Couple of years ago Jack wrote "After a recent cold spell inn Houston I noticed a water leak that appears to be coming from ..." (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=20726.msg151943#msg151943)
After the water pump was installed, Jack experienced a stop engine, fault code and there was possibly an "air lock issue"
"I installed a new water pump (old water pump was leaking) and tensioner. Did not realize it would be that easy .... A few seconds later a "stop engine .... / More than likely there is an air lock " (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=20885.msg153674#msg153674)
Well same story here after few days of under 25 degrees freezing around Fort Worth, TX I have the same problem. Our 2003 FT 295 with Cummins ISL 400 has a small water pump leak. I had my coach at my friend's place for a couple of days and when we were getting ready to leave this evening, I started it, ran it for a bit and after it built enough air and was ready to go .... I had to do something, walked out and as I was going around the back, on a very nice and clean concrete surface I noticed the small wet spot.
I opened the engine door and it was enough to see the red colored coolant around the water pump. I shut the engine and decided to leave it as it is, where it is on my friend's driveway.
So now what to do, how easy is this job? Is it as easy as replacing an alternator? I did that last year, no problem. I just need few tips and tricks information please for how to replace the water pump, or should i get her down to Cummins shop?
Thank you,
AL
Does not sound serious to me if just a small puddle. Drive it and keep an eye of fluid level. It may stop or get worse but as long as you check it every hour or so and do a top up if needed why not go home with it or to a Cummins Dealer as you mention.???
JohnH
The water pump on the Cummins C and L are very easy to access and replace.
From your PM to me, you know about this write-up: ***Changing Coolant-- A Step By Step Description*** (http://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,6653.0.html)
You decide if this is within your skill set and interest level.
Brett
Brett,
Where possible, I try to do most reactive work myself that are rated at up to 7 (difficulty scale 1 easy to 10 difficult). I considered the Alternator replacement I had to do last year at exaggerated difficulty level of 3, just because i lost a nut and had to look for it for an hour :-(
I have chosen to pay for things that are rated at 5 and higher and most of the time it makes me feel very stupid :-)
For now I just need to replace the water pump. The coolant was flushed and replaced in Feb of 2016 by Industrial Power in Fort Worth.
So if I understand it so far I just need to remove the serpentine belt as i did for Alternator replacement, 3 bots that hold the water pump in place to remove and revers the process to install it back in.
Before i do this I need to drain the coolant by doing "Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain cock. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. "
--- Anyone know if a 2003 U295 (ISL 400) has a coolant drain cock?
"IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out."
--Anyone know if a 2003 U295 (ISL 400) has a hose set up to bleed air out of the coolant system?
-- Anyone know where can i find the Torque specs for the 3 bolts that hold in the water pump?
-- Am i a missing something?
Thank you for your help,
AL
According to the repair manual I found on Cummins QuickServe Online, the torque for the water pump bolts on my 8.3 is:
24 n.m. [212 in-lb]
Don't know if the same for your engine, but I'm guessing it is...
If you are not signed up at QuickServe Online, you are missing out on some invaluable reference materials!
It is free, and all you need is your engine serial number.
Cummins QuickServe Online (https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html)
Chuck,
Thank you. I am signed up at QuickServe Online but for some reason I struggle with finding information specific to my ISL 400. I can find parts. I need to spend time on there some more. Cummins service guy just told me 20 FT.LB but i am not sure if he really knows it, I need to find a doc.
Thank you,
AL
Al,
Since you are not flushing the cooling system, leave the heater off. Just drain enough coolant that you are not leaking coolant into your work space where the water pump is.
Use a clean catch container, and even then a good idea to strain the coolant through a coffee filter before pouring back in engine.
Look for a small diameter hose from thermostat housing to reservoir-- that would automatically bleed air from the top of the head/thermostat housing.
Al,
24 n.m. [212 in-lb] converts to 17.7 ft-lb., so service guy is in the same ballpark.
If you have your engine serial number entered on QuickServe, then everything you see is specific to your engine. Just click the "Service" tab at the top of the home page, and it will display a whole list of manuals for your engine. Pick the one that looks most helpful. At the top of the list for my engine was the "C Series Troubleshooting and Repair Manual", where I found complete procedure for changing out water pump.
Yup I was doing all that while you were helping/typing this to me :-) THANK YOU!
I found it in (ISC, ISCe, QSC8.3, ISL, ISLe3, ISLe4 and QSL9 Troubleshooting and Repair Manual) and it is showing same as yours (Torque Value: 24 n.m [212 in-lb] )
I have the water pump ordered and should have it late this afternoon from Cummins. I hope to deal with it some time this week/weekend.
Thank you,
AL
One more question. I was wondering about something. Extended Life Coolant Antifreeze: "Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. So for a cooling system with 20 gallons capacity, add 10 gallons of Coolant CONCENTRATE (plus 1/2 overflow container capacity). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture"
Do we do this to save money? What if there was more than 50% of the Extended Life Coolant Antifreeze and less distilled water in the system. Would that be more corrosive or on the contrary be more protective, especial for freezing temperature days?
Also is it ok to mix two different brands of the (RED) Extended Life Coolant Antifreeze?
If i don't remember what brand was used last year and now I have to add some.
Thank you,
AL
Al,
I would NOT mix brands of coolant. It MAY work, or it may be a problem.
Suggest you look up your receipt or call the place that did the work-- it WILL be on the invoice.
No problem with pre-dilute for just topping up which is what you are doing. The concentrate is needed if you are doing a complete flush and have distilled water in the hose from engine to and from heater core as well as the heater core itself.