I have just bought a 1998 U295 with a mechanical 8.3 that had a fire in the engine compartment. I am making a new wiring harness and need new connectors. Only the top wiring loom and components on the forward firewall are damaged. Any suggestions?
Check with the factory?
They do not have a harness, and said the last one they had built was $8,000 +. Salvage yards (Business/Colaw) will not sell the harness, as they consider it part of the engine even though most of the engines they sell are replacing failed engines with complete harness already. Go figure! Truck yards will only sell harnesses from returned cores, which never have the wiring.
Those waterproof connectors are available at auto supply places. I bought all the bits in Phx last year but found a shop at home that had complete units you just add the wiring, nice and simple and mate up with originals.
JohnH
I think they are a GM used item.
There's only a few wires, you can make your own. It's just starter, shutdown, and gauges. The intake heater has it's own separate harness, and you can buy one from SBmarine if it's the same (he yanks them off his engines). I'm going to yank the two off my boat engine (it's still on my RV though).
You really don't need it (it probably doesn't work anyway), but if you want the air heater, call him up and see if it will fit.
Air Heater Assemblies - Seaboard Marine (http://www.sbmar.com/product-category/engine-components/air-heater-assemblies/)
Have you tried
visone.com
They seem to have many Foretravel parts.
Carter Langford
Nacogdoches, Texas
Visone will not sell the harness. I will try to find the connectors at local shops. Thanks for all the help.
Weather Pack Terminals Seals Connectors Splices | Weatherpack | Sealed... (http://www.weatherpack.com/)
Metri-Pack Housing Locks Terminals Seals | Metripack Terminals | Metripack... (http://www.whiteproducts.com/metri-pack.shtml)
Not sure what you are looking for. Wiring diagram, function, wire size?? Every engine is not wired the same as the intake heater was optional. Our C8.3-325 only has two electrical circuits, one for intake heater that controls 12-volt heater and fuel injector solenoid, using a thermostat. Heater controls are on firewall & heater is in intake manifold. The other which must be standard is a simple fuel shut off 3-wire solenoid on rear curb side of engine energized by starter wiring and ignition wiring.
I am starting from scratch and will be assembling a new harness from just forward of the engine box. I only have the wiring diagram that has the identifying numbers, but not the gauge of the wiring. I am guessing that the solenoid on the forward bulkhead is for the manifold heater, but that is the only identifiable component. The fire was minor, but the heat from the shorted wires was significant. I have separated the harness, but all that is left is the remaining copper. More complete diagrams and a picture or discription of the bulkhead mounted components would be helpful. I am not a complete novice, have repowered two diesel boats, and build racecars from scratch. With this said knowledge help is always welcome and appreciated!
Caliper the burnt wire for the gauge, and maybe go up one gauge to prevent reoccurring issue. Or buy a big spool of the largest gauge at bulk price, but lose color coding. Visone would not sell for what reason? Maybe sweeten the pot and gain the connectors. IDK.
The 99' ISC 8.3 is an electronic, so not the same harness but the stuff on that forward bulkhead is probably mostly the same. Off the top of my head, there are 3 Cole Hersey ignition type solenoids. One is for the remote engine start, one is the boost solenoid, and I think one is the starter solenoid. There are also several smaller plastic Bosch relays, and the battery isolator. I am going to be redoing that whole panel, but I haven't yet reasearched all the components. There are other items and it varies from year to year. I am sure others will add to the list. There are quite a few pictures on the forum which have been posted on various battery isolator topics as well.
Don
Visone cuts the engine harness when removing engines, and consider them part of the engine. Begging.did not work!
I will cut my wiring a few feet forward of the engine compartment to determine the wiring size. Hard to do but the best repair option. The harness on the engine had been replaced shortly before this incident because of a similar event. It was determined that the first fire started when power wire shorted on the intercooler tube. This repeat appears to be a similar event on the exhaust. The first repair used the wrong size wire and the harness was not secured properly. I will number the wires in the harness to match the original wiring if I can borrow a labeler.
Racedad:
If I was you, I would try to locate another '98 Foretravel with same engine setup. Get with the owner and ask to look at their engine compartment. Take a bunch of photos. Would give you a much better ideas of how to proceed.
Your profile says you are located in Colorado. We have a number of members in that area. Check the member map to see if anyone is close that could help you. Click on their name on the map, go to their profile page, send them a PM to explain your situation. Worst that can happen is they say "Sorry, can't help".
http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=GoogleMap
I am a bit confused to what engine you have. In 1998, Foretravel was transitioning from the 'mechanical' C8.3 to the computerized version of the similar engine now called ISC8.3. Major differences are in engine wiring. Do you know for sure you have the mechanical engine, if so there are the two electrical components mentioned earlier.
