I have a question regarding oil change. Can one pump out the oil through the fill tube instead of draining through the drain plug? What say you about this idea.
John M.
While you could do it, I would not recommend it. You will get more and a faster drain using the drain plug. Raise back of coach by driving rear tires up on 2X's and/or use the leveling to raise the back. If the latter, block the frame.
Slide a Rubbermade tub (that is what I use) lined with two black trash bags under the drain and remove the plug. After replacing the plug and filling the engine with new oil, I use an old coffee can and funnel to put the old oil into the new jugs, then back into the case and back to Walmart of free recyling. Using the trash bags, have never gotten the Rubbermade tub dirty with oil.
I use a small automotive drainpan to catch the first bit of oil after removing the drainplug, then shove a piece of 3/4 heater hose in connected to a pump that fills 5 gallon buckets. My pump is an old hydraulic gear pump off a box compactor. No longer capable of 3000psi, it happily moves 3gpm of motor oil all day long. Used this same trick for atf and rear end cluid changes. Helps to have a second person monitoring the bucket to avoid overflows.
I bought a nifty oil change pan at Tractor Supply. It easily holds the oil contents of our 8.3, but I don't know about your big block.
Product Recommendation: Oil Change Pan (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22790.msg174873#msg174873)
Chuck, I like that pan. I have a Tractor Supply by me. Question, on your second photo on the link what is the white thing sticking up?
Thanks, John M.
John,
You need to remember that your engine will have quite a bit more oil than that pan will hold. So have a plan. You will have close to 40 qts.
On a side note that white thing appears to be his old oil filter.
Pamela & Mike
Mike, How many gallons are we talking about? This is a first for me.
John M.
10 gallons
John,
Before we installed our "no drip drain plug system" we found an old sewer cart, doony cart, honey wagon or what ever you want to call one and a big funnel that will fit in the big fitting. They are low profile and have wheels. Once you have the oil changed then you can just roll it out of the way and dump into your empty oil jugs so they can go to the recycler. You are dealing with about 10 gal.
Pamela & Mike
Had mine done in Yuma oil and filters inc generator and full chassis lube Rotella T, $225.00 with my filters, 275.00 with his filters (Baldwin) very good guy retired Heavy Equ mech. Just didn't figure I could mess with it for that.
I just use 5 gallon buckets. Or slightly shorter buckets if 5gal won't fit.
Sounds like a good idea! Something like this, with 11 gallon capacity, would work nicely for the big engine:
Tote-N-Stor Portable Wastewater Tank TLS684: easy to roll! - New Pig (http://www.newpig.com/tote-n-stor-portable-wastewater-tank/p/TLS684?couponCode=PLAHOODIE&pcampaign=google_pla&pmedium=cpc&gclid=CL_whbuHm9ECFZm1wAodhCAJ1A)
I bought one from Napa we used them in the shop in the patch and they work for oil and old coolant. ^.^d
Lucky me. I live a Class A Motorhome Community and I found a Tote-N-Stor at the dumpster someone pitched. I guess they didn't need it anymore. Very clean and hardly used. Checked for leaks and it ok. Thanks for the idea Chuck!
John M
That is the best cap.
Now you need to find a short female end section of hose (about a foot) so you can control the pour when you fill the empty oil jugs with old oil.
Pamela & Mike
If you are going to change your own oil. Next time your at Home Depot get one of these or something close.
Grip-Rite 3/8 in. x 10 in. Galvanized Spike Nails-10HGSPKE - The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-3-8-in-x-10-in-Galvanized-Spike-Nails-10HGSPKE/100187580)
Use it to punch a hole in the bottom your oil filter so it will drain out then when you loosen the filter it won't run all down your arm.
I found a large, old, old phillips head screwdriver that is one piece right thru the handle so I can pound on it with a hammer, and has wood pieces riveted on the shaped handle end sides to make a nice grip for my hand. The wood is shaped and loose. The phillips end was shot so I ground it to a sharp point.
I cut an old worn out tennis ball in half, poked/melted a hole in the bottom center of the half with a hot nail, then slid it onto the screwdriver with the open end of the ball up--to stop oil from running down the shaft. The ball is--what else?? >:D ^.^d , Shoo Goo'd in place!!
Now I just place the point up against the bottom center of the filter and tap the end of the screwdriver enough to open a hole.
I do like the idea of using a tote for a drain pit, but I intend to use a funnel shaped with straight sides to hold an oil filter for draining after removal from the engine.
