a good ground connection for your meter.
The voltage may be there and you have lost (or at least a poor) ground connection.
Since the meter and checking a circuit is new to you, as you suggested above, were you able to check a known working circuit with the meter so you know what that looks like on your meter. Not saying that the ballast isn't faulty but you need to have faith in your meter and settings.
Good luck,
Darrel