Do these attachments help?
Thanks Barry, those drawings for the manifold heater are very helpful. The controller was damaged and all of the wiring burned off. This makes the wiring easy.
The coach is a 1998, but has the mechanical engine. No computer to wire.
Glad the wiring diagrams are a help.
Attached are a few more intake manifold heater pages:
I sent you a PM. I'll email you the wiring diagrams I have (includes intake heater....which I'd remove because it's pretty useless and nobody really knows if it works LOL).
Edit: I need to look at my RV engine (1998 u270) and see if it has the "burn the fuel" intake heater, or the "hot element grid heater" type that my boat has.
Krush, Could you please send us your engine wiring diagrams, too?
Thanks,
Barry & Cindy
Foretraveler at gmail.com
I checked out my RV engine today. It has the system Barry gave the drawings for (injectors fuel into glow plugs). However, it does not work, at all. The solenoid powering the glowplugs does not close, no power goes to them. The dash light "do not start" turns on ~30 seconds and turns off. It likely has worked since I bought the RV and I have no plans to fix it--the engine starts instantly even in 20 degree temps without block heater (if possible, I run the block heater when below 30-40).
I'll email the other drawings for the marine system once I find them on my laptop.
Does anyone have the following schematics?
B-2126
A-4752
Here is B-2126, I don't seem to have A-4752...
Don
A-4752 for a 2001. Don has a post where his picture shows a aux start solenoid. This drawing shows a relay. Michelle (a couple posts later) is correct. Sometimes changes are minor, somethings pretty significant.
Thanks, the project is slowly moving ahead. I put shore power on the coach yesterday, and that system is working. Inverter appears to be OK. Just needs more dollars, parts and the most difficult, time.
Note that there can be a difference in these drawings depending on model year. Probably nothing significant from late 90's to early 2000's, but B-2126 for 2003 is different than the one Don posted (note the CN - his drawing applies starting with coach 5409 so will likely is different that that for coaches with earlier build numbers).
Very interesting Michelle! I failed to notice that... the dates on the drawing are 3/27/92 and 6/22/98. Our coach was built in July of 98' as a 1999 model, and the build number is 5402. The drawing came with our coach docs and does seem to correspond with what I have found, though given the high degree of individuality I have seen in coaches of the same model and vintage, I don't take it for granted that all the details are correct.
Don
The drawing provided by Don appears to be correct for my build.
I have removed all of the damaged wiring and have started on the new engine harness. Does anyone know what the OEM part numbers are for the dash air high and low pressure switches?
Standard R134a open on high pressure and open on low pressure. Take them out to find replacements. Under each is a valve core (like tire stems) that close when switch is removed to prevent refrigerant leak.
Unfortunately the part numbers were on the plastic that melted. Thanks for the information. Wayne
Almost ready to start the engine, but need to know where the water temperature and high temp senders are on the engine. Oil pressure sender appears to be coach passenger side mid block, with two look alike senders forward and aft from there. Without removing and heating them they are a mistery. Help!
The water coolant sensor on our ISC 350 is above the starter at a pipe tee pretty much level with head top in case yours is same.
JohnH
John, thanks for the info. My coach was a custom order with mechanical 8.3 and all of the sender's are mounted directly into the block on the side opposite the starter. Factory wiring diagrams label the Foretravel wiring but none of the I'd numbers for Cummins or Allison supplied wiring. I will resort to trial and error.
Without engine running, but ignition on, momentarily ground sender wire to see gauge needle movement.
The temperature sender for the gage on my C8.3 is mid block on the driver side below the exhaust manifold. I don't know where the other senders are.
Unscrew the sender's enough that some fluid starts running out, Barry's idea to ground it if you have a helper should give a slight movement.
I know which wires go to each gauge, but not which sender is a high temp switch, and which is the gauge sender. I think I now have them identified. The high temp switch should be open when cold as is the temperature gauge sender. The temperature sender appears to have a minimal resistance. The problem with the oil pressure sender appears to be that it was damaged when shorted, and now has no resistance. Will try to identify the part number and replace it tomorrow. Thanks again for the suggestions.
Good catch, high temp sender and any other safety sender is most likely either open or closed. I would think the oil pressure would be a industry wide sender to interface industry wide gauges. But could be wrong. Kinda like a 10k ohm world wide universal temp sensor.
Does anyone have drawing numbers A-4845 and A-6190. Almost ready to drive the coach. Still have some electrical issues but slowly finding them. Engine runs! AC electrical finished. Will try to get some help tomorrow so I can determine what breakers still have shorts. Takes someone to turn the key while I am in the cargo bay.