Oh, i made a wood frame to hold the two filled new oil filters upright so I can slide them under the coach without spilling..Works great!
Because the oil filters have a convex end so they won't stand up by themselves I took two pieces of 1/2" plywood about 5" wide x 12" long, hole sawed holes a "hair" bigger than the filter diameters--just in the top piece. I then screwed the solid piece onto the 3-1/2" edge of a 2x4 x 5" long and the holed piece on the opposite side of the 2x4. (all scrap wood, but recycled deck screws---I am frugal)
I set the empty filters in the wood fixture and then fill them with fresh oil, lube the threads and rubber gaskets, and then slip a plastic bag over the top to prevent dirt from getting on the filters.
The wood fixture is just tall enough to hold my two quart oil filters so I can slide them under the coach and not spill.
I forgot to mention in above posts that I slip a plastic bag (small, narrow ones) onto the filters once I "crack" them loose from the threads on the engine. This helps me keep any residual oil left off my hands and the floor. After the filter is off I can, if I want to because I think the oil is pretty much out of the filter, just close the bag up for disposal.
A caution here. Some engine manufacturers IN WRITING recommend against pre-filling oil filters, as that oil will not be filtered before going into the engine. And a member of the Diesel RV Owners Club who is a retired petroleum engineer seconded the suggestion-- to not assume that there are zero particles in brand new oil.
Remember, on start up, particularly if you have just had the engine off for the time it takes to do the oil and filter change, the engine surfaces are lubed by the oil already on them. And the 2-3 seconds it takes for the oil pump to fill the filter is a non issue.
BUT, if psychologically you can NOT install one dry, block the center hole (the outlet) and fill only the small outer holes (the inlets). Slower, but safer.
During my first oil change, I installed a drain valve that allows me to control the flow of the oil. It even has a nipple that I can attach a clear hose to. I can shut it off while shifting to the second oil pan. It is also useful for taking samples for testing. I used this on my safari. The T-203N is used for the ISM.
Amazon.com: Fumoto T-203N Engine Oil Drain Valve: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-T-203N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VKXWT2)
If you only change oil after the engine is warm, it drains better and there is residual oil on the surfaces of cylinders and bearings. No need to pre- fill filter. There was an oil company ad years ago where they drained the oil out of a car and ran a lap at a race track then checked the engine for wear and said there was none.
Yup, and that oil company could afford a new engine a whole lot better than I could!
I've changed my oil with the engine(s) hot since 1960, and prefilled the oil filter or filters ever since.
Only once did I have a problem with oil and that was on my 1957 Chev convert with a 301 engine I built to a high compression engine with chrome molley rings. #8 piston rings didn't "seat" so I sprayed some Bon Ami sink cleaner in the spark plug hole and then changed oil & filter after 100 miles. Never used any oil after that, and engine compression was even thru all eight cylinders.
Guess I have just been lucky doing it my way. The old saying that cleanliness is next to godliness is true. ??? ???
Some of the small G3306 and older Cats will hammer like a banshee if you do not fill the filter with oil,the hammering noise
coming from the valve train not getting oil.
These are pics. 2 months after removing the engine. Look at the oil still hanging on the wrist pin and con rod.
A very well built motor, Merlin 4 bolt main block, ARP rod and and main bolts, cant tell what you used for a 3 inch crank, probably a Hank The Crank, a very high end engine, we built our street motors with a 327 block and a steel 283 truck crank, pink rods and ARP bolts. this brings back a lot of memories.
4 1/4 Billet crank internally balanced 540 cu.
Am currently using 4.5 x 4.6 598 cu. in. Dart block with the good parts inside.
327 and 283 isn't that a 302z?
I like the dart blocks however out of our 3 BBC engines the dart water block is 40 lbs heavier.
On the subject of oil pressure after servicing you could install an accusump. Basically a tank with valves that you have open when engine running then close it before you shut off to hold pressure in tank and then just before you start the engine you open the valve to pressurize the oil galleys.
Edited for poor autocorrect
I thought about putting one of those accumulators in my flat bottom to supply oil for when the boat temporally would jump and cause the sump to lack oil.
Yes Toby a 4x3 Chevy is 301.59 Cid, we were building these in 62-66 before Chevy came out with DZ302 in late 66 early 67, as kids it helped to have a Chevy parts manager that would sell us blocks that were to be junked because of a spun bearing.