Symptoms:
Driving south on i57 good warm heat from front so much I turned it down a bit
13.6v all is well 68mph
10minutes from i40 turn off to little rock, heater not so warm so I turned it up
Got to i40.. blowing cold.. hmmm I'm thinking thermostat.. look at temp Guage 200, 225.....250
On i40.. Road construction next 8 miles, 10 miles to rest stop.. 20 mph so when I could I turned off engine
Got to a TA .... no one would look at it... so I look serpentine belt is melted to alternator won't turn... idle turns water pump turns... hmmm maybe not tHermosa some bubbeling fRom overflow recovery tank.. went to bobbys repair... no work on motorhomes...
Then over the south side of i40 in a small blue building DRD truck repair.. he looks says I can have it rebuilt and have you on the road tomarrow morning.. check out coolant too.
Oh you can stay in our lot....
QUESTIONS
Did I damage engine at 250+
Alternator... scary stories-read here, what to look for?
They labeled the disconnected wires
Any thougis it 180 ampts?
John 573 979 5242
John,
Sorry about the bad luck. At least you are parked in a safe spot. I'm no expert, but I'm guessing no permanent damage from the high coolant temps. From my Forum reading, the mechanical 8.3 is a very sturdy engine, and can endure a lot of abuse.
I believe rebuilding your alternator is actually the best solution, because then it will still have the correct terminals on the back and no chance of hooking it back up incorrectly. Only question is the qualification of the rebuilder? Rebuilding alternators is not rocket science, but does require some basic tech knowledge, and the proper parts.
I guess you'll just have to "eyeball" the guy, and go with your gut. If he gives you a warm fuzzy feeling, tell him to do his thing.
Let us know the outcome!
Chuck.. I feel like I'm at my uncles shop... I'm failure with the place in Memphis rebuilding.
Oh and I had a gates belt in stock...
8-12 minutes 250+ 30 degrees outside
Had the bearings fall out of our alternator three years ago while on I-80 just entering Iowa. Had it rebuilt but they missed an intermittent short or open in the rotor so had to have another one installed down the road. Inter intermittent problems are the pits. Happy with it now.
John,
How long did you drive it with the engine overheated? A very short time and probably no big deal but driving it miles can cause fatal engine damage.
I have lost belts three times and the DDEC on the Detroit went into 30 second shut down mode each time. I immediately pulled off and shut it down. I never noticed the temp gauge until it happened. With a rear engine, more can go on back there without being noticed, especially with the side radiator. There is an override switch but using it risks damage. Parent bore or dry sleeve engines will tolerate overheating better than wet liner engines with seals toward the top and bottom of the wet liner. Sometimes the damage will not be apparent for quite a while. Perhaps a trip to Cummins to discuss the event can ease your mind.
Have your alternator rebuilt locally.
Pierce
No engine shut down here...
Now I'm wondering if the temp Guage is not working...
QUESTION
Should the bolts be tourqed... or is impact ok?
What brand/model alternator do you have?
Are you still in the Little Rock area?
My first choice would be to contact the alternator manufacturer for the name of their recommended alternator rebuilder in your area.
Still in the dark about how long/miles you drove the coach after you noticed the temp gauge??
If mechanical engine, you won't have a computer shut down. Electronic Cummins may or may not have a warning built in.
Should which bolts be torqued??? Cylinder head or alternator bolts??? Impact??
Pierce
Brett, it's a Lee's nevel.. RICKY WHITE has used the rebuild er in Memphis for 20 years.
Completed work about 10am.. topped off coolant, made sure it was the right kind..
They polished up the cables.. tightened up and sprayed sealer.
$1002.55
4 Hours labor @ 100per running back and forth to memphis..
Pierce.. 8-15 minutes total time, engine didn't even smell hot. Alternator bolts. They used an impact to take the bracket of and to tighten but a torque wrench at 95#
GOOD PLACE BUT ABOUT 200- 300 MORE THAN I EXPECTED
The rebuilt was 355
We're in texarkana, tx headed to lbj and Bush library and Museum
Special thanks to JOHN DUAL from San Antonio that called me within 15 minute of my post...
Say if fast and it doesn't hurt as much. :D Glad you are quickly back on the road.
Pierce
I am proactive on alternator and generator rebuilds.
Twenty five hundred hours I had the alternator rebuilt. Volts were down.
One diode bad and both bearings.
Easier at home
Typical alternator rebuild replacing bearings/brushes and bead blasting/painting pulleys is a little under $100 here. A little more including diodes. Does pay to pull it off and have it done after 2000-2500 hrs. Same for the starter if used in a cold climate.
Watched the belt tensioner video (attached to a post) a little while ago. Think it was on a CAT. A bit of hesitation when engine was cranked. Something amiss in the starting system. Good to keep alternator/starter in good order.
Before a long trip, good to loosen alt belts and spin the alternator. Should spin freely without catching anywhere and without a "dry" sound. Pretty easy to see trouble coming. Replace cracked belts always in pairs if so fitted.
Pierce
If you haven't lost your antifreeze your engine should okay. Doesn't your engine have an overheat warning light if it doesn't have one
put one in. My engine overheat warning light was disconnected by the previous owner and I hooked it up and it would come on every once and a while so I put 225 degree one in instead of the 220 that was in there. Every thing good now.
John has the same model coach and same engine as I do. We (both) have a mechanical temp gauge on the dash, and a "Water Temp" warning light in the row of idiot lights at the top of the instrument panel. I've never seen my warning light come on, and truthfully I don't believe I've ever read anywhere at what temp it would (should) illuminate. I guess that would be a good thing to know! Any ideas?
Ummmm, yes it came on.... sit it down as soon as I could got off the road... 1-3 min... stayed 5min then off again..
Voltage used to be 13.2- 13.6 when charging
NOW 12.8-13.4.... IS THAT AN ISSUE.... but house at 13.2 after driving for 4 Hours engine at 12.5, both agm
John,
While driving, voltage on your dash voltmeter should be 14 or higher. Where are you reading the voltage? Your chassis (start) batteries should be fully charged (12.7 or better) after driving 4 hours. It sounds like something is not right... Are you sure all the wires were reconnected properly?
John,
After driving and then stopping for dinner for an hour, check voltages with a multimeter at the batteries. Dash analog voltmeter is just ballpark. Yes, after four hours, voltage at the engine battery should be 12.7 after a waiting period. Good to check voltage with the engine running at batteries also. Suggest a cigarette lighter digital voltmeter to monitor while driving. Dash lighter location is engine, side panel is house. Try NAPA, Autozone, O'Reilly's for digital plugin voltmeter. I like to compare digital readings at battery and then cigarette lighter plug.
Pierce
Look at the sender at the engine. It may have the temp stamped on the side. Might have to remove and ground the wire with someone watching the light to identify which sender it is.
P
As far as I could "see" yes back in the same place as before.
House and engine both read the same at the dash. Engine battery is 11 yrs old
House is 6months...
All readings are plug in volt meters.. the vdo chassis meter was between 12 and 14
Sounds like I need to make a stop at uncle whites garage on the way back..
Oh will it b ok if I wait till after Q
Did exactly what Pierce said and found a "dry bearing" last year,needed a whole shaft and rotor,much cheaper and easier when
the repair is on your time frame.
John,if your going to "Q" they will have plug in voltmeters there.I upgraded my radio to a audiophile grade pioneer and it has a
built in voltmeter.